my brakes are starting to squeak so I wanna change the pads in the front...how do I go about this, how hard is this install, and are there any major risks..also what brake pads should I get..thanks

 

Its easy to do with the proper tools. You'll need a ratchet set, PB Buster or WD40, tool to push the piston back in the caliper like a c-clamp, jackstands and a jack. I would try researching for a guide on the net to help you through it, or a helms/haymes manual.

 

flat head screwdriver sometimes is needed if the caliper is hard to get off. use it to push the piston in a little

 

oem honda or better they are less noisey, no huge risks just tighten every thing back up they already mentioned getting the piston back

 

once you get the hang of it, itll take 15 min or less. jack up the car, take off the two 12mm bolts holding the caliper to the bracket. might need a scewdriver to gently pry it off. use a C-Clamp or the rental tool from autozone. spray the rotor with brake cleaner, put on the pads [make sure you put that goo that reduces squeel] put on the caliper, bolt it up. pump up the pedal. bleed if necessary. put on wheel. done

 

here is a good link

http://www.edmunds.com/ownersh....html

 

i have to change mine 2, will there be a difference if dont get the rotors resurfaced?

 

how far do you have to push the piston back to???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93blkej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have to change mine 2, will there be a difference if dont get the rotors resurfaced?</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends how your rotors look...look for high spots on rotor...uneven grooves...kinda hard to explain...rotors btw aren't that expensive and if you haven't changed them in awhile...it's probably time to anyways.

also, make sure you guys check to make sure your pistons aren't frozen and slide back into the calipers fairly easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kstreetcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how far do you have to push the piston back to???</TD></TR></TABLE>

all the way back...that way it'll be a hell of alot easier putting the caliper back into place...

 

so you push them all the way back, put the calipers in and then you are ready to go??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kstreetcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you push them all the way back, put the calipers in and then you are ready to go??</TD></TR></TABLE>

push the caliper all the way back...with the new pads in place, slide the calipers on them...tighten up the 2 bolts...spray it down with brake clean...get in the car...pump the pedal 3-5 times(pedal should start to feel hard) Start her up and test drive!

 

use a c-clamp and a thin block of wood. put the thin block of wood on top of the piston and press on it with the c-clamp, make sure that piston is flush with the inner caliper surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends how your rotors look...look for high spots on rotor...uneven grooves...kinda hard to explain...rotors btw aren't that expensive and if you haven't changed them in awhile...it's probably time to anyways.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive actually had to change them for months but the car only has 88k miles on them, is it time to change them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93blkej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ive actually had to change them for months but the car only has 88k miles on them, is it time to change them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

honestly...you'd have to see it yourself to know whether or not you need new rotors...there's a mic tool you could use too to determine wether or not you NEED them to get replaced. But i'd look for the most common problems that'll tell yah if your rotors are warped or bad...usually discolorment...(looks kinda like a rainbow)..grooves that are cut deep into the rotor.

Sorry...this is probably the best way i could explain things. its more of a gotta see them to diagnois.

 

ya i know what to look for but around how many miles do they usually go out? i havent looked yet though

 

also i should recommend CERAMIC pads...they are a bit pricey, but they are a hell of alot better then the others...also these improve brake distance, less noise, LESS brake dust(which is always a plus!) and greater life! Check into these.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93blkej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya i know what to look for but around how many miles do they usually go out? i havent looked yet though</TD></TR></TABLE>

rotors are hard to predict...some ususally warp or get bad right away if you have a bad piston or something else...some just last until they're not safe to drive on anymore(again using the mic tool)

Keep in mind...you may not have to get new rotors at all...you could just bring them into a shop and have'em cut pretty cheap also.

 

hey where is a good place to buy OEM pads??

 

Nobody mentioned checking/lubricating the slide pins and lubing the contact points on the pad/caliper bracket. http://www.midwayautosupply.co...?1208 Also if you have not changed your brake fluid recently its wise to pump out the old fluid in the reservoir,put new fluid in and bleed the system until you see the new clean fluid come out.

 

I did my front pads in 2 hours. took me a while to figure out which bolts on the back of the calipers to go at, and it was my first self brake job.

pull the wheels off, you'll see the calipers. There's two 12 mm bolts on them, take them off and pull the caliper off, set it on the rotor so it's not hanging by the brake lines and then you can just pull out the old pads and put in the new ones.

note: when you go to compress the piston back into the caliper, take the inside NEW pad and stick it into the caliper and compress it to push the piston back in.

If you use the c clamp by itself you very well could compress the piston so it goes back in cockeyed, then you'd have to buy a whole new caliper.

Then put the caliper back on the rotor and bolt it back on. Get in your car, turn it on and pump the brakes until you get the pressure back.

 

Replace pads #6
Replace pad shims #16
Replace pad retainers #14, #15, #23, #24
Remove pins, clean & relube them (don't mix them up) #21, #22
Remove boots, clean & add lube to the inside surfaces #18, #19, #20
Remove Sleeves, clean & relube them #25, #26
Lube all sliding surfaces between pads and retainers
Add a light coat of red brake goo to the backs of pads & shims

When you push the pistons back into the calipers with a big C clamp, make sure you take the cap off the brake fluid resivoire. Also make sure it doesn't overflow when you do this too (because it will).

I get all my OEM parts at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

You should buy a factory manual for your car http://www.helm.com. It shows you everything, and is what to have if you are a do-it-yourself kinda guy (best $60 you could spend)

Here is the brake assembly from a 92-95 civic (NON ABS, EX not included).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replace pads #6
Replace pad shims #16
Replace pad retainers #14, #15, #23, #24
Remove pins, clean & relube them (don't mix them up) #21, #22
Remove boots, clean & add lube to the inside surfaces #18, #19, #20
Remove Sleeves, clean & relube them #25, #26
Lube all sliding surfaces between pads and retainers
Add a light coat of red brake goo to the backs of pads & shims

When you push the pistons back into the calipers with a big C clamp, make sure you take the cap off the brake fluid resivoire. Also make sure it doesn't overflow when you do this too (because it will).

I get all my OEM parts at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

You should buy a factory manual for your car http://www.helm.com. It shows you everything, and is what to have if you are a do-it-yourself kinda guy (best $60 you could spend)

Here is the brake assembly from a 92-95 civic (NON ABS, EX not included).
</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanks for the picture man....as for buying a manual..I have a the actual SERVICE MANUAL that they give the service techs..bought it online..so I have all the pictures but I wanted to hear the process from actual people who have actual stories about it and I will use the Manual as a back up...thanks

 

Come on, No one in CA will help him out ?

If you lived by me, I would walk you threw it so you could handle it next time. But its not hard, just get out there and start doing it, or else your never gonna learn.

 

Just make sure you press the brake a couple times cuz the piston in the caliper isn't fully applied i.e. you won't have brakes right away if you don't press the brakes a couple times till it hardens.