Popping Noise From Front End When Turning Steering Wheel Side to Side?
I've got a 1990 STD Hb that I've owned since I was 16. The car was in my mom's, then sister's possession for about 4-5 years and I've acquired the car back about a year and a half ago.
I've replaced the engine, tranny, struts, springs, wheels, tires, etc. but a problem that the car has always had since I've reacquired it is a popping noise sensation when steering the car back and forth, primarily while the car is sitting still.
I'm trying to narrow it down to see what all needs to be replaced. The chassis has about 215,000 miles on it.
Has anyone else experienced such a specific noise/feeling with your EF, and how did you remedy the problem?
I'm thinking I'll end up replacing the upper and lower front balljoints and inner and outer tie rod ends with brand new OE Honda parts before the problem goes away, but I'd sure love to have a definate answer before I begin throwing parts at a problem.
The lower balljoints cost me about $48.00 a piece, while the uppers are $95.00 a piece! The uppers come as a complete upper control arm assy.
I suppose eventually the parts listed will all need to be replaced eventually, but damn they're expensive!
I've replaced the engine, tranny, struts, springs, wheels, tires, etc. but a problem that the car has always had since I've reacquired it is a popping noise sensation when steering the car back and forth, primarily while the car is sitting still.
I'm trying to narrow it down to see what all needs to be replaced. The chassis has about 215,000 miles on it.
Has anyone else experienced such a specific noise/feeling with your EF, and how did you remedy the problem?
I'm thinking I'll end up replacing the upper and lower front balljoints and inner and outer tie rod ends with brand new OE Honda parts before the problem goes away, but I'd sure love to have a definate answer before I begin throwing parts at a problem.
The lower balljoints cost me about $48.00 a piece, while the uppers are $95.00 a piece! The uppers come as a complete upper control arm assy.
I suppose eventually the parts listed will all need to be replaced eventually, but damn they're expensive!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking I'll end up replacing the upper and lower front balljoints </TD></TR></TABLE>
That will solve your problem. There's a bulletin on the Acura 3.2TLs about this very problem.
That will solve your problem. There's a bulletin on the Acura 3.2TLs about this very problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evilsolb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked your cv axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, but I said when the car is sitting still.
If I had bad axles they'd click whgen I turn, not while sitting still and steering back and forth slightly.
Thanks for the suggestion though.

I guess I'll start with the cheapest ones, the lower balljoints, and go from there. I have a sinking feeling that I'll end up needing those expensive-*** uppers too though.
Thanks, but I said when the car is sitting still.
If I had bad axles they'd click whgen I turn, not while sitting still and steering back and forth slightly.
Thanks for the suggestion though.

I guess I'll start with the cheapest ones, the lower balljoints, and go from there. I have a sinking feeling that I'll end up needing those expensive-*** uppers too though.
my hatch and my brothers rex do the same thing also....it also clunks alot when i hit bumps and stuff.
We searched around and figured it is a steering rod bushing deal, it makes sense but i don't know how to replace it, im sure its not to tough though
We searched around and figured it is a steering rod bushing deal, it makes sense but i don't know how to replace it, im sure its not to tough though
Start looking into the steering gear box and all its components.
I really don't think its the ball joints.
I really don't think its the ball joints.
I have the same exact problem. Here is what I did...
Put car on jack stands.
Crawl under car.
Have a friend grab the tire & wiggle it left/right & up/down.
Find any places noises are coming from & fix them.
I found my whole steering gearbox was loose (about 7 turns per bolt). I also found my passenger side tie rod balljoint was shot. Even after fixing all that, I still had a shuddering under braking & clunking when turning the wheel with the car stoped. I then jacked up the car & inspected the inner rack ends (boots are toast), and it seemed the passenger side one was the source of the problem. Upon closer inspection (under the car), I found the rack ends were solid. Instead, the whole rack would shift inside the gearbox when I wiggled it. This problem is due to a worn out rack end bushing (#10 in pic below). I posted on here about replacing that bushing without dissasembling the gearbox, and somebody said it is possible. You just remove the tie rod & rack end, and then pry out the bushing. He said it was difficult because there are two nubs you have to push in (on the sides of the gearbox) while you pry the thing out. Then lightly greas a new one & push it in. I havn't tried it yet, but I already ordered the parts...
Put car on jack stands.
Crawl under car.
Have a friend grab the tire & wiggle it left/right & up/down.
Find any places noises are coming from & fix them.
I found my whole steering gearbox was loose (about 7 turns per bolt). I also found my passenger side tie rod balljoint was shot. Even after fixing all that, I still had a shuddering under braking & clunking when turning the wheel with the car stoped. I then jacked up the car & inspected the inner rack ends (boots are toast), and it seemed the passenger side one was the source of the problem. Upon closer inspection (under the car), I found the rack ends were solid. Instead, the whole rack would shift inside the gearbox when I wiggled it. This problem is due to a worn out rack end bushing (#10 in pic below). I posted on here about replacing that bushing without dissasembling the gearbox, and somebody said it is possible. You just remove the tie rod & rack end, and then pry out the bushing. He said it was difficult because there are two nubs you have to push in (on the sides of the gearbox) while you pry the thing out. Then lightly greas a new one & push it in. I havn't tried it yet, but I already ordered the parts...
