Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find my Helms since shortly after the move. I'd like to hunt down how to bypass or eliminate the need to press the clutch pedal before starting the car ('94 DX). Does anyone have a detailed method for doing this?

 

I did my a week after getting my caR from the dealer...
Look under the dash at the clutch pedal and find the wires connected... use your head and I think I looped one or cut one.. been a long time since I looked under there,

 

I believe all you would have to do is short the wires going into the clutch switch, under the dash.

If your car has cruise control, there will be 2 switches, one at the top (to turn cruise off when you hit the clutch) and one at the bottom of travel (to complete the starter circuit). That is the one you want to bypass/short.

If you want the trick to be "reversable" (where you don't have stand on your head to solider wires together, and where you can just cut a tie wrap to get it back), you might be able to tie wrap the switch closed.

Adrian

 

Easier than you think. You want to retain the factory switch as it also works to limit pedal travel. To by pass the switch function, take one of those insulated conectors that crimp on with pliers. They are the kind that has two groves with a plastic cover that clicks in place. One groove runs all the way thru. The other only allows the end of the wire to attach to the connector. Just cut out the 'stop' on groove two & attach to the wires.

I have no idea if that babble made sense....

 

Made sense to me.

My worthless post count for tonight: 5

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easier than you think. You want to retain the factory switch as it also works to limit pedal travel. To by pass the switch function, take one of those insulated conectors that crimp on with pliers. They are the kind that has two groves with a plastic cover that clicks in place. One groove runs all the way thru. The other only allows the end of the wire to attach to the connector. Just cut out the 'stop' on groove two & attach to the wires.

I have no idea if that babble made sense....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know the things you're talking about. I think it is actually called a "splice." I used those to do my trailer wiring on the 4Runner and it made it a breeze.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easier than you think. You want to retain the factory switch as it also works to limit pedal travel. To by pass the switch function, take one of those insulated connectors that crimp on with pliers. They are the kind that has two groves with a plastic cover that clicks in place. One groove runs all the way thru. The other only allows the end of the wire to attach to the connector. Just cut out the 'stop' on groove two & attach to the wires.

I have no idea if that babble made sense....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Scotch clip.

Easy as pie John. Look up under the dash towards the pivot point of the clutch pedal. There is a switch....when the clutch is depressed it grounds a relay that is over by your main relay (drivers side kick panel)....once that circuit is complete the car will start. So all you need to do is cut either one of the wires that plug into the switch and scotch clip them or even just twist them together.

Whatever way you do it is fine....just permanently complete that circuit.

 

Cool. I'll have a look this weekend.

 

Just out of the sheerest curiosity, john or anyone else, is there a reason why one would want to be able to start their car without the clutch engaged, I mean other than the obvious, just being able to reach in and turn over the car without having to climb in? I just can't think of a reason why it would be absolutely necessary.

Unless it's some sort of trick to standing starts:

1. Put car in 1st gear with engine off on grid.
2. Key in the ignition, in the accessory mode when ready.
3. Depress the accelarator all the way to the floor.
4. Key ignition at the wave of the Green Flag, utilizing the power of the starter motor to add a few extra HP to your standing start.
5. Leapfrog half the pack, due to poor qualifying, because you can't use this start motor method to decrease your qualifying lap times.
6. Win the race!!
7. Replace your starter motor after every race weekend.

Only theory I could come up with.

 

here's another one:
car runs out of gas and stops 50 ft from start/finish line. Use starter motor to finish the race.

Another one:

clutch cable breaks while on grid. put car in gear and use starter motor to get moving.

 

this wont mess up the car doing this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just out of the sheerest curiosity, john or anyone else, is there a reason why one would want to be able to start their car without the clutch engaged, I mean other than the obvious, just being able to reach in and turn over the car without having to climb in? I just can't think of a reason why it would be absolutely necessary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Eliminates the need to get in the car or swing the leg over the doors bars when starting the car for morning warmup.

Rick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turfer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Eliminates the need to get in the car or swing the leg over the doors bars when starting the car for morning warmup.

Rick</TD></TR></TABLE>

I make it a habit of insuring my racecar will start, before climbing in. Luckily almost all of my Hondas are old enough to lack the clutch interlock.

