i'm trying to build a gsr engine with mostly oem internals and make around 175-180 whp. can it be done pretty easily.

heres what my set up would look like:

- ctr pistons
- ctr cams
- skunk2 manifold
- i/h/e

 

add a great p&p and a valve job and i more than think that you will hit that

bump for a soon to be fast all motor car

 

how much does a p&p and valve job usually run.

 

ranges....get a crappy p&p for prolly about 700-800....or you can go to portflow or alaniz ranging about 1000-1800, well worth it....but if you dont have a lot of money try import builders i hear they do good work for the price

 

whats the most I could get out of it without a P&P, i'm kinda of on a budget. would different cams get me there.

 

I made 170 whp on My GSR on a MD dyno (not crappy dynojet and much more "conservative" i.e. realistic). That was with the CRAPPY old wheels.

My set up.
1996 GSR
AEM CAI, Skunk2 IM, Hondata Heatshield Gasket, CTR cams, PSI valvesprings, ITR retainers, Hondata S200 w/ payn tech dyno tune, Comptech Header, Carsound cat, 2.5" cat-back, Fidanza Flywheel, Clutchmasters stage III clutch.

The car made 170whp and 121.1ft/lb's on the MD and that was with HEAVY *** Enkei CDR-9's and 205/55R16 Grand Spirit Aqua Flow GTX tires (what the car came with when purchased). Now I have Rota Slip's and 205/50R15 Azenis and the car should hit around 175whp on the MD so around 180-185 on the Dynojet dependant on who you talk to.

I LOVE my set up. Mid range AND top end are AMAZING. For an overall powerband and overlap it is VERY hard to beat the CTR cams on a low comp (relatively) motor such as the 10:1 in the GSR. I'd say on a budget and stock bottom end GSR this set up CAN'T be beat, with all factors (reliability, power delivery, peak power, etc).

If you are going to rip open the block and get CTR cams then I would recommend getting Comp S200 cams for there excellent powerband or some BC III's or Jun III's for BITCHIN top end if you want to spring the cash.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by holotta_eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">add a great p&p and a valve job and i more than think that you will hit that

bump for a soon to be fast all motor car </TD></TR></TABLE>

Headwork not needed. Here is a link to my untuned results.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1097843

 

Your goals are very realistic. My stock block/stock head ITR put out over 190. This was using Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, Hondata, 440cc injectors, custom intake, and a Comptech 4-2-1 Race header with the stock ITR catback.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your goals are very realistic. My stock block/stock head ITR put out over 190. This was using Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, Hondata, 440cc injectors, custom intake, and a Comptech 4-2-1 Race header with the stock ITR catback.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can you claim that you have a stock head if you are using skunk2 stage 2 cams? And so much for OEM parts.
This guy wants to know if its possible using honda parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can you claim that you have a stock head if you are using skunk2 stage 2 cams? And so much for OEM parts.
This guy wants to know if its possible using honda parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No head porting, milling etc. is what he means

 

i made 190 with b16 pistons, GSR block, ANR header, AEBS manifold, and M22 cams from Rocket. I have a 1st GEN b16 head that is stock(no valve job, stock valves, no porting) and bad valve seals. it can make more, but i ran out of fuel

 

Buddy of mine just dynoed his at 171 whp and 129 tq. He has a 96 gsr w/ 64mm tb, skunk 2 im, bc 3+ cams, exhaust, and a shitty neuspeed header

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nisif &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buddy of mine just dynoed his at 171 whp and 129 tq. He has a 96 gsr w/ 64mm tb, skunk 2 im, bc 3+ cams, exhaust, and a shitty neuspeed header</TD></TR></TABLE>

BCIII's on WHAT!!! GSR comp? That's the only explanation for that little power for those cams. Look on the 10:1 comp of the GSR motor the BEST cams are the CTR's. The A's and stage I's of diff manufacturers can work well but they still are meant for the higher comp of the 10.6:1-11:1 range (save the skunk2 stage I which was made for our market GSR basically). If you are already tearing down the block it comes to what you want to do and who is doing the work. If you are paying someone to take the whole motor apart you might as well go all out from the beginning (i.e. oliver rods, wiseco pistons, sleeves, etc.).

