Turns over, but doesn't fire.

All the fuses look good.

It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is priming when the ignition is flipped on. I suspected the main relay, but I replaced it with one I know works, and I still have the same problem. Fuel pump doesn't run.

So...my guess is the fuel pump, or the wiring running from it to the relay.

Anybody else have any suggestions?

I did pull a plug wire to verify spark, and it is present.

 

it sounds like you pretty much answered your own question. take your fuel pump out, but leave it plugged in. turn the car to the "on" position, or whatever it is just before you start the car and listen to see if it is on. if not, check the continiuty of the plug and the wires from the fuse. if they do have power, change out your fuel pump...just trying to help....

 

BUMP

Anybody have the wiring diagram for the fuel pump, and/or check procedures?

I don't want to have to start driving this...

 

Just think how that would look with a '98+ headlight conversion & some 22" wheels & a big ricer wing...

You're talking about either the '94 or '95 from your signature? I'll try & remember to look up the wiring in my '95 Helm book. You shouldn't have to take the pump out of the tank. You should be able to unplug it sorta close to the access panel (under back seat). Then check for voltage with a multi-meter during the 2-second 'priming' when you turn on the key.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All the fuses look good.</TD></TR></TABLE>Make sure about that with a meter.

 

Could be ur distributor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hubjub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be ur distributor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't see how it could be that if he's still getting spark.

anyways, yeah check fuel your pump out and maybe pull the hose to the fuel rail to even see if fuel is getting up there.

i had this problem once on my vw and it turned out to be the pump inside the gas tank wasn't working anymore, so i changed it and was good to go.

hope that helps.


Modified by moreno at 11:41 AM 2/1/2005

 

happened to me three times befor its the coil in the distributer 5 min fix at about 70 bucks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">happened to me three times befor its the coil in the distributer 5 min fix at about 70 bucks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you not read that I'm getting spark?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hubjub &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be ur distributor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you not read that I'm getting spark?

OK -

Jumped the relay and my test light shows +12 at the pump connector. Also, followed the flowchart in the acura service manual and all the terminals going into the main relay check out (just +12 and grounds, didn't check the ecu pin outs).

Pulled the fuel pump. I do find continuity between the two terminals on the pump, so it's no an open circuit. I'm gonna try feeding +12 straight into the pump and see what happens.

I'll post the result later.

 

ok if its getting 12 volts why are you going to feed 12 volts straight to the pump?

do you actually hear the pump whining once you turn the ignition?

Also take the fuel line loose after the fuel pump is primed see if there is any pressure in the line. If so tighten the line back up and turn the ignition on again. See if there is still pressure. There should be a good amount of gas that will try to force itself out. and should hear a hiss from the pressure.

If that seems to be ok you might want to check to see if you are getting a injector pulse.

 

check fuel pressure and your injectors also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dnatrance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok if its getting 12 volts why are you going to feed 12 volts straight to the pump?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The connector is pretty filthy...I'm not sure it's a solid contact.

There was no pressure what so ever when I pulled the line off the top of the pump...and no I don't hear it run. That's what led me to believe it was the main relay, but I swapped it out with another and had the same problem.

Anyway, if I feed +12 straight into the pump and it runs I know I've got another problem. Just because I read +12 at the connector doesn't mean there's enough current to run the pump...

 

man im stumped then, looks like it may be electrical which i suck at.

 

yeah, just get a few batteries and some wires and some clips and pump 12V to it. if you don't hear it priming, it's not right. you may have other problems, but assuming this isn't a car that's just been sitting, and that it's been driven regularly, and that this just started happening, you probably only have 1 problem [area].

 

First, let me state, that reading is fundamental. (not directed at everybody, just some of j00!)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, if I feed +12 straight into the pump and it runs I know I've got another problem. Just because I read +12 at the connector doesn't mean there's enough current to run the pump...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly, I would try it too, just in case.

BUT-- if you're seeing 12V at the connector, I would almost guarantee that you don't have a "current" issue. If you did have some issue where that circuit wouldn't draw current, the voltage would read near zero. V=IR, and if the current is about zero and there's some resistance in the pump motor, the voltage across the terminals on the motor would also read zero.

Sorry man, time for a fuel pump. I have a stock ITR fuel pump in my garage (same as all integras?), Gurnee IL, not sure where in WI you're from.

