http://www.texastrailerman.com/new9.htm

For the "regular" price he'll add 4 swivel D-rings, 1 electric brake axle, break away kit with battery, and radial tires (instead of bias). I'm thinking of a 20' for $2,495. A little pricey, but appears to be well built, and with a few options in the standard package.

I have some questions for those of you who have been using trailers for some time, though.

Those side steps in front of and behind the fenders. Would those be useful, or is it more of a gimmick?

He wants $200 to add ATP to the ramps to make them solid on the top. Sound high, or about right?

Finally, I like the split tail option, but again, I'm wondering if it's really useful or more of a gimmick.

I'd love to get an enclosed trailer, but cost is a bit of a hinderance since I'm about to get hammered with the cost of some Koni shocks and a full cage.

Thanks!

 

not sure what you're putting on there, but i'm guessing a smaller compact car. i really don't think you need the 20'. i have an 18' and i think it's the perfect size. i have plenty of room in front and behind my miata if i wanted to add a tire rack or toolbox or whatever.

i'm also partial to wood decks and not steel. i don't know why really, i just like them better.

in the end i think it's overpriced. while the little diamond plate runner steps are kinda cool, i don't think you really need them. i don't even know what the point of the split tail is for. solid ramps aren't needed either i don't think. the swivel D-rings are probably worth getting though. maybe i got a helluva deal, but i bought my 18' with DUAL AXLE electric brakes, radial tires, break away kit with battery, and wood deck for $2050. the only thing i wish i had were the D-Rings instead of the stake pockets.

 

Side steps and the split tail are nice to have but not necessary. If you can afford them I would but you could certainly survive without them.

The only thing strange is in the picture with the ramps it doesn't look like they are level with the top of the flatbed. You could run the risk of catching the front lip depending on your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those side steps in front of and behind the fenders. Would those be useful, or is it more of a gimmick? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on construction - if they're just the diamond plate, it's for show - if they have some steel underneath, then they might support some weight.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally, I like the split tail option, but again, I'm wondering if it's really useful or more of a gimmick.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not really sure what this gets you - less weight?

Prices have gone crazy over the last year due to steel prices. The price seems reasonable for what appears to be a nice trailer. I'd push for dual axle braking. Does that price include tax/tags?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not really sure what this gets you - less weight?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Access to the underside of the car should you need to fix or adjust something and you don't have the necessary jack stands etc...

 

Yes, according to the person I talked to, the split tail gives access to the underside of the car for whatever reason. Strapping the car on, or whatever else you might need the additional clearance for.

Good point on the ramps. I didn't see that, and now that I look at it, I don't see the usual u-channel on the end of the trailer that captures the ramps.

I'm planning to pay for an additional electric brake axle. It's $135, so I don't see the point in skipping it.

Wood deck vs. steel: I've been going back and forth on this as well. The other trailer I'm considering is an H&H MX Speedloader, which has a wood deck standard. How do they mount D-rings in the wood? Maybe the bolt to the underlying frame? H&H says they can't do flush D-rings with the wood bed, you have to upgrade to steel for that.

Thanks for all the comments/suggestions, it's greatly appreciated!

 

I had an open-deck trailer. Attempted working on the car while on the trailer a few times. More hassle that it was worth - eventually gave up that practice and resigned myself to unloading the car anytime I wanted to do something underneath. So, if the split tail is an at-cost option, I'd just as soon skip it.

Also, full decking is more useful for toting other random stuff (furniture, etc).

Flush D-rings are nice, particularly on the back side of the trailer (easier to roll car over them when engine is not on).

Wood vs metal. I'd imagine wood is more maintenance and quite possibly heavier (depending on thickness). Not to mention splinters - ouch. Can't think of a good reason to get it over metal.

 

I think $2500 is a bit much for an open trailer, but if it's local and convenient, it might be worth the cost to buy new. Don't forget to add in tax and registration to your total cost.

I paid $2100 for an open deck, new, dual axcel electric brakes, and a hitch, etc., and I feel like I paid too much. Also ask about, I think their called "bearing buddies" or something. Makes lubing the wheel bearings easier.

I've seen some decent deals on this site:
http://www.racingjunk.com/exec...age=1

Everything from brandy new closed trailers to back-of-the-barn rust buckets... If you have the patients to weed through the ads, you might find a gem. I saw a couple enclosed trailers, 20' for under 4K. You might also find some other manufacturers that advertise open trailers for less $$$.

Good luck with your search.

 

What's the weight of that, looks kinda heavy, is your tow vehicle up to pulling that and your car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the weight of that, looks kinda heavy, is your tow vehicle up to pulling that and your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My thought exactly. A 20' steel deck trailer is not light, why put the extra strain on your tow vehicle for no reason?

 

Tow vehicle is going to be important as this is not going to be light.

My trailer is pretty similar to that but 18 ft. steel diamond plate and no split rear tail and a bit less flashy. It is definately not light already and I am adding a tool box very much like their optional listed Racer Box except with a large hatch top and steel lid for a work bench or standing platform and otherwise aluminum sheet sides. My V8 Exploder has a 7,000 lb load rating and I think this rig with a CRX is about all I'm really going to want to pull with it. I

I got the 18ft specifically so I could do the box and still have 15 1/2 feet of open deck. If you don't plan a big box on the nose or plan to carry a long vehicle (CRX cover 12 1/2 ft. exactly), then save some weight and add easier movement by getting something a bit shorter. Unless you plan to carry a big Lincoln or have a big box on the nose, 20 ft. is quite long.

 

i think wood deck is less maintenance than steel. i've got an H&H like you mention, and the wood on there is gauranteed forever, i never have to touch it. steel on the other hand, when that black paint chips off you'll start to get rust spots and want to paint over it again.

as far as the D rings go, they'd just put them on the outer frame of the trailer for a wood deck instead of flush mounted on the deck itself. actually, i bet you could flush mount them on the outer frame if you wanted. if you can weld, all you really need is a couple of half circles of steel rod and weld them to the fugger.

 

As mentioned above, I would skip the open section in the rear since this will make it more difficult to load other, narrower items.

I like the steel decks better than wood since I believe the steel will a) weigh less and b) not wear out as quickly as the steel although the steel will rust if chipped or used in the salty areas..

The deck height looks somewhat high and definitely do the brakes on both axles option.

 

I swear I have seen a Aluminum Trailer for that price, you may want to do a search on the internet because thats little to much. all see if I can find a link or info on the aluminum trailer

 

I looked at a friend's 18 ft. trailer this weekend. Plenty of space. For some reason, I thought it was a 20 ft. 18 ft. is what I'll buy.

As for the weight, I'll have to ask them (they manufacture the trailer in-house). It doesn't appear any heavier than the Big-Tex trailers that I've seen, other than the side steps.

If you can find an aluminum trailer for that price (and close to Texas, I can't drive to Maine to save $1000 on a trailer!) please let me know! Most of the ones I've seen easily run $4,500. I was looking at Trailer World, ATC, and the like. Aluminum would be great, but the price is very high.

I'm not looking for the absolute cheapest trailer I can find. I need something that will last. :bigthumb:

As for the tow vehicle, it's currently a Tahoe, but we're buying a Titan within a few months.