If you want to simply take a stock GSR bottom end get CTR cams with tuning for the midrange and powerband of the honda designed cam is unbeatable. If you want to put in a little more compression and are going to get CTR pistons go with cams like the BCIII's. Of course it all is dependant on what head you use. Since you sited the Skunk2 IM I'm assuming the GSR head. Due to the smaller chambers of the GSR head with the CTR pistons comp will be around 11.5:1 so be CAREFUL. Get good tuning from a good dealer and I'm not sure where you live but hopefully somewhere with good 93-94 octane and not crap 91.

For a daily driver with heat and cool down cycles the CTR piston over bored by a half mil is a good choice for its driveable charecteristics over a silicone (high or low) piston.

Another thing is since the power output desired is not to high if you want to stay economical get a cometic, etc headgasket. I little smaller and bump the comp to around 10.2:1-10:4-1 and the CTR cams will come even more alive or go a little more aggresive for Toda A's or Comp S200 cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BCIII's on WHAT!!! GSR comp? That's the only explanation for that little power for those cams. Look on the 10:1 comp of the GSR motor the BEST cams are the CTR's. The A's and stage I's of diff manufacturers can work well but they still are meant for the higher comp of the 10.6:1-11:1 range (save the skunk2 stage I which was made for our market GSR basically). If you are already tearing down the block it comes to what you want to do and who is doing the work. If you are paying someone to take the whole motor apart you might as well go all out from the beginning (i.e. oliver rods, wiseco pistons, sleeves, etc.).

If you want to simply take a stock GSR bottom end get CTR cams with tuning for the midrange and powerband of the honda designed cam is unbeatable. If you want to put in a little more compression and are going to get CTR pistons go with cams like the BCIII's. Of course it all is dependant on what head you use. Since you sited the Skunk2 IM I'm assuming the GSR head. Due to the smaller chambers of the GSR head with the CTR pistons comp will be around 11.5:1 so be CAREFUL. Get good tuning from a good dealer and I'm not sure where you live but hopefully somewhere with good 93-94 octane and not crap 91.

For a daily driver with heat and cool down cycles the CTR piston over bored by a half mil is a good choice for its driveable charecteristics over a silicone (high or low) piston.

Another thing is since the power output desired is not to high if you want to stay economical get a cometic, etc headgasket. I little smaller and bump the comp to around 10.2:1-10:4-1 and the CTR cams will come even more alive or go a little more aggresive for Toda A's or Comp S200 cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

CTR pistons in a B18C with a B18C head does NOT add up to 11.5:1 compression. Check again. Hell, the USDM ITR pistons I run in my B18C with a B18C head almost add up to that. Try in the neighborhood of 12.3:1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How can you claim that you have a stock head if you are using skunk2 stage 2 cams? And so much for OEM parts.
This guy wants to know if its possible using honda parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno.. I consider my head to be stock, since everything in it is OEM Honda parts except the Skunk stage 1 cams. I even consider those to be on the same level as stock... since they don't make much power over CTR's...

 

CTR pistons in a B18C1=12.9:1, read the thread stickied at the top of this page

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CTR pistons in a B18C1=12.9:1, read the thread stickied at the top of this page</TD></TR></TABLE>

There you go, even better!

 

i made 197/139 with stock itr head, cams and pistons (except for 20 thou of milling)
check my sig for more details

 

Mistype I meant 12.5:1... but yes ran the calc... although I thought I could have sworn it was 12.5:1 oh well. Sorry bout the mix up.

The fact for 12.5:1 is why I was saying be so careful. Sorry again bout da mistype.