why am i burning oil??...HELP
Hey its me again...I got a d16a6, and the head was rebuilt just like 2 months ago....The bottom end wasnt touched at all.....This is what happened...
I noticed along the top of my block and the bottom of my head, that there was some oil leakage...So i decided to change the headgasket.....I took the head to a local machine shop, and since I had some extra money, I told the guy to just go ahead and totally rebuild it....So they did.....
I finally got the head back and noticed inside where the spark plugs go,...that this one rubber seal was ripped.....So i brought the head back and the fixed it....
Then my uncle, (mechanic), put the head back on and dealt with the timing issue..Cuz i have no clue about timing...anyway..
I got the car back, and I was driving it at night, and I smelled this oil smell....So I thought nothing of it, I thought it was prolly all the brake cleaner I used on some parts just drying off....
Then the next morning, I was driving, and came to a red light.....Light turns green, I take off in first..and this HUGE *** cloud of BLUE smoke is everywhere!...
I was like WTF!....Then it just worse and worse!....blue was EVERYWHERE!....I decided to take the car to some mechanic, and ask him what it could be...The guy said its prolly my piston rings!!...i was OMG!
oh yea, now, the car doesnt really smoke unless i bring it to like 4000rpms...
If it even matters, the car has a mugen chipped pm6 ecu, and an exhaust...Thats about it...
Can anyone tell me what is wrong with the car?...Is it my head or bottom-end?...
PS...I am gonna do the mini me, and is there anything I should prep before I bolt the Z6 head on???
PLEASE HELP ME ASAP!!
I noticed along the top of my block and the bottom of my head, that there was some oil leakage...So i decided to change the headgasket.....I took the head to a local machine shop, and since I had some extra money, I told the guy to just go ahead and totally rebuild it....So they did.....
I finally got the head back and noticed inside where the spark plugs go,...that this one rubber seal was ripped.....So i brought the head back and the fixed it....
Then my uncle, (mechanic), put the head back on and dealt with the timing issue..Cuz i have no clue about timing...anyway..
I got the car back, and I was driving it at night, and I smelled this oil smell....So I thought nothing of it, I thought it was prolly all the brake cleaner I used on some parts just drying off....
Then the next morning, I was driving, and came to a red light.....Light turns green, I take off in first..and this HUGE *** cloud of BLUE smoke is everywhere!...
I was like WTF!....Then it just worse and worse!....blue was EVERYWHERE!....I decided to take the car to some mechanic, and ask him what it could be...The guy said its prolly my piston rings!!...i was OMG!
oh yea, now, the car doesnt really smoke unless i bring it to like 4000rpms...
If it even matters, the car has a mugen chipped pm6 ecu, and an exhaust...Thats about it...
Can anyone tell me what is wrong with the car?...Is it my head or bottom-end?...
PS...I am gonna do the mini me, and is there anything I should prep before I bolt the Z6 head on???
PLEASE HELP ME ASAP!!
was the shop you took it to a good place to go, or were you looking for a cheap place, also you said your unlce is a mechanic, i would think that he would have been able to do it
well i was lookin for a cheap price but i ended up paying $535 for the rebuild!....and i dont think installing a head isnt too hard for a mechanic...what could he have done wrong....??.....
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ur piston rings can't handle the pressure is buildin because of the new seals that were installed.. and besides.. there is no way that u can screw a valve seal job.. unless of lack of common sense.. so do to the compression build higher that the piston rings are normally to it causes pressure to build up high enough to cause oil to leak into the comp chambers and flow out into ur exhaust in form of smoke.. so the diagonsis to ur problem would to the a re-ring jobon ur bottom end.. and if u really wanted to be on the safe side replace the oil pump while u were at it.. and in the end the combination would be complete..
well u can definately get the the rings for like 50 $ at checkers or autozone or u can get the OEM honda rings for like 75$ at ur local honda dealership.. but thats the rings alone..
don;t forget to re-hone ur cylinders before u reinstall ur pistons.. and be sure to use a piston ring expander if u get the moly ring.. u ghetto swirling them on.. and while u have ur pistons out.. inspect ur rod bearings. if signs of wear .. u might as well get the bearings and pump.. cuz u don;t wanna have another problem with ur motor.. and at that point ur have a sum what NEW motor.. or in other words.. a over-hauled engine...