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Does that car have strut bearings? that causes that problem in other cars that have strut bearings. Pardon my ignorance, I'm not much of a Honda guy but im trying to learn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nucivowner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does that car have strut bearings? that causes that problem in other cars that have strut bearings. Pardon my ignorance, I'm not much of a Honda guy but im trying to learn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, that is only in the McPherson setup.
No, that is only in the McPherson setup.
Well I know for sure that I need a left inner tie rod, because while my car was on our alignment rack I inspected the tie rods and the left inner has play in it.
So my new plan of attack will be:
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Front lower balljoints
And in a somewhat unlrelated item, I'm trying to swap in 86-89 Accord radius/strut rods because they're threaded and adjustable. I'm also wanting to put poly bushings or even hard metal bushings in the radius/strut rod bushing areas.
So my new plan of attack will be:
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Front lower balljoints
And in a somewhat unlrelated item, I'm trying to swap in 86-89 Accord radius/strut rods because they're threaded and adjustable. I'm also wanting to put poly bushings or even hard metal bushings in the radius/strut rod bushing areas.
just out of curiosity, why not get some SPC upper ball joints? I'm not sure exactly how much they cost , but if you're going to change them you might as well get some good stuff with adjustability.
Good luck finding your gremlin
Good luck finding your gremlin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just out of curiosity, why not get some SPC upper ball joints? I'm not sure exactly how much they cost , but if you're going to change them you might as well get some good stuff with adjustability.
Good luck finding your gremlin
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd also like to have the new upper control arm bushings where the anchor bolts hold the arms to chassis, but the SPC idea isn't bad at all.
I'll price those right now.
Good luck finding your gremlin
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'd also like to have the new upper control arm bushings where the anchor bolts hold the arms to chassis, but the SPC idea isn't bad at all.
I'll price those right now.
my old rex did the same thing tom, it ended up being the metal plate around the brake disk was slightly bent, and my lower ball joints were shot and it would make a clicking noise, once i replaced those it went away. good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same exact problem. Here is what I did...
Put car on jack stands.
Crawl under car.
Have a friend grab the tire & wiggle it left/right & up/down.
Find any places noises are coming from & fix them.
I found my whole steering gearbox was loose (about 7 turns per bolt). I also found my passenger side tie rod balljoint was shot. Even after fixing all that, I still had a shuddering under braking & clunking when turning the wheel with the car stoped. I then jacked up the car & inspected the inner rack ends (boots are toast), and it seemed the passenger side one was the source of the problem. Upon closer inspection (under the car), I found the rack ends were solid. Instead, the whole rack would shift inside the gearbox when I wiggled it. This problem is due to a worn out rack end bushing (#10 in pic below). I posted on here about replacing that bushing without dissasembling the gearbox, and somebody said it is possible. You just remove the tie rod & rack end, and then pry out the bushing. He said it was difficult because there are two nubs you have to push in (on the sides of the gearbox) while you pry the thing out. Then lightly greas a new one & push it in. I havn't tried it yet, but I already ordered the parts...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've heard of a lot of people remedying the clunk with this, if it's the same thing I'm thinknig of. In my rex, when I hit a bump/dip, its almost as if it pushes the steering rack towards me very slightly. Gets pretty annoying actually being able to feel every bump in the road. I'm hoping to install the ES master kit shortly, and hopefully that will fix the problem.
Put car on jack stands.
Crawl under car.
Have a friend grab the tire & wiggle it left/right & up/down.
Find any places noises are coming from & fix them.
I found my whole steering gearbox was loose (about 7 turns per bolt). I also found my passenger side tie rod balljoint was shot. Even after fixing all that, I still had a shuddering under braking & clunking when turning the wheel with the car stoped. I then jacked up the car & inspected the inner rack ends (boots are toast), and it seemed the passenger side one was the source of the problem. Upon closer inspection (under the car), I found the rack ends were solid. Instead, the whole rack would shift inside the gearbox when I wiggled it. This problem is due to a worn out rack end bushing (#10 in pic below). I posted on here about replacing that bushing without dissasembling the gearbox, and somebody said it is possible. You just remove the tie rod & rack end, and then pry out the bushing. He said it was difficult because there are two nubs you have to push in (on the sides of the gearbox) while you pry the thing out. Then lightly greas a new one & push it in. I havn't tried it yet, but I already ordered the parts...
</TD></TR></TABLE>I've heard of a lot of people remedying the clunk with this, if it's the same thing I'm thinknig of. In my rex, when I hit a bump/dip, its almost as if it pushes the steering rack towards me very slightly. Gets pretty annoying actually being able to feel every bump in the road. I'm hoping to install the ES master kit shortly, and hopefully that will fix the problem.
I've got a similar problem. But I know for a fact that my outer tie rods are worn out. But I'm going to replace the inter and outer tie rods along with new steering rack boots. I'm also going to do lower ***** joints too.
Also, check the play in the steering box. A buddy of mine knows how to do adjust it. You have to adjust it from the bottom where the steering shaft comes into the steering rack.
Also, check the play in the steering box. A buddy of mine knows how to do adjust it. You have to adjust it from the bottom where the steering shaft comes into the steering rack.
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HOMEMADEPOWER
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