My 98 EX has a problem, and I am assuming that I blew a rod bearing.

Car idles fine, but under acceleration it knocks hard. If held at constant RPM in any range, the noise goes away.

Any opinions appreciated... On a related note, if anyone knows where I can get a low mileage D16Y8, hook it up!

 

Also, is it possible to replace the rod bearings without a complete dismantle (i.e., could I go in through the bottom end and replace the bearings?)

I don't have the cash to do a b16 swap yet, and would like to squeeze 6-12 more months out of the d16 if possible...

 

If you did spin a rod bearing, it is possible to replace it through the bottom of the block, but is EXTREMELY difficult and time consuming. IMO, it's not worth the time. You could go out and find a new block for about $200 or so and just swap the 2 blocks till you have the money for a new swap.

 

That's kind of what I figured... Oh well, Looks like I'll be drivin' the ol' ef for a few more weeks. Twice the mileage, none of the hassles!

 

mmmm NOT true... its fairly simple..
i'm in that process right now actually..
i removed the down pipe 7 bolts
drained oil and filtered it
removed the oilpan 22 bolts
removed oil sump 4 bolts
removed main bering cap 10 bolts
removed bolts from piston rods 2 each * easier done when piston is in the down position....
remove bearings

took me about 2.5 hrs...

now i'm waiting on the replacement bearings, but i'm not sure if i ordered the right size... which sucks...
shouldnt all 4 rod bearings be the same size?

d16y8 motor

 

Well... Now I'm confused. That was the idea that I had, but I wasn't sure how complicated it would be (I've never tried it). It would seem pretty straightforward, and worth trying before replacing the block.

Anyone else with an opinion?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iceman7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mmmm NOT true... its fairly simple..
i'm in that process right now actually..
i removed the down pipe 7 bolts
drained oil and filtered it
removed the oilpan 22 bolts
removed oil sump 4 bolts
removed main bering cap 10 bolts
removed bolts from piston rods 2 each * easier done when piston is in the down position....
remove bearings
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This would work if your trying to replace the rod bearigs. If you want to replace crank bearings, it is a totaly different story...

 

well... if you would READ what he is asking... he said ROD bearings.. NOT main..
so YES this would work... like I said i'm doing it right now.. waiting on the parts actually.

 

Yeah, I am just looking to replace the rod bearings... I seem to get conflicting stories from everyone I talk to.

Any idea of how difficult it will be getting the new bearings back in? I have two days off coming up this week, and am thinking about giving it a shot.

Sorry to sound like such a noob, I am actually quite capable mechanically, but haven't tried a patch-up job like this before. Just trying to save myself a headache.

 

If you feel you know what you are doing and you have ALL the parts (and the ones you don't think you will need) at hand, you should be able to do it in two days.

 

when u press the gas to start to go, does the car shake once your in gear ?

 

well.. like I said... it took me like 2.5 hrs to pull the the bottom out of the motor to remove the rod bearings...
but youll need to pull it apart to see what color bearing you need... so dont count on getting it done in one evening.. I had to order the bearings from honda and its been 4 days now since ive started.. not all the rod bearings are gonna be the same color... on mine cyl 1,2,4 were green and 3 was black... kinda weird but thats how honda did it.
its not hard to replace them at all if your (mechanically minded).

 

How much did the bearings run you from Honda? I have seen prices of about $30, but it was for the different sizes, so is that $30 per bearing?

The car doesn't shake when in gear, it just sounds like someone is tapping on the engine with a wrench when you accelerate. When you pull the plug on #4 the noise goes away completely.

I think I am going to try it. If it doesn't work, I'll still have to replace the engine anyway, and I've only lost a few bucks and a couple days work.

Anything special I should start with (out of the norm tools,etc) to save some trouble? Also, Is there a method to the color coding, or does it depend on the clearances on each individual engine?

 

the bearings were like 4 dollars each (per half) so 8 for a whole one.. you might as well change all of them if your down there.. it ran me like 40 dollars or so for them.
if the noise goes away then it sounds like the rod bearing.. dont run the car or youll damadge the piston rod and maybe the crank..

on the color coding i used the code out of the haynes manual.. there is a number on each piston rod that you will have to get the coinsides with a letter on the crank. You will need both of them to give to honda to get the right bearings.

my bearings will be in tomorrow and ill be putting it back together.. Ill take some pics and post them for ya tomorrow so youll know what your getting your hands into.

 

Sounds good. I would really appreciate it.

 

ok... well, I thought I had the camera here... no can find.. sorry. anyway, the install went great took me about 2.5 hrs to get the bearings installed and everything back together.. damn.. i HATE working outside when you cant feel your hands.. **** its cold.. i'm sure the install would have gone quicker if it wouldnt have been so damn cold..

so I put everything back together... and changed the oil filter and put new oil in.. pulled the plug wires and cranked it for about 20 seconds to let the engine prime up.. started her up and let her idle untill warm... gently raised the engine speed to about 3k for a couple of sec and let idle again and shut her off... then about 10 min later went for a nice smooth drive.. sounds as good as new

 

Sounds too good to be true. Well, my buddy and I are going to give it a shot anyway and see what happens.