-Chris

 

Jesus this is getting old...

Just hooked up +12 to the pump...and the damn thing ran. Is it possible the motor runs but the pump itself is physically damaged?

I'm just freakin lost. Tomorrow I'm going to put the pump back in the car, pull the fuel line off the filter, and feed the pump +12 straight from the battery to see if it actually moves liquid.

Wish me luck. The facilities guy at my work is getting pissed my car is sitting there. OH WELL...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The connector is pretty filthy...I'm not sure it's a solid contact...</TD></TR></TABLE>Well, clean it up & try again. Maybe it's that simple.

If not...

You say you jumpered the fuelpump circuit (bypassing the main relay) right? Try this... Make up some connectors, so you can plug the pump back up, while still measuring across that connector with a voltmeter. Then jumper the relay.

If it's a wiring problem, then just having the pump in the circuit will draw the voltage down. That would mean a similarly dirty connector somewhere 'upstream'. Or a wire that's almost cut thru but NOT shorting to ground (strange).

If it's the pump's fault, then the voltage will be good but the pump won't run.

My last failed fuel pump (um.. in an '89 saab) would run if I bumped it. But if it happened to stop in a certain position, it wouldn't start back up unless I moved the rotor. Think maybe that's happening???

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible the motor runs but the pump itself is physically damaged?</TD></TR></TABLE>Not likely. Besides, you said originally it wasn't running. Right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My last failed fuel pump (um.. in an '89 saab) would run if I bumped it. But if it happened to stop in a certain position, it wouldn't start back up unless I moved the rotor. Think maybe that's happening???
</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ sounds like a likely scenario!

 

Put everything back together, turned the key, and it fired the first time.

I'm thinking the connection to the pump was loose or dirty.

At least I don't have to spend any money...knock on wood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUMP

Anybody have the wiring diagram for the fuel pump, and/or check procedures?

I don't want to have to start driving this...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! i'm driving a bronco2 cause my car wont start this morning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put everything back together, turned the key, and it fired the first time.

I'm thinking the connection to the pump was loose or dirty.

At least I don't have to spend any money...knock on wood.</TD></TR></TABLE>Hope that's it.

But if one pole of the motor is burned out, it'll be dead the next time it happens to stop on that pole. Be prepared for a dead car for a couple days just in case this happens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hope that's it.

But if one pole of the motor is burned out, it'll be dead the next time it happens to stop on that pole. Be prepared for a dead car for a couple days just in case this happens.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

After I put the seat back in, I've noticed the pump is louder then usual. I'm pretty sure it's going...so I'm gonna pick one up at the salvage yard next week.

Worst case senario, I have to take my DC4 out of storage again for a couple days.

Thanks for all the help!



Modified by wreckedmyteg at 2:21 AM 2/4/2005

 

Well, I got the car together last night...started it up...everythings good.

UNTIL - I'm getting ready to goto the bar...it started up, ran for about 30 seconds, then just died.

I'm gonna tear the back seat out (AGAIN), and check for voltage at the plug. If I get +12, I'm gonna pull the pump and get a new one.

Question...I called the Acura dealer and they have a different part number listed for the GSR and LS. Does anybody know what the difference is? Is it the flow rate, or is the top plate physically different, and I can change the pump from one assembly to another.?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I got the car together last night...started it up...everythings good.

UNTIL - I'm getting ready to goto the bar...it started up, ran for about 30 seconds, then just died.

I'm gonna tear the back seat out (AGAIN), and check for voltage at the plug. If I get +12, I'm gonna pull the pump and get a new one.

Question...I called the Acura dealer and they have a different part number listed for the GSR and LS. Does anybody know what the difference is? Is it the flow rate, or is the top plate physically different, and I can change the pump from one assembly to another.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can give you a picture of my Type R one. http://www.acuraoemparts.com seems to sell it for $274.93
17040-ST7-L31 PUMP SET, FUEL 1998 INTEGRA 323.29 274.93 ...

A 94 LS (random pick) was a slightly different part number, same price.
17040-SR3-A31 PUMP UNIT SET, FUEL 1994 INTEGRA 323.29 274.93 Qty:

A 1995 GSR pump is MORE?! Bastards.
17040-ST7-A31 PUMP UNIT SET, FUEL 1995 INTEGRA 391.21 332.69