i dunno if i ever posted what i did before on this site, but you can read what i did before. i even have video. i have since sold the car i installed the modded front engine mount to a friend but its still available to me, so i swapped the mount to my current CRX, which is bone stock, including original shocks and springs. the result is still total elimination of wheel hop when i dump the clutch (which i rarely do anyway, just did it to test). moreso, its just a crisper shift in general, initial throttle and acceleration is direct. the effects are definately noticable, while absolutely NO extra vibration, like i hear from those who installed poly fillers. also, i can say that installed poly bushings in the front radius rod did nothing for wheel hop, it makes me wonder why so many ppl stress aftermarket crossmember "traction bars" with spherical bearings are supposed to eliminate wheel hop. just fill the front engine mount with 10 cent rubber hose....

-----------------old post------------

stiffened my front engine mount the other day. i'd say the results are excellent. some might have read or heard i can now do burnouts without any wheel hop, where before i could never drop the clutch (nor did i really have the desire to, and really dont plan on keeping on doing it) all i used were a couple 1.5" cut piece of rubber fuel line hose 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID.

the result is an excellent feel after shifting as i apply the power. power delivery seems much smoother and direct. i have no more wheel hop. stiffer front radius rod bushings did not solve this for me. and, absolutely no extra chassis vibrations transmitted to the chassis as many complain about when putting in energy suspension poly bushing fillers. you can even see the big crack in the stock rubber. im quite happy, thought id share.



heres a video that shows before and after. the difference is not dramatic, but you can tell the difference. the true difference can be definately felt, but not quite as easily captured for display...
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/videos/unfilled.wmv
http://www.norcalcrx.org/tyson/videos/filled.wmv

 

About time geez. nah nice little DIY.

 

Did you glue rthem in, i would think the vibration wwould cause them to fall out.

 

Check this website out. A lot better quality for about the same price!

http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

Its a dsm page put the information is usefull! I did this mod with the windo-weld on the front and left mounts and I have little to no wheel hop anymore on my poor old db9

 

If you did that to the entire engine you probably wouldn't see it move at all but the ride will be a lot rougher.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mntuner2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check this website out. A lot better quality for about the same price!

http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

Its a dsm page put the information is usefull! I did this mod with the windo-weld on the front and left mounts and I have little to no wheel hop anymore on my poor old db9 </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but that will have insane vibrations, and notice tyson said his doesnt have any...

 

thats pretty cool..i'm gonna go do it here in a few minutes. But my engine won't be here till this weekend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y49crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you glue rthem in, i would think the vibration wwould cause them to fall out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the front engine mount is bounded at each side, so the pieces are captured pretty well.

yeah, i know of the DIY silicone window weld whatever. i never tried it but that just seems messy... im happy with my results. and its reversible if i didnt like it.

 

I did the poly fill on my crx mounts. I loved it and it only cost about $5. Engine didnt move at all.

Yager-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [crx Hated it!!! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah but that will have insane vibrations</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really, felt a little newer almost like a honda certified used vehicle

 

i have the motor mount inserts, and my whole dam car feels like its going to vibrate apart...i dont see how that would be any less...

 

yeah, honestly the best thing is that it doesnt intruduce any extra vibrations. i think a few rattles have ceased actually. at this point im leaving my car totally stock unless it either helps or doesnt lower at all the comfort level of my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, honestly the best thing is that it doesnt intruduce any extra vibrations. i think a few rattles have ceased actually. at this point im leaving my car totally stock unless it either helps or doesnt lower at all the comfort level of my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i didnt mean you tyson, im thinking of taking out my inserts and doing what you did, but i dont see how the 3m stuff wouldnt be subject to vibrations considering you are making the mount not be able to move at all...doesnt seem right...

 

bump to see if any new info is out about this DIY....thanks

 

my engine is still running fine. no wheel hop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my engine is still running fine. no wheel hop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool i'm going to try this diy...

 

I did both inserts - worked out good so far. Thanks again Tyson

 

sweet budget mod will give it a try

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mntuner2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check this website out. A lot better quality for about the same price!

http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

Its a dsm page put the information is usefull! I did this mod with the windo-weld on the front and left mounts and I have little to no wheel hop anymore on my poor old db9 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did that on my 4g63t Colt and it worked great with little or no vibes.

 

has anybody tried using cable to tie down their upper control to the lower....i ask this because i saw this setup on a drag car...and i still down know why he did it the car..i'm guessing to elimate wheel hop right?

 

no, thats to eliminate wheel jacking when you torque the engine. not the same thing as wheel hop, and totally unrelated to what i did to the front engine mount. so start another thread or search if you want to know more about that...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, thats to eliminate wheel jacking when you torque the engine. not the same thing as wheel hop, and totally unrelated to what i did to the front engine mount. so start another thread or search if you want to know more about that...</TD></TR></TABLE>

my bad i didn't mean to thread jack....

 

i did it to all 4 of mine

 

I used a hotglue gun and melted glue into the front and side mounts, making them pretty much solid, cleaned it up and painted them and they look mint

Im sure you guys have felt hot glue dried before, its ******* hard as hell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mntuner2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check this website out. A lot better quality for about the same price!

http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

Its a dsm page put the information is usefull! I did this mod with the windo-weld on the front and left mounts and I have little to no wheel hop anymore on my poor old db9 </TD></TR></TABLE>

do DIY

any idea where to get this 'windo-weld' ?