Looks like I might be moving shortly. The biggest issue I have with the move is going from sea level to 5,300ft above sea level. Its going to KILL my poor hatch! I know with turbo you can simply add a few lbs of boost to compensate for the increase, but what, if anything, can be done with an NA car?

I am seriously considering selling the B series swap and going with a turbo D. I know with 10psi I can get the turbo D to the same level, if not higher, then what the B series sits at now. I just really have always been a fan of all motor and would hate to return to boost once again.

 

moving to NM or CO i take it?

if you're NA, forget it.. you'll lose a guaranteed 1sec or more in your ET.. and usually around 20-25% HP..

FI is the only way..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devoid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">moving to NM or CO i take it?

if you're NA, forget it.. you'll lose a guaranteed 1sec or more in your ET.. and usually around 20-25% HP..

FI is the only way..</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I am actually looking to move to Utah. In the Salt Lake area possibly. Right now I am turning 13.8 @ 102mph on street tires all motor and even untuned. I would love to be able to still get those times up there, but it seems everyone runs FI out there thats into this kind of thing.. That would kinda leave me a little "behind" if you know what I mean?

 

Good luck. I"m at 5800 feet in Denver and FI is really the only way to compensate. Even then a "maxed" out turbo still loses tons of power compared to it's sea level counterpart.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisgvr4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck. I"m at 5800 feet in Denver and FI is really the only way to compensate. Even then a "maxed" out turbo still loses tons of power compared to it's sea level counterpart.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, thats true.. but it at least allows you to be able to "compete" with cars with similar setups at that elevation. Everyones car up there looses power from the elevation.. It just a small way that you can compensate I guess for the elevation. I think I will be in the process of unloading the DOHC in order to get ready to rock the single slammer. Hope I can get it into the 13's with the boost.

 

race downhill?!? seriously retune when yr there, youll have to take some fuel out for the thinner air.

 

First of all the elevation in Salt lake city is not that high maybe if you move to ParkCity ya but S.L.C. is about 4600 so that will help you a little about its better than 5300 right Second that does suck you moving to SLC and ya your car is going to run shitty in that elevation i live by SLC and our elevation is 4300 thats still shitty. I will say you will be hitting mid 14's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H2kEg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all the elevation in Salt lake city is not that high maybe if you move to ParkCity ya but S.L.C. is about 4600 so that will help you a little about its better than 5300 right Second that does suck you moving to SLC and ya your car is going to run shitty in that elevation i live by SLC and our elevation is 4300 thats still shitty. I will say you will be hitting mid 14's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its all the same. I know it will run mid 14's.. But that still sucks when you were running high 13's, you know? Why would it suck to live in or near SLC? I don't think its quite that bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtype11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">race downhill?!? seriously retune when yr there, youll have to take some fuel out for the thinner air.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even with retuning, how in the heck is it going to compensate for the elevation?

 

how do the pros do it? I've seen all motor cars come from sea level and run the same times at higher elevation(~2500ft)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even with retuning, how in the heck is it going to compensate for the elevation?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont expect it to be as quick, never meant that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dominican_Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do the pros do it? I've seen all motor cars come from sea level and run the same times at higher elevation(~2500ft)</TD></TR></TABLE>

You really think I will run the same times up at 4,600ft elevation that I do down here around sea level? I don't think so at all. A 13.8 down here is a 14.6 up there.

 

Youll still be able to compete. Its not just you that is affected its everyone, so all of you will be slow. Here in CO Springs there are plenty of guys who live by All-Motor, and they dont let the ele. affect them from running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegedrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Youll still be able to compete. Its not just you that is affected its everyone, so all of you will be slow. Here in CO Springs there are plenty of guys who live by All-Motor, and they dont let the ele. affect them from running. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know that.. But the turbo guys have the ability to just crank up the psi a little and go.

 

There is no replacement for elevation...not even a turbo.

Do a search for altitude and read all the treads.


