im trying to figure out if i want to do a gsr swap or a Ls-vtec..stock B18c or B18a with Ls Rods P30 Pistons"for high compression" Milled b16 head..i just wana see what u guys think is beter.

 

personally i would go with a full gsr swap.even though the gsr costs more you will prolly have less problems with it,that a frankenstien motor.

 

aslong as u build ur motor correct you wont have problems

 

yea well i plan on building rite just for a daily driver..Chiped pwo, Skunk 2 In. Mani, 4-1 dc ex. mani, build the head right with type-r cams..all the goodies but just for a daily driver..my full race build is comming soon.

 

GSR LS/vtec is nice but as stated getting it built right is the key. I had an LS/Vtec but going to GSR for reliability and revability.

 

Gsr motor is too expensive..
lsvtec isnt expensive(when half assed)..But if you want to build it right it starts getting expensive..

I have a solution..Poor mans type-r
b18c block..
pr3 b16a head..
92-93 gsr tranny
pr3/pw0 ecu..

And if you have the extra money get some ctr pistons and ctr or itr cams,,

 

ls-vtec is the way to go. If you build it right, it will run great

 

well i thought about talk it over with my buddie im going to build a ls-vtec i just want a daily driver so an the gsr swap is like 3500 an i can build a ls-vtec for under a grand..i just want a 13 sec daily driver.12 on the bottle..maybe..i'll let u know how it pulls when i build it this weekend..thanx guys.

 

you better be careful trying to put an lsvtec together for under a grand. that doesn't sound like it's gonna be very reliable. all it sounds like you're doing is just putting a vtec head on an ls block. however there is more to it than that. try doing a little research on the matter before coming to a decision so quickly. you might find out that the gsr is the cheaper and more reliable swap. my brother has been putting an lsvtec together for about three years now (piecing together one part at a time) and made sure he left no room for error. and after all is said and done he's dumped a few grand into this motor. i'm not sure what the total cost is but i know it's well over 6 grand. now i'm not saying that you need to spend that much to make a reliable motor but you definitely need to spend more than a grand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFRue57 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you better be careful trying to put an lsvtec together for under a grand. that doesn't sound like it's gonna be very reliable. all it sounds like you're doing is just putting a vtec head on an ls block. however there is more to it than that. try doing a little research on the matter before coming to a decision so quickly. you might find out that the gsr is the cheaper and more reliable swap. my brother has been putting an lsvtec together for about three years now (piecing together one part at a time) and made sure he left no room for error. and after all is said and done he's dumped a few grand into this motor. i'm not sure what the total cost is but i know it's well over 6 grand. now i'm not saying that you need to spend that much to make a reliable motor but you definitely need to spend more than a grand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah he's right...If you want a proper built lsvtec that is going to be reliable then plan on spending alot of money

 

I raced an ls/vtec last week and it was on drag radials and i was on street tires. It was about a car ahead of me (he launched out better than me because i dont have drag radials)...3rd gear i start to pull him in and thats when he cut his car off. He spun a bearing. Only had the car for 2 weeks and was running i think 12.5 compression ratio i heard atleast...but who really knows. Basically i dont think he would have been ahead of me if i had a little better launch or was on drag radials. I usually launch better on street tires than i did that night but that is no excuse still. I would say a gsr is alot less street and ls/vtec isnt that much faster. But I havent rode in one either....so i can't compare the car really. Plus they hadnt tooken the car to the track yet because it was closed still...

 

ok this is what i have to do.ls block p30 pistons on Ls rods, replace all the bottom end barrings, type-r oil pump, get then head milled, belive me i wont spend no more then a grand.an remember its just a daily driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls4thGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok this is what i have to do.ls block p30 pistons on Ls rods, replace all the bottom end barrings, type-r oil pump, get then head milled, belive me i wont spend no more then a grand.an remember its just a daily driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You still have to machine the block to except the vtec head or you could buy one of those lsvtec kits for like $200..
You need b-series motor mounts
You need a tranny
You need a ecu
You need a clutch that will handle the power
And getting the head milled cost alot for the labor at a machine shop
You need to do the neccesary wiring changes
Also if you plan on revving over 8000rpm with the ls block you should get arp rod bolts,gsr block girdle,and balance the rotating assembly..Remember this is only neccesary if you plan to rev high,,The b18a/b block is very unstable after 7000rpm Because of the rod/stroke ratio and it vibrates alot and that vibration kills the motor and shatters the oil pump gear..
Balancing the rotating assembly will help with the vibration,,Arp bolts wont stretch like oem,and the girdle will make the block stronger and more united,,

 

i have a full Ls swap in my ef. Hasport mounts, c-m stage 4, Jdm S1 Trans, i have a chipped Pwo, a Ls-Vtec conversion kit was giving to me.only thing i need is main barrings and rod barrings.and ARP Rod bolts, and head studs.and a set of rings.

 

Yes, remember to have the machine shop line hone the girdle when they mate it to the block. Sometimes those guys arent very familiar when modifying honda blocks. Also run an ITR/b20 oil pump.

BUT

i would get a gsr and install ls rods(ARP rodbolts)/crank...

that, IMHO is the proper way to build an lsvtec.

 

it seems like for what you want to be doing a GSR motor would be way better. a ls/vtec is a really good turbo motor.... a GSR you can do both with but I would say it is a better "all motor" motor. So if i were you i would get the GSR. plus when you do all the building on the ls, it would probably be cheaper to do the GSR.. you just have to find a cable trans.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls4thGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok this is what i have to do.ls block p30 pistons on Ls rods, replace all the bottom end barrings, type-r oil pump, get then head milled, belive me i wont spend no more then a grand.an remember its just a daily driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls4thGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a full Ls swap in my ef. Hasport mounts, c-m stage 4, Jdm S1 Trans, i have a chipped Pwo, a Ls-Vtec conversion kit was giving to me.only thing i need is main barrings and rod barrings.and ARP Rod bolts, and head studs.and a set of rings. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, what about a timing belt, timing belt tensioner, head gasket, valve cover gasket set, water pump, oil pan gasket, pilot bearing, release bearing, the machine work to get the head onto the block, the machine work to get the pistons onto the rods, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator so it doesn't run lean, rehoning the cylinder walls, not including all the labor to do all this work? also it is not wise to reuse a clutch, and even if you were going to, i wouldn't use a clutch masters. a clutch masters is a pretty shitty clutch IMO.

 

welp the bottom end is complete, my buddy over at the mechine shop pressed my pistons and milled my head, i got my crank balanced..went an got Arp Head studs an Rod Bolts, Rings Greddy timming belt, ls/V-tec kit all ready to go..It kinda helps to have friends with parts laying around that they dont need.whoo hooo what an advantage i spent overall about 400 bucks.

 

hopefully it all hold up.
In your sig" TDO5H T3" tdo5h is a 14b dsm first gen turbo not a T3

 

I would say go gsr if you want the reliability like others already said. I personally like to rev the **** outta engines so thats one more plus for gsr. Some people like torque, but if you really think about it, you probably still won't make more tq than hp.

BTW, it's kinda annoying me already its Bearings not Barrings or whatever...

 

it should hold up..the motor should be complete by tomorrow..Bearings*..be sure to keep u updated..Tdo5h has a t3 flange right?