A few facts:
1988 CRX Si

Car had been running fine, but suddenly started to give me a problem starting. Sometimes, it would fire right up, then a few hours later, nothing. I diagnosed the typical troublespots and here is what I found:

I am getting a code 15 (Ignition Output Signal) from the ECU. No spark at the plugs or at the distributor cap. I checked the coil and igniter with my ohm meter and voltage meter and it all seems fine. I replaced the cap. Rotor is fine. Any ideas on where to look next? Thanks.

 

do you get a click when you turn the key to start or nothign at all? Have you tried to tap the starter lightly w/ a hammer/stick to see if it would catch as you try to turn it over, if that's the problem.....

Just an idea, right off the top of my head.. Let us know..

 

The motor turns over so the problem is not at the atarter. I am not getting spark. The main relay is doing it's job so the problem, I believe, is somewhere in the ignition system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drmadness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you get a click when you turn the key to start or nothign at all? Have you tried to tap the starter lightly w/ a hammer/stick to see if it would catch as you try to turn it over, if that's the problem.....

Just an idea, right off the top of my head.. Let us know..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would he need to tap on the starter? he didnt say anything about the starter not working.

Do you have any other friends with ef's? If so just try of of their distributors

 

I am getting nowhere. I replaced the ignitor - still no spark. So the coil seems to be good, the ignitor is good, what else would cause me to not have spark?

 

I would try another coil, seems good and knowing it's good is two different things. Usually, no spark situations are due to faulty ignitors or coils. However, a bad sensor within the distributor may also be a culprit. Like it was suggested, try another known good distributor.

 

Check ECU fuse, its a 15amp one in the underhood fusebox.

 

How are your connections on the ignitor/coil? Are they clean and tight?

 

ECU fuse if good, connections on igniter and coil are fine. New ignitor did not help and coil test shows it to be good. I am stumped!

 

ttp - any ideas???

 

CHeck your grounds- you never know

try swapping out your dizzy for a known good one.

Swap out main relay for a known good one.

 

Disconnect the 2 wire connector from the dizzy. Turn the key to the #2 position. Got 12V from blu to ground? Got 12V from blk/yel to ground? What were your primary/secondary resistance readings from the coil?

 

I checked the two wire connector at the dizzy and it was fine - read just at 11 volts. Continuity was good from all wires in the dizzy (coil, ignitor, 2P connection). Ohm readings on the coil were about 12,000 at the secondary side. At the primary side, it was very difficult to read because my meter has a calibration wheel on it and the slightest movement shifts the reading from 0 to 1.5 ohms. I checked a brand new coil and it read the same on the primary side. I know the coil is fairly new, but not sure I can get a very accurate reading in the low range of my ohm meter.

 

I did some more checking of the wiring and this is what I found. I probed the blue wire going to the ignitor and grounded it with my ohm meter and the needle barely moved. I also did the same with the white wire on the ignitor (mine is not white, it looks to be yellow/blue) and it read the same - very little continuity. I then began suspecting a poor ground somewhere. I disconnected the 2P connector at the dizzy and probed the blue wire and grounded it - same thing, very little movement on the ohm meter. Does this sound like a poor ground to you? If so, where should I trace this back to? I checked the ground on the thermostat housing and it is on very tight. Looks like it hasn't been off in years. Thanks again

 

Did you check the ground that goes from the tranny to the chassis?

 

No- not familiar with that one - if the ground at the chassis was weak, would that cause the no spark situation?

 

yes if its bad enough, but so could a bad main relay ...

 

Grounds Cuz some funny ****. last time i was having Eletrical problemd i Complety replaced my main body ground and added a few more. Plus a bigger ground was added to the transmission. Problems went away.

So just remove each one and clean/inspect them. Oh and check the plugs on your harness to, make sure they go together tight and arent broken. Thats everytrhing i can thing of. good luck

 

OK, here we go. On Sunday afternoon, I pulled all the connectors on the harness apart, including the connections at the ECU. Put everything back together. I am still using the same igniter and coil. The car started right up and ran fine all day Sunday and Monday. Tuesday morning, won't start again...it seems like this happens primarily in the cooler temperatures of the morning. What do I look for?

 

what about the other thing in the dizzy. I think its called the icm. That is the part that was bad on my gsr dizzy.

Josh

 

I believe you are reffering to the ignition control module or igniter. I put a brand new one in and it still woulnd't spark.

 

dose your dizzy cap seal all the way could be moist inside if not, my car was having the same problems changed the dizzy ran like new, try swaping the dizzy out for another one and try that out if you need one i have a few, let me know hope to help fix your troubles man

 

The cap is new and it is tight fitting. Thanks for the offer on the dizzy. I believe my problem is related to the main relay. It always seems to start when the temp. outside warms up. I am going to change the main relay and see if that fixes things.