Whats going on people. I am back in the game again. For those that don't know me, I sold my hatch, missed it badly after selling, and now I am back with another one that I came up on. I think I got a good deal on it. We traded cars. I had an '87 Intega that was clean (just painted) and I paid $350 for. Thats the total price including paint. and this guy had a '90 Hatch w/d16z6 swap, lowered, 6 pc wing west kit, GSR front seats, si rear seats, gsr console, and more. He couldn't figure out why it wasn't running.

I just finished picking it up tonight and it is giving a code 9 and code 16. One thing that puzzles me is that he is using a Si computer on this set up. Could this be a problem?? I will look closer into it tomorrow when its daylight outside, just trying to get a head start on it though.

EDIT: I forgot to add that it does start and run, but it cuts out at 2500 rpms. Hell we drove it onto the tow truck.

 

Well code 9 is #1 cyl pos. and code 16 is injector.

 

I know what the codes are. Thanks anyways though.

Ok on to a few pics that I snapped tonight. This is they way he has the distributor wired. I believe the dist. code said something like TD-18u?? Can anyone lead me to some good wiring diagrams for this engine??











Now the wiring looks pretty bad I know. But he said he paid some one $500 for this.


Modified by T-Mo at 10:50 PM 1/24/2005


Modified by T-Mo at 11:33 PM 1/27/2005

 

that ain't no z6 thats a d15z1 vtec economy ,whats your block code?

 

dido, What he said.... Its def. looking like a d15z1! agh. It also looks like they used a si intake manifold.

 

lol i hope you saw that it was a d16z6 on the block before you got it, otherwise you got what 70 or 90 hp?
lol

 

hmmm maybe they used saturated injectors instead of obd1 peak and hold? Hmm wait what ecu is supposed to be running it?

 

glad u returned, didn't know you left

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-Mo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> '90 Hatch w/d16z6 swap</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-Mo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol i hope you saw that it was a d16z6 on the block before you got it, otherwise you got what 70 or 90 hp?
lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>

D15Z1
1.5
16VSOHC
VTEC-E
PGM-FI
1493cc
92hp@5500rpm
97tq@4500rpm
92-95 Civic VX
9.2:1 cr.

LOL

 

good trade man, just fix it to run mint, doesent need to be fast.. at first

 

hows the idle ? is it running rich or anything ?

 

The block code says d16z6. I did check that out. Maybe he changed the valve cover?? I don't know.

Now can some at least try and help instead of being asses??

 

you will have to start from scratch on the wiring and do it all over yourself. it`s the only way you will know and understand whats going on with it . you have no idea what he has done so just start from a clean sheet and it should be a piece of cake . it says he is runnin an si ecu . is this 88-91 si or 92-95 si . obd-0 or 1 . need more info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biggdogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will have to start from scratch on the wiring and do it all over yourself. it`s the only way you will know and understand whats going on with it . you have no idea what he has done so just start from a clean sheet and it should be a piece of cake . it says he is runnin an si ecu . is this 88-91 si or 92-95 si . obd-0 or 1 . need more info. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree... do all the wiring over. i bet you thats where the problem is. soder everything make sure all the connections are tight. also check at the ECU where they switched the pins for the mpfi those may have been done incorrectly.

if i remember correctly when my friend and i did the mpfi our problem was with the #1 cyl pos. it ran in limp. ended up being a bad connection at the ECU.

its the wiring.

 

From the looks of it its obviously obd0, So for the dizzy code, there are 2 wires on the dizzy plug that are white, start out by switching those 2 wires around and then reset the ecu and see what happens. Also you never took a pic of the resistor box, if there isnt one, you need to wire one in then wire in the injectors correctly.

If I were you, id pull the entire harness and redo it, and just convert to obd1 and run the p28, or you could also stay obd0 and just get a chipped ecu now that TE has one wire vtec activation.

