I'm installing my Hondata s100 tomorrow along with some other goodies, and remembered reading a post saying some kind of vaccuum line or sensor had to be disconnected. If I remembered correctly, can someone let me know what this was/is? Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm installing my Hondata s100 tomorrow along with some other goodies, and remembered reading a post saying some kind of vaccuum line or sensor had to be disconnected. If I remembered correctly, can someone let me know what this was/is? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure I'm following you. The S100 board needs to be installed on the 4-pin connector on the ECU. Obviously the ATMEL 29C256 chip needs to be buned and installed also.

 

Yeah I know, the chip is already installed in a P72 ECU. My concern is that I believe I've read a post or posts where guys were getting a CEL or were having some kind of peoblem with the Hondata because a stock sensor interfers with it, thus the stock sensor needs to be disconnected. I believe George Knighton mentioned something about it in one fo the posts, comes to mind anyway.

 

I have the s2oo and have nothing happen that you are talking about?

 

I wish I could find the post I read. sigh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wish I could find the post I read. sigh</TD></TR></TABLE>


keep searching man you'll find it.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=879749


Hope thats what you are looking for....

 

That was indeed it. Thanks man. Should I go ahead and unplug it or do only some people have problems?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That was indeed it. Thanks man. Should I go ahead and unplug it or do only some people have problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the tuner knows what they are doing you won't have any CEL's. Why don't you install everything and see if you have any problems before you start unplugging sensors.

BTW... if you unplug the EVAP the might run into issues from excessive pressure in the fuel tank.

 

Thanks, I wasn't sure what caused the CEL. The car is going to be tuned next weekend at AR Fabrications in Winchester, VA, and I've heard nothing but good things about them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks, I wasn't sure what caused the CEL. The car is going to be tuned next weekend at AR Fabrications in Winchester, VA, and I've heard nothing but good things about them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good deal. If you've got problems after tuning please post back. Would be glad to help out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If the tuner knows what they are doing you won't have any CEL's. Why don't you install everything and see if you have any problems before you start unplugging sensors.

BTW... if you unplug the EVAP the might run into issues from excessive pressure in the fuel tank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please explain - excessive pressure in the fuel tank....

I have an s200 / p28 combo that I am installing in my R this spring. I was under the impression if the EVAP is not unplugged you will run into starting issues with the car regardless if it is tuned or not. Someone I know has the same setup as me, running a s200 / p28 last year, had it dyno tuned twice, however, when the EVAP was plugged in the car would have trouble starting (I say 20 % of the time) With the EVAP unplugged, the car is fine.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaVAGE00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Please explain - excessive pressure in the fuel tank....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fuel system is a sealed system. In the fuel tank gasoline evaporates and there is an increase in pressure as a result... changes in temperature can also lead to higher tank pressures. The EVAP system provides a means to collect these vapors and then recycles them into the combustion process. If you unplug the EVAP the system can not purge these vapors (pressure).

 

yeah I had the exact same problem with starting. When the EVAP was hooked up the car was getting fed the signal from OBDII and since the Hondata switched to OBDI there was no way to control it. I unplugged it and the car started perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I had the exact same problem with starting. When the EVAP was hooked up the car was getting fed the signal from OBDII and since the Hondata switched to OBDI there was no way to control it. I unplugged it and the car started perfectly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the case... so now my car will start, but my tank may explode... great

 

Can someone else shed some additional light on this topic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaVAGE00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can someone else shed some additional light on this topic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure that the starting process should not be affected by the EVAP system. In both OBDI and OBDII manuals the system is not activated unless the coolant temp is above 158 degress F.

There are differences between the OBDII and OBDI systems. The OBDII has some additional components, however the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve functions the same way in both.

An OBDII car with an OBDI ecu should have no problem with the EVAP system. The only thing that "might" be a problem is what they call the "EVAP Can Shut Valve". All it does is allow fresh air into the charcol canister after the coolant temp is above 158degrees and the RPM is above 3000. If I follow the manual correctly it should be open if there is no signal from the ECU - which would be the case if you've got an OBDI ECU in the car. If anything try disconnecting that... but again it should have nothing to do with the start-up cycle.

 

i think clayton's assessment is correct..

&lt;-- just put his hondata s200 in recently and tuned.. no problems starting for now and I didn't unplug anything except the ECU..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't unplug anything except the ECU..</TD></TR></TABLE>

How did your car start without the ECU plugged in

 

If j00 want to disconnect the EVAP selenoid control then j00 should also unplug the fuel line going to the charcoal cylinder (the line going to/coming from the fuel tank) that way the tank is vented directly to the atmosphere.

disclaimer: do at j00r own risk, for offroad use only, blah blah blah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How did your car start without the ECU plugged in </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i plugged the new one back in!