It also saves climbing back out of the car if I forgot to turn the kill switch back on...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turfer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Eliminates the need to get in the car or swing the leg over the doors bars when starting the car for morning warmup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactaly. My door bars are pretty high, so I either have to get all the way in, or use the long jack handle to push the pedal down while I lean in to turn the key. Getting tired of that.

 

Sounds like a good idea, though. My legs are shorter, so my seat sits a bit further forward, and it is somewhat of a pain to get in, just to fire it up. I think I'll do this, too.

A friend of mine had a remote starter on his 97 teg, and twice, once when I borrowed it, and once when another friend borrowed it, we weren't used to putting the car in neutral after stopping somewhere. When getting back to the car, and using the remote start before disarming the alarm, the car would start creeping forward. The fit of panic trying to disarm the alarm to get in and pop the clutch was, in retrospect, hysterical.

 

To everyone be careful with this idea. As a former tech. I had to hold a guys busted knee because he got pinned between his work bench and a Montero that the clutch switch was over ridden. I am not saying it was just the clutch switch fault, the other tech. starting the car should've put the clutch in and made sure it was out of gear. I know it is a pain but be careful. As former tech. I never leave a car in gear unless I have too and always check to see if the car is in gear.
One other option I did was get rid of the key ignition on. I put a toggle "on" switch and a push start button just to the left of the steering wheel on the dash. All I have to do is straddle the cage, push in the clutch(with my right foot), toggle "on", push "start". Of course before that check to make sure it is out of gear.
(I really hate to sound like a mother hen, and I really do like to overide things)

 

A friend has a formula ford that was nicknamed "Biter" due to it's ability to start in gear and take off. Ever see someone try to catch a formula car and reach in far enough to shut it off without being run over? Having no switch on a car with no parking brake can cause issues if the car was stopped on an uneven surface, since leaving it in gear may be the only way to keep it from rolling without getting out and chocking the wheels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JAMES "A" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(I really hate to sound like a mother hen, and I really do like to overide things) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I really thought you would tell us to always be sure not to wrap the entire exhaust system in flammable materials.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turfer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really thought you would tell us to always be sure not to wrap the entire exhaust system in flammable materials. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I remember that weekend. Who's on fire, #5 or #8?

 

I don't know what you are talking about. I personally didn't see any fire.
It was all a conspiracy. You new I was "on" and was getting pole position. Just another
scheme to through me off my game. Touche, so you got me.

PS. at least I never had my exhaust drop down. No no i did.
at least I never forgot the hood pins. No no i did.
at least I never went half-way around the track before I realized my helmet strap wasn't strapped. No no, damn-it.
PS2. It was flame resistant, just not that flame resistant.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turfer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Eliminates the need to get in the car or swing the leg over the doors bars when starting the car for morning warmup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I use half my jack handle to depress the clutch...

James are sure you weren't trying one of those Hillbilly tin-foil dinner recipies you heat up on the exhaust? I remember you walking over to the trash bin carrying that smoldering mess! Very funny!

 

Another benefit of this is you don't load the thrust bearing when it doesn't have any oil lubricating it.
This should result in longer bottom end life.

 

Don't do it! If you do, your car won't pass state inspection!

VA Tech gets in my street car and starts the car in 1st gear, clutch out. *sigh*

At the end of the inspection,

Tech: "I really shouldn't pass you when your clutch interlock is malfunctioning..."
maxq: "Know why it's malfunctioning? It never came with one!"
Tech: "Oh, no. They would have never imported it without one."
maxq: "I've had two of these. Neither one had a clutch interlock switch."
Tech: "No, no. They have to have one to come here."
mad maxq: "How long ago was this requirement? This is a '94."
Tech: "I had a '69 Torino that had one."
mad maxq crosses his arms and thinks, "You're a ******* idiot!". I say nothing and stare him down.

Tech: "Well, I'm going to pass you this year but get it fixed for next year because we're going to start cracking down."

mad maxq comes home and looks up "clutch" the VA inspection code. The ONE mention of the WORD clutch in the code has to due with holding against the parking brake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bulldog_RS20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use half my jack handle to depress the clutch...</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Spec Miata guys use those for straightening fenders, too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do it! If you do, your car won't pass state inspection!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not an issue, really. Car's not street legal, or registered anyways.