What's the solution for a stripped rotor screw?

#22



Thanks.

 

I stripped the one on my old car, I had to drill a small hole through the center of the screw and use a broken bolt extractor kit to get it out. It was pretty bad. I've also heard of people using a dremel to cut a slot in the head of the screw and twisting it out with a flat head screwdriver like it was a flat head screw. I avoid this problem now by using an impact screw driver (the one you hit the end with a hammer and the force twists the shaft). It works wonders, I've used this method on my Honda, and customer Hondas for a while now and it works wonders every time.

 

EZ outs are just about the only option if you manage to strip them.

Next time get an impact driver (the kind you hit with the hammer) and get it out.

 

I've drilled them out before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EZ outs are just about the only option if you manage to strip them.

Next time get an impact driver (the kind you hit with the hammer) and get it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Got to agree with Ricey, impact driver if they are stuck. But since it's too late for that, go the EZ out way.

 

Just drill it out. I know alot of people that don't even use those screws. FYI when you put the new ones in, use a little anti-sieze.

 

it happen to me before but I broke the extractor in the screw. that definitely blows. a job that suppose to only take 15 mins, ended up 1 hour. I had to drill through the broken extractor drill bit and the stripped screw before I could finally remove the stripped screw. BTW I used a black & decker brand extractor when it broke(POS IMO). Got it out with my backup craftsmen extractor

 

Seems to be alot of opinions about replacing them. Some say you don't need 'em ..that they were used for factory assembly. I say bullsh*t. I'm convinced that without them even with the 80lb lug torque the rotor can move slightly on the hub. Not that it would be dangerous but my 4Runner does not have them and often when I start to back up from a stop I hear a slight clunk. It's the lug bolt making contact in the rotor hole. Torqued to spec. Annoying as hell.

 

sleeperciv that must have been on heel of a screw extractor. because once you break one off you have work hardened the metal and now is almost inpossible to get out unless you drill to the side of it or not much of the screw extractor was broke off. good job to you for getting it out you have props from me

 

I'm in the "they only use it for assembly" crowd. I haven't used em in 2 years. No probs.

 

this is what i usually do, and it works. when the screw is stuck and you cant get it to turn with a philips screwdriver, or you end up stripping. you should grab a flat head screw driver bit and hammer it into the stripped screw. you may need to mess around with different sized flat head bits to find one that fits good. once u get it in there, find the right sized socket that will fit over the hex end of the flat head bit. then get a ratchet, push the head of the ratchet toward the hub and turn.

that usually does the trick for me. oh and dont forget to soak them in pb blaster or something first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ablack934doorcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sleeperciv that must have been on heel of a screw extractor. because once you break one off you have work hardened the metal and now is almost inpossible to get out unless you drill to the side of it or not much of the screw extractor was broke off. good job to you for getting it out you have props from me</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol it was a learning experience all over again.

 

Anti sieze your best friend and worst nightmare all at the same time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alotawatts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Seems to be alot of opinions about replacing them. Some say you don't need 'em ..that they were used for factory assembly. I say bullsh*t. I'm convinced that without them even with the 80lb lug torque the rotor can move slightly on the hub. Not that it would be dangerous but my 4Runner does not have them and often when I start to back up from a stop I hear a slight clunk. It's the lug bolt making contact in the rotor hole. Torqued to spec. Annoying as hell.</TD></TR></TABLE>


There are quite a few other manufacturers that use idetical brake set-ups as honda and dont use those screws. I just recently did brakes on my dads escort. As soon as you pull the wheel off, the rotor is loose. Pull the caliper off and rotor just slides right off.

If there was movement in the rotor, there would also have to be movement in the wheel.
That does not happen, considering you have the proper lug nuts and everything is torqued.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm in the "they only use it for assembly" crowd. I haven't used em in 2 years. No probs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

CRXDrew...Okay ...considering all the problems / threads about these screws maybe it does'nt matter. Some replacement rotors don't even have the hole for 'em. No descision there.

 

that sucks but if u use the correct tools, then it wouldn't have stripped. the impact driver is ideal, its about 25 at sears, but anyone would do. The thing puts so much turning force, that u dont even need to tap it that hard. Well at least u know for next time. Good luck

 

the easy thing to do is to use an air hammer. get it in the screw head wherever you can and let it rip. thats how i do it at the shop i work at and have never had a problem. just make sure your going the right way to losen it. hope it works for you.

 

Thanks for you input guys. What's EZ out? I'm leaning toward drilling them out and not using any screws idea. That's the lazy solution, but I'm gonna try to dremel to cut a slot in the head of the screw and twisting it out with a flat head screwdriver like it was a flat head screw like CycloneBlue_1.6EL said. Going back the the battle in the morning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GapxGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for you input guys. What's EZ out? I'm leaning toward drilling them out and not using any screws idea. That's the lazy solution, but I'm gonna try to dremel to cut a slot in the head of the screw and twisting it out with a flat head screwdriver like it was a flat head screw like CycloneBlue_1.6EL said. Going back the the battle in the morning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's shade tree mechanic language for screw/bolt extractor

 

air chisle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm in the "they only use it for assembly" crowd. I haven't used em in 2 years. No probs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those screws are there for a reason, but none of us here know what that reason is for sure. I don't think they are used purely for the reason of assembly because they would only need one, and they wouldn't bother to sell them at the dealership. However, I don't think they are used to secure the rotor to the hub when braking either because the the torqued wheel does that.

This is what I think from a strictly neutral point of view: I think those screws are there to keep the rotor from contacting the studs when you put the brakes back together after a brake job. The wheel holds it down, but if it's not in the exact right spot, it may cause problems/vibrations. it's kind of hard to explain so here.

<U>Scenario One: This is a crude representation of what may happen without the screws in:</U>


<U>Scenario Two: And this the rotor centered with the screws in:</U>


I know the studs aren't that small compared to the rotor holes, but this is to give everyone an idea of what I'm talking about. In scenario one, if you bolt the wheel on top of the rotor like that, it's going to be touching the studs and may cause problems. In scenario two, it's not touching the studs because it's centered. I don't know, that's what I think... another brilliant engineering breakthrough for Honda.

 

i don't have an impact driver but i have been using a phillips bit from a kit like this...



in a set of needle nose vice grips...



a few quick taps with a ball peen hammer on the bit and the screws will turn out. never stripped one. in the event i come across a stripped one i just drill them out. once you drill the heads off and remove the rotor the threaded section usually backs right out without much problem [using vice grips].

 

..mm not gonna bother reading all the replys... kinda shocked there are so many. Just drill the screw out, no harm, no foul

 

One hole threads into the hub, the other one doesn't. That way you can pull a seized disc off the hub by threading a screw or bolt into the other hole.

And the disc gets centered by the hub so it doesn't matter if the studs aren't perfectly aligned with the stud holes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think those screws are there to keep the rotor from contacting the studs when you put the brakes back together after a brake job. The wheel holds it down, but if it's not in the exact right spot, it may cause problems/vibrations. it's kind of hard to explain so here.: </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I was talking about and my reasoning also but what about rear drums ? Those two extra holes are only there to break the drum loose with screws.