I've always had my right tire sitting just slightly further back towards the fender (in relation to the front bumper) on the right side of my 1990 HB when compared to my left side.

I can only assume this has an effect on my caster readings when doing an alignment, which according to Honda are not adjustable on these EFs. I know limited adjustments can be made to move the wheel even firther back by adding shims to the radiius rod bushing/collars, but I'd like to find a way to move my wheel forward more.

On the 86-89 Accords the radius rods are threaded and adjustable, and I've heard they swap in on our EF bodies. I'd like to know who has tried this, and how well did it or didn't it work for you?

 

get a traction bar.. u can adjust caster and fix traction control

 

Well the new Accord parts run roughly $110.00 - how much is a decent traction bar set-up?

This is my daily driver car though, not my "best" car in the stable. I'm just trying to come up with a good solution to the caster deal.

 

Subscribe and bump for junkyard tech.

 

Maybe you bent your lower LCA or something?
Hit any curbs?

Could you add more threads to the radius rod on the side that sits too far back to pull it forward?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could you add more threads to the radius rod on the side that sits too far back to pull it forward?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The threads don't keep it from coming forward, there is a larger diameter section that the washer mates to that keeps it from pushing forward. You'd have to do some creative cutting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The threads don't keep it from coming forward, there is a larger diameter section that the washer mates to that keeps it from pushing forward. You'd have to do some creative cutting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah... yo're right.
I didn't sleep last night so I'm not thinking today.

 

It sounds like you possible might of bent something if your wheel is farther back then the other one. Just something to get if you already didn't, but most likely you already did.

 

Well I know I didn't hit anything, but again I'm sure my sister probably did when she had possession of the car.

I have no problems swapping out lower control arms, etc. but I still want to know if you can add the Accord radius rods in order to achieve adjustable caster.

On the same caster subject:

I've also heard of people swapping the left and rught spindles to acieve different caster results that make the steering more responsive - anyone else ever hear of or try this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">swapping the left and rught spindles</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard of the upper A arms, not the spindles. The tie rod mount would sort of not reach, among other things. Spindles are rather asymmetrical.

I have heard that swapping the upper A arms left to right gives a lot more caster, but the only people I've heard talking about that do it on their race cars, so I don't know about how street-friendly it is.

 

Do what i would do.
Go to the yard, and pull one off an accord radius rod. Then find an EF in the yard,
and try installing it before you buy it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do what i would do.
Go to the yard, and pull one off an accord radius rod. Then find an EF in the yard,
and try installing it before you buy it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Real Junkyard Tech
thats how i do things at the salvage yards. Test fitment, then buy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've heard of the upper A arms, not the spindles. The tie rod mount would sort of not reach, among other things. Spindles are rather asymmetrical.

I have heard that swapping the upper A arms left to right gives a lot more caster, but the only people I've heard talking about that do it on their race cars, so I don't know about how street-friendly it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I wasn't thinking too clearly when I posted that, but I meant a-arms.

on me once again!

Well I've gotten quotes for the inner and outer tie rods and lower balljoints. I've priced all Moog pieces because they're quality and they're only $170.00 for everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes I wasn't thinking too clearly when I posted that, but I meant a-arms.

on me once again!

Well I've gotten quotes for the inner and outer tie rods and lower balljoints. I've priced all Moog pieces because they're quality and they're only $170.00 for everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm doing my own custom DIY traction bar setup...this can be had for under $150 and EASILY done if you, or someone you know can weld. Also, I am not sure about the accord...but the EF is the same as the DA.

If you are interested int he DIY route, check out this thread as there is some great information. https://honda-tech.com/zero...64311

 

Kinda wierd to see Tom posting in the EF forum.

 

I have one extra degree of caster on one side due to a failed control arm bushing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have one extra degree of caster on one side due to a failed control arm bushing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Which bushing? The one where the strut fork is, or the one where the control arm meets the chassis?

 

the inner lower control arm bushing. When it was up on the alignment rack I could see it was clearly offset... unfortunately fixing it will take the extra cast away... and I'd prefer to have it be more on both sides for autocrossing.

 

If you put your car up on stands, then load each front wheel slowly with a jack while you are looking under the car (scary I know, maybe use a mirror?) you should be able to see if there is some play in the bushings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you put your car up on stands, then load each front wheel slowly with a jack while you are looking under the car (scary I know, maybe use a mirror?) you should be able to see if there is some play in the bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll just do this on our alignment rack. It's got the lifts on the lift where I can rasie and lower the car on the actual lift while the lift is already in the air, if that makes sense.

I think I'll just swap in some 1992 GS-R front lower control arms, spindles, brakes, etc. that already have the poly bushings in them. They're going to waste on a CR-X that's chilling in our shop that was supposed to be a circle track car.

They're going to bend the spindles anyways yo get the crazy *** camber they need for circle tracking it, so why ruin good integra spindles?

I'm also adding the SPC upper balljoints to the mix along with the proposed new inner and outer tie rod ends.

I'm pretty sure the Integra spindles will mess my camber up something serious. right now it's perfect IMO at -1.5 on both sides. I've got Tein S-Techs on KYB GR-2 struts and no camber kit up front, but to my knowledge Integra spindles really add negative camber, right?

At least this way I'll be starting with all newer control arms, spindles, etc. to ensure that I won't have any bent components. I'd still like to know about the Accord radius rods though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but to my knowledge Integra spindles really add negative camber, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm... I wonder if that is SCCA SoloII legal for STS2... I'd like to get some affordable negative camber, but I hear something bad about all the various ways to get it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hmmm... I wonder if that is SCCA SoloII legal for STS2... I'd like to get some affordable negative camber, but I hear something bad about all the various ways to get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's my logic on why I believe 90-93 Integra spindles add negative camber:

A friend of mine put 1995 Integra spindles on his 1989 Civic. The camber went crazy POSITIVE.

Those exact same spindles on a 1992-1995 Civic do not change the camber whatsoever.

Another friend of mine put 1992 Integra spindles on his 1994 Civic. The camber went crazy NEGATIVE.

Also if I recall this CR-X we have still has negative camber even after we turned the camber kits all the way out, and it has the 92 Integra spindles on it.

I guess there's only one way to find out...