Slotted rotors
I'm in the market for some slotted rotors. Is there any cheap ones out there (under $250 a pair shipped)?
I could only find crossdrilled + slotted rotors from Brembos.
Endless 24-slit rotors are a bit too expensive.
I know AP has some slotted ones for ITR at around that price but I can't find them on the web. Anyone here carries those? Or similar products?
Thanks!
I could only find crossdrilled + slotted rotors from Brembos.
Endless 24-slit rotors are a bit too expensive.
I know AP has some slotted ones for ITR at around that price but I can't find them on the web. Anyone here carries those? Or similar products?
Thanks!
Try fastbrakes

I sent them an email a minute ago. Hope I would hear something from them soon. Thanks!
I think you can get Brembo blanks from http://www.collettimotorsports.com for like $32/ea or something like that.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
I agree with Warren. I ran powerslots and couldn't wait for the day to take those fuggers off to use some good rotors instead.
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Just get regular rotors. Slotted doesn't help.
But you're right, for me an occasional track driver, the 100'C difference might not be noticeable.
I read a research done by some auto lab in Asia that, slotted rotors ran approximately 70'C to 100'C cooler than blank discs. I don't remember the specifics but it's mostly because the grooves can rapidly expel gas and constantly revive the friction material surface.
Slotted and crossdrilled will run equally, if not HOTTER than regular vented rotors. You are losing material when you slot the rotors, and those stupid little slots get covered up on the track when the disc gets really hot. You couldn't even chisel out the material that goes in there because it is a combination of the rotor and pad material filling it up. Useless.
Warren
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
I read a research done by some auto lab in Asia that, slotted rotors ran approximately 70'C to 100'C cooler than blank discs. I don't remember the specifics but it's mostly because the grooves can rapidly expel gas and constantly revive the friction material surface.
But you're right, for me an occasional track driver, the 100'C difference might not be noticeable.
But you're right, for me an occasional track driver, the 100'C difference might not be noticeable.
I agree that blanks are the best rotors to get. My staple track rotor has always been Brembo blanks. But .. I have had good luck with PowerSlots. I have had a set for the longest time. It has eaten through a set of R4S, R4 and stock pads. Still going strong. A little pricy though. But if you are in it for the look, I would go with PowerSlot.
Thanks Chris. Nice pic.
73rd, what you are looking at is a rear Porsche rotor. Porsche 959. That's right, even their supercars have cracking rotors. Every Porsche racer I know that has cross drilled rotors dumps their rotors after 2-3 weekends @ the track.
Warren
73rd, what you are looking at is a rear Porsche rotor. Porsche 959. That's right, even their supercars have cracking rotors. Every Porsche racer I know that has cross drilled rotors dumps their rotors after 2-3 weekends @ the track.
Warren
HOW COME SOME MERCEDES AND PORCHES COME WITH CROSS-DRILLED ROTORS FROM THE FACTORY??
Boy, they sure do look pretty!
Until they crack....warp...and can't be turned.
They in lied. I'm dead serious. What they failed to tell you is that they either changed the brake compound, they measured it at a different time, wasn't even the same god damn car, and/or they only did 1 stop with the slotted rotors. 100c cooler, haha, I'd buy those in a heartbeat if they existed.
The test was not done on cars. It was done on a "turning machine" with a caliper on it. Then the temperature was taken by a gun, the same kind of gun that reads tire temperature. That test seemed pretty valid to me.
Anyway, Warren, I'm not doubting your real-world experience accumulated from racing. I would definitely take your opinion into consideration. Thanks for everyone's input!
I have cracked cross-drilled rotors on the track. However, I have also cracked slotted rotors, and solid rotors. And I don't think any one type cracked sooner than another.
The problem is that rotors get hot when you go around a racetrack. And they expand - but not uniformly, since the outer diameter of the rotor is bigger than the inner diameter.
In fact, the cracks happen when the rotors cool. When you're on the track, the rotors expand and the cracks fill in. It's when the car cools down that the cracks separate.
All you need to do is keep an eye on them. When the cracks are big enough to feel with the edge of your fingernail, it's time to replace the rotors.
Remember, rotors are consumables, just like brake pads and tires. I can get 6-12 track events on a set of front rotors, and then they crack and I replace them. (As far as I can tell, rear rotors last forever.)
The problem is that rotors get hot when you go around a racetrack. And they expand - but not uniformly, since the outer diameter of the rotor is bigger than the inner diameter.
In fact, the cracks happen when the rotors cool. When you're on the track, the rotors expand and the cracks fill in. It's when the car cools down that the cracks separate.
All you need to do is keep an eye on them. When the cracks are big enough to feel with the edge of your fingernail, it's time to replace the rotors.
Remember, rotors are consumables, just like brake pads and tires. I can get 6-12 track events on a set of front rotors, and then they crack and I replace them. (As far as I can tell, rear rotors last forever.)
Spoon slotted rotors, they are made by Honda with higher quality steel plus they have special coating on them. Price is pretty decent. Another option that I suggest is the Endless Basic ceramic rotors but they are a bit more than Spoon . I have them on my Civic and have attended a lot of circuit events .... no whops or cracks with my CCX pads.
Give it a try.
Give it a try.
After the ITR expo I had exceptional shudder when braking from the 50 mph + range. I assume my stock rotors had warped since the braking was weak and the shudder clearly noticable. So lesson here: don't replace your shot rotors with OEM. If you do a lot of track events you may save a lot of time by installing Power Stop or some other good brand rotors that handle much more abuse and can be used for up to maybe 700 track miles.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,633
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From: Drinking Beer in sunny FL and jamming to Skid Row, USA
After the ITR expo I had exceptional shudder when braking from the 50 mph + range. I assume my stock rotors had warped since the braking was weak and the shudder clearly noticable. So lesson here: don't replace your shot rotors with OEM. If you do a lot of track events you may save a lot of time by installing Power Stop or some other good brand rotors that handle much more abuse and can be used for up to maybe 700 track miles.
My power slots had shudder from the factory, and this was only worse after a track event. I switched back to brembo blanks after two events with POS slotted rotors, and am 100% glad I did. They are cheap and they work better.
And about the
"Spoon slotted rotors"
That's a great idea!
But will it take half a year for these rotors to actually arrive at anyone's doorstep?!
My friend waited 8 months for his Spoon strut tower bars. I've waited nearly three months for my Spoon sw388's. Spoon is great, but where is the availability? If you need rotors fast, and need to replace them often, go elseware, unless you can find someone that stocks them regularly.


