i have a first gen b16 in my rex. its mainly my daily driver but will be seeing the drag strip as soon as we get some warmer weather . hopefully next year i will be adding a turbo but for right now its stock. i was hoping to do a few engine mods prior to the turbo to keep myself occupied. I was thinking about replacing the cams with gsr's but after reading throught the archives some say that i will notice a slight difference but when i found a site and they said that first gen b16 were the same as GSR cams? should i put in the GSRs or should i be spending my money on something else?

 

I started with a stage 2 clutch and CM flywheel on mine. I figured I would be better being able to handle the power then make it.

 

intake headers and exhaust are always good to start off with

 

sorry
i have an intake and exhaust and a exedy clutch
as far as <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teler86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">headers </TD></TR></TABLE> well since i plan to turbo i don't want to waste $400 on a header.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking about replacing the cams with gsr's but after reading throught the archives some say that i will notice a slight difference but when i found a site and they said that first gen b16 were the same as GSR cams? should i put in the GSRs or should i be spending my money on something else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why not just get ITR cams?

 

first of all they are a lot more. second i have been reading through the archives and the make it sound like the GSR are better for boost than the ITR. i think the itr have longer duration and boost doesn't like longer duration.

hopefully that make sence and i get an A for a stupid noob to actually do some homework and use the search

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have been reading through the archives and the make it sound like the GSR are better for boost than the ITR. i think the itr have longer duration and boost doesn't like longer duration.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you wanted, "better for boost", then you shouldnt have gotten a b16. Vtec hurts you more than helps, LS would have been the way to go. just saying.

its your car, you know what you want to do to it, why ask someone?

 

[QUOTE=FdOoUoRr]

if you wanted, "better for boost", then you shouldnt have gotten a b16 [QUOTE]

im speechless

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first of all they are a lot more. second i have been reading through the archives and the make it sound like the GSR are better for boost than the ITR. i think the itr have longer duration and boost doesn't like longer duration.

hopefully that make sence and i get an A for a stupid noob to actually do some homework and use the search</TD></TR></TABLE>

ITR cams aren't that bad, somebody told me about how they swapped stock cams on a turbo B16 or B18C1 and replaced it with ITR cams and they made 30-40 WHP over stock cams.

I would say that you can forget about doing performace mods and start doing mods to get your car prepped for the turbo. That's what I'm doing right now. My turbo should be installed in 2-3 months, but right now I am installing all the little stuff.

here is a list of what I'm doing:

-Full Race crossmember
-EG half sized rad
-install golden eagle vacuum manifold
-install 3 gauge pod
-install boost gauge
-buy a spare water outlet for cylinder head and have it drilled and tapped for my water temp sender
-install water temp gauge (will do this same time as EG rad install)
-install greddy oil filter sandwich plate
-install oil pressure gauge (you can install a oil temp gauge if you want to)
-install Moroso catch can
-install Walbro high pressure 255lph in tank fuel pump
-relocate battery to trunk
-get an EMS (turboedit, uberdata, hondata, AEM EMS, etc)
-trim front bumper to fit with intercooler
-go to muffler shop, install turbo and manifold and have them weld DP and dumptube to correct length. Once done, take off turbo and manifold.
-buy spare oil pan and get it drilled have oil return bung welded on

Those are some of the things you can do. I actually got the Uberdata done first. I'm already pretty good at burning my own chips, and using UD is also pretty easy. So if you get an EMS first, you can install it and practice while your car is still stock.

If you dont have any of the stuff I listed, it could cost as low as $1300 if you get turboedit or uberdata, or as high as $1700-$2000 if you get Hondata or AEM EMS. That is assuming you buy everything new.

 

so basically don't but the cams and start buying other things for the turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically don't but the cams and start buying other things for the turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes just get it well tuned.

and no you cant boost a b16, it will blow up!

Heres one pulling and passing a sport bike in 3rd gear:

http://www.electrocity.ca/dru/efb16.mpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so basically don't but the cams and start buying other things for the turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yah, you can stick with your B16 cams for now. Maybe in the future when the turbo is installed and you have a friend that can lend you some ITR cams for a test, you can try them out and see what kind of power gains you get.

I also got your IM...that post was the second time I had to type everything because I accidentally closed out my browser window. my first one had the reasons for each part next to it.

I'll go ahead and give you a brief run down of why you need each one:

-Crossmember (needed for DP clearance, FR will clear 2.5" and 3" DP for sure)

-3 gauge pod (That's just what I'm installing, you can use whatever gauge configuration you want)

-if you get an EG halfsized rad, you wont have to worry about turbo/radiator clearance

-GE vacuum manifold (just another thing I'm installing so I dont have a mess of vacuum tees. I can use this for my BOV, WG, BC, and boost vacuum sources)

-spare water outlet (this is just how I'm installing my water gauge. You can do yours however you want)

-Greddy sandwich plate (IMO a lot neater then tapping the block. I can install the plate now and install what oil lines I need. There are three holes for oil feed and other oil gauges. When you dont use a hole you can plug it up with their supplied bolt)

-oil pres and oil temp (you're gonna wanna monitor your oil pressure. But you might wanna go with another gauge instead, like an EGT.)

-Walbro fuel pump (better to install a high flow pump now and work out the bugs BEFORE you install the turbo)



Modified by BlueShadow at 1:55 AM 1/20/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and no you cant boost a b16, it will blow up! </TD></TR></TABLE>

who said you cant boost a b16? i said LS would have been a better choice for someone who wanted to do a turbo application.

 

anyways...

I forgot to mention that it would probably be a good idea to upgade your ignition. I'm trying to decide if I wanna try running my stock ignition, or if I wanna just go ahead and upgrade it before the install.

I was thinking about maybe going with an MSD SCI and probably an HVC coil. Depending on how serious your setup is, you might wanna get an SCI or digital 6 and similar coil, or maybe just a MSD 6A and blaster SS coil if you are running a light turbo setup.