I'm leaking oil into my coolant and vice versa so i'm gonna go get my headgasket replaced and get my head milled. While the head is off, is there anything else I should go ahead and do? I'm going to change the timing belt and water pump another time because they're still good and can be accessed on the outside.

Also, since I had oil running into my coolant how should I go about flushing the entire system? Should I get a bunch of that prestone coolant flush and run it through my system a couple times? Or should i just run water through my coolant system a few times until only clean water comes out when I drain it?

And what about the coolant in my oil? Should I change the oil when I put the head back on then seafoam it and change the oil again after a few hundred miles since there was coolant in it?

Thanks

 

up

 

sea foam I would also change the oil a little bit earlier after that also.

 

Put a cam gears and cam shafts in

 

^no thanks. i'm just trying to get my motor running without any problems first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chowmien &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^no thanks. i'm just trying to get my motor running without any problems first.</TD></TR></TABLE>


in that case, make sure your timing belt had the correct tension. milling a head effectively make the timing belt "longer". depending on how much you had taken off, and if you are running a different thickness headgasket, the timing belt will not be tensioned properly even following the helms to a T. just spend a few extra minutes making sure the belt is ok will save you a possible hassle/disaster in the long run (rotate the motor a few times, then double check tension) good luck.

 

ARP head studs

 

Just run water through your cooling system for a few minutes. That should clean it out real good. If you mill your head then be sure to check the piston to valve clearance as that might cause the valves to hit the pistons, which wont be a good thing.

 

I just need it milled enough to get it flat so I won't be leaking oil or coolant into each other.

 

You sure your head is slightly warped? I would first check the condition of the head gasket and see if it's blown.

and to ARP head studs. Don't re-use your old ones (prolly already know that )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sure your head is slightly warped? I would first check the condition of the head gasket and see if it's blown.

and to arp head studs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I'm gonna have a mechanic check it out first and see if maybe the gasket was put upside down or something.

 

Ok how can I tell if the surface of the cylinder head is warped?

 

by using some sort of straight edge and running it across the surface of the head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARP head studs </TD></TR></TABLE>
make shure and put arp's in there, torque them to 60-65 ft./lbs with plenty of the supplied arp lube. BTW bauley, Im gonna steal your avatar........