prep for painting 92 hatch
I'm gettin my 92 hatch repainted and would like some info on preping it. The car is orginally white and im getting everything repainted white again including the engine bay, door jams and rear hatch area.
Starting from the engine bay, im going to have the engine removed of course, and move the brake lines or any other accessories out of the way and mask the brake lines. Next how would I go about preping the surface for paint? Heard I only need to scuff it through with steel wool only, but do I need to clearn surface with any solvent or is wet sand needed?
The door and jams and the rear hatch area should follow the same procedure as above correct?
Also, Im going to remove most of the mouldings as possible, anyone know how hard is it to remove mouldings from the rear quater windows and the front windshield? I was told i have to cut through the window and actually taking out the windows if i'm going to replace the moulding because it it glued onto the window. If it takes experience to get it done, I will leave it to the professionals to do that.
Other then that, i'm going to have the body shop fix dents, prep the outer surfaces before they paint it, but i'm going to try to do a little sanding before having them take care of everything. I'm going to get a few new mouldings of they look like they need replacing but everything including bumpers and lights will be removed. Anything else I should look into to prep and get the work done right? If I was to do a good job preping the body before paint, would getting it painted at Maacco be a good idea, since they have a paint warranty? All I heard bad about Maacco is because they dont properly prep the car for paint, but is their paint also cheap? Thanks, please help trying to get the car finished
Starting from the engine bay, im going to have the engine removed of course, and move the brake lines or any other accessories out of the way and mask the brake lines. Next how would I go about preping the surface for paint? Heard I only need to scuff it through with steel wool only, but do I need to clearn surface with any solvent or is wet sand needed?
The door and jams and the rear hatch area should follow the same procedure as above correct?
Also, Im going to remove most of the mouldings as possible, anyone know how hard is it to remove mouldings from the rear quater windows and the front windshield? I was told i have to cut through the window and actually taking out the windows if i'm going to replace the moulding because it it glued onto the window. If it takes experience to get it done, I will leave it to the professionals to do that.
Other then that, i'm going to have the body shop fix dents, prep the outer surfaces before they paint it, but i'm going to try to do a little sanding before having them take care of everything. I'm going to get a few new mouldings of they look like they need replacing but everything including bumpers and lights will be removed. Anything else I should look into to prep and get the work done right? If I was to do a good job preping the body before paint, would getting it painted at Maacco be a good idea, since they have a paint warranty? All I heard bad about Maacco is because they dont properly prep the car for paint, but is their paint also cheap? Thanks, please help trying to get the car finished
for the "interior" parts. these some of these parts are like high pressured impact areas so imo i would go for max adhesion over looks. and wetsanding get sthe surface super slick, but in reality, it dont make a real good adhesion. just go in there with some 400, take off the clear, then get some 600 and thats my favorite painting surface.
as for prep work goes, get all the dents pulled. then bondo if neccessary, bondo is last resort.
for macco, many many many ppl here will discourage u from going there, but thats where i got mine done and my paint is all good and stuff. i sealed and primed my car myself. since i didnt trust my garage to properly dry my car so i just went to them for the base coat and they did a great job. they were straight forward to me telling me yes we only use one coat of each. but i asked if they would double each coat and they were like sure and i paid an extra bill.
this will probably be the only good macco experience u will hear
as for prep work goes, get all the dents pulled. then bondo if neccessary, bondo is last resort.
for macco, many many many ppl here will discourage u from going there, but thats where i got mine done and my paint is all good and stuff. i sealed and primed my car myself. since i didnt trust my garage to properly dry my car so i just went to them for the base coat and they did a great job. they were straight forward to me telling me yes we only use one coat of each. but i asked if they would double each coat and they were like sure and i paid an extra bill.
this will probably be the only good macco experience u will hear
good to hear that from you how long have u got the paint job and any signs of fading or anything, how many coats normally a good paint job use? all paint jobs have the clear coat over based coat right?
usually is 1 base 1 clear
its been about a year
fading is a no, just tell em to mix their uv protector into the clear. i paid the extra bill for the uv chemicals and double coat of base and clear. its lasting me until i get enough time to do it in the future. i know it wont last as long as other paintjobs but its better than rolling sharkskin in my opinion
edit: pics
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...57840
its been about a year
fading is a no, just tell em to mix their uv protector into the clear. i paid the extra bill for the uv chemicals and double coat of base and clear. its lasting me until i get enough time to do it in the future. i know it wont last as long as other paintjobs but its better than rolling sharkskin in my opinion
edit: pics
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...57840
your car looks nice glossy *** paint, maybe it is all in the prep work.. Anyways anyone know how to remove the mouldings from quarter windows and front windshield?
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