 

it seems to me if this isnt a Si you need to do the MPFI wiring. #9 and #16 is the code when you swap a MPFI setup in a DPFI wiring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaImportTuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it seems to me if this isnt a Si you need to do the MPFI wiring. #9 and #16 is the code when you swap a MPFI setup in a DPFI wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't quite understand what you were trying to say?? The person I got the car from did convert it to MPFI.

Ok so, after driving it on and off the tow truck the other day, my friend took it up the street and it cut out after 2500 rpms. Yesterday it wouldn't crank at all. It kept cranking and crankin, but never turning over. Today while on break, I ran home and messed around with the car a little (moving wires, took injectors out and put them back, etc) and it cranks up fine. I think that it is the wiring or injectors. I don't know.

Next question......since it was pointed out that the car may have possibly had a head swap, how can i tell?? what is the code stamp on the head suppose to say??? Also he doesn't have the vtec wired and I know 2 wires go from the ecu but to where from there???

My next

 

This is the guy you got the car from.

For you and everyones sake...Its a D16z6 that is still wired for obd0. The valve cover that was on the car was messed up and I had that one lying around. And let me clear up the cost price for the wiring. That price was including the T-belt change,front oil seal and of course the MPFI. The car is wired correctly. Everything is soldered and heat shrinked. The reason why the 2 wires at the dizzy looks messed up is because I needed to find a Si harness and pin out those 2 wires and added it to the harness, so in the mean time I had to just hardwire it to the dizzy harness. Everything should be correct, because I was personally driving it for 2 mo before it took a **** on me. It was my daily driver. The car was running perfect before it threw the code 16 and wouldnt crank. Then I found some time to mess with it and replaced 2 injectors with some I had lying around. Then it started to crank, but seemed it wasnt getting enough fuel. So that might be the problem there. And as far as Vtec I was going to run a VAFC to activate Vtec.

The Si ecu is not the problem, because its still OBD0(Si dizzy,Si intake manifold, and Si PM6 ECU)

If I had a place to keep this car, it would of never left my hands. Your right, I also think you got a deal for it.

G-Luck with it though, it was fun while I had it.

 

^ ^ ^ ..... well there you go. Dont get discouraged, i'm sure you can fix the problem with some time and effort. Just dont be hastey and do something stupid. Keep asking around here, and i'm sure you'll figure something out.

 

you should see if you have good pressure from your fuel pump and replace the fuel filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX_Control &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you should see if you have good pressure from your fuel pump and replace the fuel filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fuel filter was replaced 2 weeks prior.

Also has new NGK plugs, plug wires, PCV valve.

 

Plan A: I had the same problem with my a6( and yes it is an a6 ) replace distributor!
fuel filter would be a good idea too, along with some fuel system cleaner.

Plan B: go get your car back!

 

thanks for the replies everyone. Especially you LHD Hatch, thanks for clearing some things up. I didn't know you were a member here too.

We solved them problem today. #3 cylinder wasn't firing because the injector was bad. Got 4 injectors (only needed 1) from the junkyard and everything is running smooth. It was smoking quite a bit, but then we forgot that since the injector was sticking open, gas was just sitting and got mixed in the oil. After we changed the oil, it is WAYYYY better. The oil was running out like water. LOL

As far as wiring everything is cool. All of the other parts of the harness was neat and everything. Just the distributor part was like that. So basically, LHD hatch you were in the right direction. The car was well taken care of. You all shall see some pics soon. My brother-in-law paints all of our cars so I will wait til its at least painted before I show it off.


Modified by T-Mo at 11:46 PM 1/27/2005

 

hi guys im new here but im having this same problem but i dunno if its an injector i just replaced my d15b2 engine for a d15b7 engine it was obd1 and i swapped it to obd0 i got a ecu out of a integra with a d16a1 the code on it is pg7 i think does somone have the color codes from the si distributor to the original d15b2 distributor plug ive been working on this for like a week now can get the dumb thingi got a site that showed me some wireing but the colors dont match my si distribuors wire colors the code on the si distributor is td18u pleez help i need my car

 

the wierd thing is that it isnt putting out any codes to the ecu now just wont start it will fire then die i check to see if the injector resistor box was getting juice and it was i dunno i need help