Yes, we are speachless. Friend of mine has done it!!!! He went the dark side!!!!

Setup:

Integra type-R
Thicker headgasket 9.2:1 cr
370cc injectors
Apexi VAFC 1
Walbro 255lph pump
Equal length header (that cheap *** ebay crap)
2.5 inch downpipe
AEM fpr
Vortech 8:1 fmu
HKS ssq blow off
Deltagate waste gate
missing link
ARP head studs
Unifit cat
Boost, oil temp, fuel press gauges
DRAG III kit
Turbonetics T3/T04e a/r compressor .58, a/r hot side .63 (watercooled)

0,65 Bar max. boost
358HP to the crank (310whp), 317nm

stock exhaust, still stock clutch, but our goal was 60hp less than now, so he has to spend some money on a new clutch soon I guess

We made 4 dynoruns. Wastegate has a 0.5 Spring. According to the gauge it does 0.75 bar from 7500 till fuel cut. Between 4500 und 7000rpm the gauge shows 0.3 bar. I think the problem on wg w/o electrnic boost controll is, that the spring is’nt closed all the way untill max boost is reached.


Wide Band Lambda shows till 7000rpm Lambda 0.73 – 0.79 which was in the range we like to have the Lambda Value. Above 7000rpm we was way to rich, down to Lambda 0.63. So we leaned it out with the VAFC to 0.73. Se the Dynosheet from run 1 compared to run 4. finetuning is worth it! We also lowered the VTEC x-over, so the line went out way smoother.

After run 4 we was statisfied with the results. The blue line ist the power to the wheels and the red one the power to the engine. I believe the power to the engine is more important, cause my ITR has a tranny for 290kmh and between 240 and 290kmh are 40hp more which are lost in DRAG. This car has about 35hp lost in drivetrain, while mine has about 80hp lost at 290kmh. When I look at my 430whp dynplot it whows only 40hp lost at 240kmh, but 80kmh lost at 290kmh

Important for us was, not to have too much tourque below 4500rpm, cause in the past we has 2 sleeve problems with low rpm tourque.

Pmax: max engine power – 358 hp
Prad: max wheel power – 312 hp
Pverl: drive train loose – 34,5 hp
Mmax: max tourque NEWTONMETER – 315 nm

Per 0.1 Bar boost = 26 HP.
per 1 psi = 18 hp






Thanks to BEN@IMPORTPARTS. Those guys are cool, they delivered me the parts to Europe


Modified by austrian type-R at 3:03 PM 1/19/2005

 

nice numbers hope to see pics of this beast soon ..

yeah Ben delivered my goods before in time , importparts gets

 

Was this on stock internals?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pompiuses &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was this on stock internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, thats right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Important for us was, not to have too much tourque below 4500rpm, cause in the past we has 2 sleeve problems with low rpm tourque.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why don't you want too much torque below 4500rpm? What difference will it make if it's below or over 4500rpm? Won't the sleeves crack either way if it's too much torque?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wide Band Lambda shows till 7000rpm Lambda 0.73 – 0.79 which was in the range we like to have the Lambda Value.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you convert Lambda to AFR?

 

I don't know exactly, it has something to do with cylinder pressure. A Engine profi can exlain that. I got it explained too, but forgot it I think.

I know Lambda 1 is 14.7:1

Lambda 0.8 is about 12.5?!?!

I dont know exactly, but in the www there are for sure some convertion sheets.

thanks

 

How much do you think would be too much torque below 4500rpm before the sleeves crack? How much would be too much over 4500rpm?

 

Was this w/ cam gears? I heard if U use the stock ex. cam the long duration on the valves might EGR the motor & cause the internals to get too hot. Thanks for all the info cause I'm considering a Drag Kit. Please keep us informed! So far sounds real good.

 

stock cams, no cam gears. Since the head is lifted now, the cam timing is a bit later than with stock gasket.

I would'nt go over 250nm below 4500rpm, which shouldt be possible witha big turbo like this and 1.8 litre displacement

 

plots are online

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock cams, no cam gears. Since the head is lifted now, the cam timing is a bit later than with stock gasket.