Modified by Raf at 4:17 PM 1/26/2005

 

Its hard to build an NA honda for drag up here. Its definitely respectable though, but much more difficult to trya nd keep up with the FI and bigblock guys.

A friend of mine ran a 13.8@99 up here with a stock d16 and a small 16g with 20" slicks in his full-interior-minus-back-seats-EK coupe, so you could do it with a boosted D, but why not boost the B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its hard to build an NA honda for drag up here. Its definitely respectable though, but much more difficult to trya nd keep up with the FI and bigblock guys.

A friend of mine ran a 13.8@99 up here with a stock d16 and a small 16g with 20" slicks in his full-interior-minus-back-seats-EK coupe, so you could do it with a boosted D, but why not boost the B </TD></TR></TABLE>

Simple. I can sell the B and all the crap with it, install a d, turbo it, and STILL have money left over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Simple. I can sell the B and all the crap with it, install a d, turbo it, and STILL have money left over. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know about that-- turbo D isn't that much more superior to a B-swap up here, if I had the choice, I'd always have the B in my car-- you can always turbo the B and you have that much more room for improvement. But remember, everyone is at that altitude, it's just part of it. Just stick with what you have instead of having to go through all the labor and down time for a D-series on stock internals. But each to his own I suppose.

 

whats your setup? there are a few guys running low 13's na. just tune that baby!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't know about that-- turbo D isn't that much more superior to a B-swap up here, if I had the choice, I'd always have the B in my car-- you can always turbo the B and you have that much more room for improvement. But remember, everyone is at that altitude, it's just part of it. Just stick with what you have instead of having to go through all the labor and down time for a D-series on stock internals. But each to his own I suppose. </TD></TR></TABLE>

To turbo a B series would run me like $2,000.. I can get a brand new D series kit for $1,200 and be done. Stock internalled D's can easily take 10psi which will get me about 200whp. 15psi would get me around 250whp, but the engine prolly won't last long. Thing is though, d series parts are dirty cheap. I can get the whole swap for $600 and it drops right in. Downtime? a day, if that.

Yes, everyone is at the same elevation.. but the boost guys can just kick up the boost a few psi and essentially compensate for the elevation. All motor guys, well, you need to dump more money into more mods and then your still slower then it would be at sea level.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9sech22civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats your setup? there are a few guys running low 13's na. just tune that baby!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You want all the details?

B18C1 block, decked, bored .25 over
USDM ITR pistons
OEM Honda bearings
B18C1 head slightly milled, ITR intake valves, ITR valvesprings
Skunk2 stage 1 cams
Skunk2 adjustable gears
New oil pump, blah blah - doesn't matter
Bottom end fully balanced by Comptech
ACT 8lb flywheel
Exeddy full face clutch
Skunk2 intake manifold
Stock GSR 60mm tb
AEM CAI
JDM DC 4-1 2.5" collector
Custom 2.5" Exhaust and high flow cat
CTR tranny, 4.7 final drive

The setup is currently untuned. I adjusted the gears and left with 177 to the wheels without messing with the fuel/timing maps. Best time, 13.8 @ 102mph down here.

 

**** man... sell your NA parts (cams, header, intake, etc) and put it towards a turbo kit. A decent mild NA build like that with some mild boost would haul major ***.

 

you shouldn't have a problem getting into the 13's. There is a kid name john that drives a gray crx, similar set up as yours but has stage 2 cams and a slightly higher compression piston. and with a slighlty good tune he was running 13.3's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** man... sell your NA parts (cams, header, intake, etc) and put it towards a turbo kit. A decent mild NA build like that with some mild boost would haul major ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honestly I don't like boost. As funny as it sounds I had a bad experience with it before. I know it can be made reliable, but its expensive.. especially on a b series. At least with the D series, blowing it up doesn't leave you out too much cash!

 

With 176whp and 20" slicks, I broke off a 14.21 like 4 years ago in an integra shell. Not a whole lot of difference. BTW that's Bandimere speedway that's 5830ft.