So as some of you know i had a 6 hour drive(back and forth) on Friday to go pick up someone up... on my car which is at 106k miles and still no timing belt change... anyways.... so i got back and this morning I figured I would check my timing belt and while i was there, why not do a full tune-up.... Spark Plugs/Spark Plug wires/Distributer Cap, Rotor, and Air Filter....

So I check the belt and no tears, no cracks, looks in great condition... i added some belt conditioner.

Spark plugs go without a hitch besides the fact the my spark plug socket kept getting stuck on the plugs so it was very annoying... i upgraded to Bosh +4 Platinum Plugs which didnt have to be spaced....(eh...)

I replaced my Air filter with a K&N drop-in setup....

and now the fucked up part:

I remove my Distributor Cap without a hitch.... so i try to remove the screw that is ontop of the rotor... i tried everything I coudl... finally I closly Examine it... theres a bunch of hard(yellow-white) residue around it and the edge of where the rotor sits.... and then it hit me.... the previous owner of this car Epoxied(SP?) the rotor onto the car!!! So I got every chemical I had and finnaly got that **** off... well it looks like he broke off the screw that holds the rotor onto the male part of the Distributor... and it looks like he tried to drill it out with no luck... so he cut the screw he had on earlier and just epoxied it into the hole... So I tried to drill the hole... tried everything to get that out of there or do something... but no alas no luck... and since I have to head back up the base this morning I did the same thing he did... but i Just added some more to the shaft and the opening in the cap....

So now im stuck.... I DO NOT want to leave this like this... i mean epoxy as strong as it is is not going to last forever, nor should my car be takin care of in such an ugly manner... but it looks like the only way im going to be able to fix that is to replace the shaft where the rotor sits.... is that possible? or am i going to have to replace the entire assembly? I mean it looks like its a single part so I wonder if there is some kind of special tool to take that part off... but i have no idea....

anyways... so i took it out on the road.... felt great... went on the freeway... felt great until i hit about 85mph(no one around and wanted to test the limits)
The car seemed to struggle to get up any higher were I know on a flat road my car can hit 100 mph without to much lag/trouble... so now im left with 2 things... the epoxy or the new plugs that didnt need to be spaced... i never trused those things... they have 4 little arms instead of one and they look odd.... but I figure if something was up with the spark plugs I probably would have thrown a code.... anyways....

Suggestions/Ideas anything... i plan to have this taken care of by wednesday but I need some ideas, haha. Thanks guys.


~Jon

 

I have heard some not so favorable reviews on the Bosch +4 plugs in a Honda. Loss of power, loss of mileage, bad idle. May want to change to some run of the mill NGK coppers and see what happens.


Jason

 

i have those kind of spark plugs, eh gas mpg not the greatest, but i did get better response time on the pettel.. =D

for the first month it pinged like nothin else but it went away.

i had them already for one year and 3 months

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FSTASNTZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard some not so favorable reviews on the Bosch +4 plugs in a Honda. Loss of power, loss of mileage, bad idle. May want to change to some run of the mill NGK coppers and see what happens.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bosch plugs suck in Hondas. I haven't seen any other brand cause as many problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow_ridge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have those kind of spark plugs, eh gas mpg not the greatest, but i did get better response time on the pettel.. =D

for the first month it pinged like nothin else but it went away.

i had them already for one year and 3 months </TD></TR></TABLE>wow, go away before you say something dumb like "i use metal shavings instead of oil, and it works just as good"

If being able to spell "pedal" properly wasn't enough... you drove with a motor that was pinging?

 

wait, so no one is really worried about the way the rotor is being held on to the shaft? Its being held on by Epoxy or whoever its spelled....

 

anyone have an idea on how to fix the rotor issue?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ideal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have an idea on how to fix the rotor issue?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only thing I could think of would be to replace the dizzy ...that will be costly so you may want to explore the good ol dremel; GL man, how about some pics of this wonder rotor .

I always use NGK (oem) for my ignition components *shrug* they seem to work the best .

 

it happens a lot on hondas. the screw is under a lot of heat and pressure and eventually makes best friends with the threads on the distributor shaft.

when it does happen and i can't fix it, you have to drill it out. no questions asked. or buy a new distributor. just be careful and go slowly. the threads only go in about 1/2"

and when you do get it out, put a little antiseize on the threads in addition to the sealant that honda uses on them. it'll go easier next time.

and for plugs, just use the NGK R-type 5ZF-11. they're cheap and they work great.