i really dont think i can do this myself...i dont have much experience with bottom ends....so if i took it somewhere, how much do you think this would run me....and i mean all of it!....should i take it to ANY mechanic (general mechanic)...or should i take it to a performance shop instead?...which would be better and cheaper?
thanks for your help bro!
thanks for your help bro!
top end on the car wouldnt be too expensive, but when you go to tehm bottom, yeah. i got a new head on my car, another d15 top, shoulda went w/ a d16 vtec but anyways, the mech said that i proberly would have a problem w/ burning oil since i have a new head... but what i dont get is why it burns oil even tho i had the new head and all new seals...
well .. 1st of all why take it to a perf shop.. ya just want a standard rebuild.. so what i'd do to get the cheapest price is take out the motor myself.. take the head off. and strip it all the way down to the bare block.. take the piston rings off the piston... but rmember when u take off the rod caps that u make sure and mark which sides are the sides that go together.. its should have a number on it.. like for exp "2".. make sure those 2 side go back together the same way.. and the pistons in the same order they came out.. 1,2,3,4.. and facing the same direction.. exp.. the #'s on the rod caps should be facing the front of the block. and if ur juss the rings replaced.. make sure the bearings are in the EXACT place when the came out.. and that way u'll be paying for half the labor.. oh yea.. make sure that the mechanic re-hones the block.. to insure full potentail of the new rings.. but if the block has a ridge at the top of the cylinder walls. u'll have the mechanic cut the ridge juss to the the pistons out. u can feel around the top of the cylinder walls.. can u feel a lil bump juss as ur finger leaves the deck of the block.. start from the top of the piston which be sittin at bottom dead center (BTC).. and slowly go up the cylinder wall juss as u get to the top.. but in that case.. u'd be probably be payin the same.. so it all depends on hom u know and how much u can afford and the mechanic..
the reason why ur motor starts to smoke after u get a new head or u redo ur head is because that the piston rings are used to the low compression that ur old head was making.. due to the new head and all the pressure being compressed a lil more than normal with the old valve seals it put stress on the rings and cuz it to have oil pass it by and leak into the compression cylinder to burn with the gas and cause SMOKE..
wow dude you know your ****!.....the pistons come out from the bottom right?....
and this might sound funny, but i replaced the piston rings on a 50cc moped and getting those rings on was a BITCH!....would the ring expander make it easier??
thanks again bro
and this might sound funny, but i replaced the piston rings on a 50cc moped and getting those rings on was a BITCH!....would the ring expander make it easier??
thanks again bro
even a monkey could use a ring expander.. no the pistons come out the top of the block.. you undo the rod bolts from the bottom.. and the piston well slide out the cylinder upwards... and don;t forget to used a piston ring compresser to make it easier reintalling the pistons.. and make sure that u face all the gaps in the right direction or have a EXPERINANCED mechanic place the gaps for u.. or else ur shyt still smoke like a bat from hell...
cool man!.....i should definately get my Z6 head that i just recieved checked out right?....the guy i bought it off of, said it was recently rebuilt...it does look clean as hell too....but just in case of leaks, i should get it checked out right...??..and what headgasket is best??...i do not want to boost the d16z6...i want it all NA....and i heard the stock HONDA headgasket is best because it is thinner, and thinner means higher compression...is that true, and what do you suggest??...
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a OEM honda gasket is good for alotta reasons.. its thin.. its metal.. and yea.. u know the rest.. a fel-pro or anything other than aftermarket would be a waste of time and money.. so i'd go wit the OEM honda gasket..
yea thats what i thought....
so you're running the d15b2 huh??...is it in a hatch or a coupe.??...lets see some pics dude!!
so you're running the d15b2 huh??...is it in a hatch or a coupe.??...lets see some pics dude!!
yea.. for now.. plannin on a GSR.. yea i got a hatch.. yea.. i know alot bout D15s.. build a pretty quick one bout 1 yr back for a friend of mines.. port and polished the heads... cut the deck to get the most out of compression and ceramic coated the pistons for high octane fuel.. and everything else was stk.. exp for the plug wires plugs and the time settings.. so that particilar motor beat a turbo'd 2.2 sunfire.. lol.. like 3 days after i built that motor.. now that civic is in the talks of being a full all our dragger.. so yea.. i know muh D15s...
sounds like a fast *** car!....what year civic is it in....like an 88-91 hatch??..cuz those are sooooo dope!...this is my whip...enjoi!