I would'nt go over 250nm below 4500rpm, which shouldt be possible witha big turbo like this and 1.8 litre displacement</TD></TR></TABLE> All that said, hows the low end torque before the spool? I was thinking of doing the thicker gasket & bring the compression down to about 9.5:1 but everyone I talk to says it's a bad idea cause U alter the quench zones so drasticly. But it seems to work for your friend.

 

What's the duty cycle on the injectors? I find that hp a bit alarming on the injector size. I would bet that they are close to 100% duty cycle. Also, do you have a video of the car in action?

Aloha,
Brandon

*edit - One more thing. I would VERY highly recommend that your friend get an exhaust gas gauge. This one is the most important of all!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was this w/ cam gears? I heard if U use the stock ex. cam the long duration on the valves might EGR the motor & cause the internals to get too hot. Thanks for all the info cause I'm considering a Drag Kit. Please keep us informed! So far sounds real good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me know if you need a good deal on the DRAG kit.

 

Another nice turbo'd ITR!

 

Thats a lot of power

 

Pictures of the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the duty cycle on the injectors? I find that hp a bit alarming on the injector size. I would bet that they are close to 100% duty cycle. Also, do you have a video of the car in action?

Aloha,
Brandon

*edit - One more thing. I would VERY highly recommend that your friend get an exhaust gas gauge. This one is the most important of all!</TD></TR></TABLE>

In the f/i Forum there is a FAQ. 370cc are good for 300hp on 43 psi 90% dutycycle. 15-20psi more fuel press + 100% dutycycle can do the job. oem Honda injectors are running on 100% dutycycle too

sorry, no vids yet

 

whats a newtonmeter?

nice R

 

i'm told anything over 230ftlbs (dynapack, not dynojet) is pushing it. HP doesn't matter. you can make 1,000hp, as long as you don't go over 230ftlbs or torque.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In the f/i Forum there is a FAQ. 370cc are good for 300hp on 43 psi 90% dutycycle. 15-20psi more fuel press + 100% dutycycle can do the job. oem Honda injectors are running on 100% duty cycle too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting. However, wouldn't the needle valve in the injector tend to float at 100% or is an injector "regulated" to compensate for this? Like, at the actual 100% duty cycle the needle would float allowing too much gas into the combustion chamber so the manufactuar makes the injector go up to an actual 98% but calls it 100%. Another example if this is confusing: Your car says it can go 150mph on the speedometer, but the governer kicks in at 145 to keep the engine from going ****...something like that.

Aloha,
Brandon

 

Good #'s. Not to sound like a dick but that fuel setup looks like a ticking time-bomb. Then again I understand that $$$ plays a vital role too.

 

haha, 145 - 150 mph.....I was not saying it so accuarte, sorry. The top end speed also affect on tire dimension. We mounted a big tire for the dyno to have enough ground clearence.

Newtonmeter is about 1/3 more than lbs tourque. 200 lbs are about 265 newtons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good #'s. Not to sound like a dick but that fuel setup looks like a ticking time-bomb. Then again I understand that $$$ plays a vital role too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought we will get about 300hp with this setup. If I only knew that we get out 360hp, I had chosen 440cc...but we never thougth it will reach so much hp.

 

You misunderstood me. No worries. I was merely commenting on the duty cycle because at 100% duty cycle of anything, that "anything" has reached it's full capacity, it's limit. So not only would it by highly dangerous to run something at it's 100% duty cycle but any more and it would be over it's duty cycle then eventually fail on you.

So that being said, I was wondering if the efficiency of the injector at 100% duty cycle would be worse than say if it was at 98% where it is still efficient, but not maxed.

Also, I was simply wondering if the manufactuar built in some margin just incase someone like your friend, ran the injectors at 100% but they are not actually 100% per manufactuar specs.

Aloha,
Brandon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I was simply wondering if the manufactuar built in some margin just incase someone like your friend, ran the injectors at 100% but they are not actually 100% per manufactuar specs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The duty cycle is manufacturer independent. 100% duty cycle is 100% duty cycle, there is no margin.

Duty cycle is a measurement how long a circuit in on vs. off.

It is recommended to not exceed 85% duty cycle.