i just got my alignment done today after the H&R sport install... i would guess 2.0 drop front to back... i dont really know how to read the spec sheet, so i need some help from you guys... would i need a front camber kit? any recommendations on camber kits? tia.


this is a spec sheet of the before and after.. its a little blurry but i wrote the specs. a few threads lower...


this is a spec sheet before i got anything adjusted...




Modified by Mike813 at 2:57 PM 2/4/2005

 

It's always good to have a little bit of camber, but I'd think -1.5 and -1.8 are getting a little too high. I'd suggest getting the camber kits.

Are the wheels perpendicular to the ground or are they slanted inwards like /------\ instead of |------|?

 

from just looking at it... it looks normal,,, but tread wise the drivers inner lefts tire rubbing off quicker than the others... the charts the before and after the wheel alignment... you think its alright/safe if i drive around with the new alignment?

 

the camber is on the border of what you might want for street driving.. if you like taking corners, then you can leave it.. if you just cruise, you might want to dial it back to about 1 degree..

the caster is fine and within spec.. your toe is pointing a little too far out.. you should have it set closer to 0..

 

make sure u get your toe readings adjusted within specs because that will eat up your tread very quickly

 

Your camber is fine, that toe in is what is going to wear your tires out. Have them set the toe at 0 degrees.

 

the first pic is kinda hard to see... but the current measurement is at


l. front camber -1.6 / r. front -1.8
l. front caster 2.5 / r. front 2.1
l. front toe .02 / r.front .03
total toe. 0.04
steer ahead -0.01

L. rear camber -1.4 / r. rear -1.6
l. rear toe .08 / r. rear .04
total toe .12
thrust angle .02

so the best is to leave everything but set the toe to 0??? to prevent tire wear.?

 

i was just basing off the 2nd pic since i can't see the 1st one..

if the front toe is .02 and .03, then that's fine.. i saw the .3 in the 2nd post and that's too much..

although the rear is within spec, you might want to set it to 0 (+.05) within that range. with the camber you have in the rear, the factory toe-in spec will wear out your rear tires faster than you would like.

 

great, thanks for all the help everyone

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by urbanlegend21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your camber is fine, that toe in is what is going to wear your tires out. Have them set the toe at 0 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this guy. Fix that toe it'll wear your tires WAY faster than camber. I have about the same camber on my accord.

 

Definitely fix the camber if this is a daily driver. Give me a call or Im and we can talk more. 888-359-0448

 

hmm.. didn't know peter posted on this message board.. great guy to deal with.. i bought my camber arms from him..

of course, i went the other route.. not to decrease camber, but to increase it.. lol.. (pic is before adjustment.. -3.6 degrees camber).. i dialed it back a little to -2.8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syclone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm.. didn't know peter posted on this message board.. great guy to deal with.. i bought my camber arms from him..

of course, i went the other route.. not to decrease camber, but to increase it.. lol.. (pic is before adjustment.. -3.6 degrees camber).. i dialed it back a little to -2.8

</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is off topic, but where did you get your headlights from? did u retro fit them urself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iand415 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...did u retro fit them urself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes.. i put up a diy on my website..
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/...1.htm

 

dope... thanks

 

Hi everyone, a car that has changes made to the suspension such as stiffer springs as in the case here reduces body roll which in turn reduces camber change under cornering. Might I suggest camber that's close to factory specs(just a tad more negative) and adding caster with a caster kit. Extra caster causes a negative camber change when cornering(when the wheel itself is actually turned) improving turn in and your directional stability in a straight line is improved as a result of extra caster, a plus in my opinion. This way you do not have to have a large amount of static negative camber which is no good for tires but still have enough negative camber under cornering conditions. A good compromise for daily driven street cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scud8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi everyone, a car that has changes made to the suspension such as stiffer springs as in the case here reduces body roll which in turn reduces camber change under cornering. Might I suggest camber that's close to factory specs(just a tad more negative) and adding caster with a caster kit. Extra caster causes a negative camber change when cornering(when the wheel itself is actually turned) improving turn in and your directional stability in a straight line is improved as a result of extra caster, a plus in my opinion. This way you do not have to have a large amount of static negative camber which is no good for tires but still have enough negative camber under cornering conditions. A good compromise for daily driven street cars. </TD></TR></TABLE>
good suggestion, but we can't get much caster out of our accords.. we can get about slightly over 3 degrees if you do everything possible like shimming and sliding the cross brace foward.. that's not much compared to my friend's m3 which i set to 7.5 degrees just by sliding a few bolts

but in honesty.. camber isn't all that necessary or important for daily driven cars. i doubt if anyone really notices the handling benefits of -0.8 or -1.8 on the streets. i would recommend just saving tires by reducing camber. however, if you have to weigh buying a camber kit vs. leaving the current camber at -1.8, i would just leave it at the current setting rather than buying an expensive kit. most ball joint camber kits are so poorly made that i would avoid it if all possible.

 

K-mac makes a camber-caster kit for the 98-02 accord. These guys are based in Australia. Expensive kits though but they are reputed to be high quality, well engineered kits.

 

i put this in the suspension forum but n oreponse from them, so im just following up after the install and ran into some small problems.. check it out


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1138372