This is my all-motor build - will be be having this dynoed shortly and am asking you to guess the power at the flywheel. I have the JDM B16A2 which on paper produces 168bhp as stock.

- Custom straight-thru exhaust (decatted)
- 4-2-1 DC header
- AEM CAI
- Skunk2 Stage 1 cams (capped at 8200)
- SRR cam gears
- Skunk2 intake manifold
- Hondata S100 ecu
- Denso Iridiums/Magnecor wires
- running on 100 octane fuel

i'm guessing about 190bhp?? i want to hit 200bhp! possible? (i don't have the money for whp equivalent )

whats your guess? and opinion?

In particular viwes on the Skunk2 IM! I've heard the B16A2 IM is good enough, and skunk 2 would be a waste of money?

Also Skunk 2 cams... I want to use the car as an everday weekend car - not track - which means stage 1 offers the best power throughpout the powerband for my needs. Should i stick with skunk 2 stage I cams or maybe get stage II. To me it seems stage II most power comes after 7500rpms, whereas stage I power is between mid to high revs. Is this right?

 

first off are you using stock piston? 10.4 compression ratio? If you are then stick with skunk 2 stg 1 or ctr cams(your preference). I did notice I lost mid-range torque when I installed the skunk 2 manifold on my b16a. Unless you plan on reving your b16a past 8,200 rpms it's pointless to get a skunk 2 manifold (I found that out but I'm too lazy to switch back manifold). How much is 200bhp converted to whp?

Untuned dyno run was 162 whp and 109 tq with all the crap I have in my signiture.

 

Thanks for the infor with regards the IM. I've heard a lot of people say the stock b16 unit is good enough and upgrading to anythign is a waste of money!

200bhp converted to whp loses about 18% in transmission loss, so equates to roughly 170whp.

 

you're nowhere near 200hp, at the fly or wheels.

edit, you have 100 octane gas over there? Man you need higher compression.

 

Actually i think you will find it will be close to 200bhp. Might not be quite 200 but it will be there or thereabouts.

Re: 100 octane in the UK - we have Shell Optimax which is 98RON - i also have a fuel cat, which catalyses the fuel and raises it's octane to 100. And yes, it's a bolt-on part.

civic2slo, Looking at your power figure of 162whp, that equates to 191bhp. Not bad, in fact very good, given you don't have a header or performance exhaust and no remapping of ecu?

I'm sticking with stock pistons and compression ratio.

 

I have a question for you.

When does your VTEC engage? I have the Skunk2 Stage I cams also. Do you have the problem with the car bogging when the VTEC engages? I am. I called Skunk2 and they told me that I had to buy a VTEC controller so I can raise the VTEC engagement point. Let me know. Thanks.

 

Have you fully tuned your cams with cam gears and remapped the ecu using something like Honadata? This is essential to get the cams working properly. You do not need a VTEC controller. Hondata will do that and more.

 

any more opinions?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
civic2slo, Looking at your power figure of 162whp, that equates to 191bhp. Not bad, in fact very good, given you don't have a header or performance exhaust and no remapping of ecu?
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I have a greddy SP mufffler with 2 1/4 " piping, chipped ecu and oem cast iron manifold.

Too much pointless crap listed on my sig. anyways it would make it too long with everything listed.

The 14.2's 1/4 e.t. was made when I had a full catalytic converter on. But since have a minor blowned head gasket. It slowed down to 14.7-8's but with the catalytic converter off it has ran a 14.3's. Pisses me off I could of ran 13's (maybe) on street tires before the blowned head gasket...Heavy pig, wish I had a cx 13's for sure lol.

 

2 layer head gasket on minor port work should bring up the HP a little. Thats what i'm planning to do when I change my head gasket to a 2 layer. Should give 1-2 hp. If you do some minor port work another 3-5 hp. Flat valves another 1-2 hp. Hey it's all adds up. I wish I had $$$ for port and valves myself would put me into the high 13's e.t.

 

Did you dyno the car after you installed the S2 IM or is it just something you feel when you drive the car?

Have you heard from other people too that the S2 IM is pointless on the b16 unless revving past 8200?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caranjo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Did you dyno the car after you installed the S2 IM or is it just something you feel when you drive the car?

Have you heard from other people too that the S2 IM is pointless on the b16 unless revving past 8200?

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I dyno the car with the S 2 I M. I shouldn't really say it lost power...The S 2 manifold just moved the power band higher. But the mid range just plain miserable after the S2 I M. I know it lost mid range TQ for sure...I guess with the 62mm t/b the whole mid-range felt soggy (weak). But the top end feels great. I guess if you are setting up your car to be a circut (oem b16a) or drag (skunk2) the manifold would matter. But this is just my opinion.

 

Hmmm, thats interesting. Slightly off-topic but I'm actually thinking of making a home-made ITB which comes off the Honda CBR959. ITB's are good for low down power (esp. torque). I'm thinking of the using the S2 IM as my modified manifold - and am now wondering whether there wil be a gap in torque from low to mid range?


Modified by caranjo at 11:57 AM 2/2/2005