I have a couple of questions, any help is appreciated.

1) I have built a Y8 and am in the install stage. I was wondering should I install my cam now, or wait till the break in period of the motor is through then install? By the way the cam is a delta 272.

2) The cam is suppose to have a break in period or 2000 rpm for 15 min. How would I accomplish this without sitting there for 15 min with my foot on the throttle (by the way since this is a newly built motor after the cam break in period should I go ahead and change the oil again?)

3) My new clutch kit says it requires a 500 mile break in period. What exactly do you do to break in the clutch properly?

4) I read somewhere about when you build a motor you should take it through all the RPM range within the first 25 min to help the rings seal...yet I have always been told to take it easy below 3k for the first 3k miles and change the oil every 500 miles. Which would be better?

A local H-T guy is coming next weekend and we are installing all this so I am trying to get everything in order. Thanks in advance!

 

i can answer one question....get a piece of card board fold it and put it where your throttle cable hooks up to it makes a gap and it will create a "stuck throttle" effect....(sorry if you dont understand)

 

as for 2000rpm
just drive around town and shift at 2000rpm or do what ls vtec said

to break in the clutch
dont drop the clutch or anything
drive around town shift normaly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NACvicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a couple of questions, any help is appreciated.

1) I have built a Y8 and am in the install stage. I was wondering should I install my cam now, or wait till the break in period of the motor is through then install? By the way the cam is a delta 272.

2) The cam is suppose to have a break in period or 2000 rpm for 15 min. How would I accomplish this without sitting there for 15 min with my foot on the throttle (by the way since this is a newly built motor after the cam break in period should I go ahead and change the oil again?)

3) My new clutch kit says it requires a 500 mile break in period. What exactly do you do to break in the clutch properly?

4) I read somewhere about when you build a motor you should take it through all the RPM range within the first 25 min to help the rings seal...yet I have always been told to take it easy below 3k for the first 3k miles and change the oil every 500 miles. Which would be better?

A local H-T guy is coming next weekend and we are installing all this so I am trying to get everything in order. Thanks in advance!</TD></TR></TABLE>

1) If the new cam is too radical for you to control/know how to control with air/fuel then i would say wait. You don't want to break in the engine with a new cam if your idle is going to be revving up and down and having a horribly rich or lean condition in your combustion chamber. No harm in breaking in with stock cam and swapping...i did it, but only because i didn't have the cam in my posession right away.

2) Like above just drive around shifting smooth and slowly not stressing the clutch.

3) Personally, i don't like the idea of beating a motor in right after startup, BUT some do it and have the same results. I really think it matters how well built the motor is. IE...tolerances, gaps, assembly lube...keeping all that in mind.

I started off only revving to 2500rpms with cheap regular 10w30 for first 50 miles. Then switched to cheap 5w30 oil for 200 miles. After that every 200 miles i would change oil and raise rev limit +500rpms untill i got to redline (7500).

After the first few hundred you're really only changing oil on a fully built motor because of chemical reasons, rich mixtures causing fuel contaminated oil or lean mixtures breaking down oil. Any break in metal flecks should be gone by the time you change oil/filter first time.

All my experience comes from a fully build y8 with 12.25:1 compression, crower 3 cam, alaniz comp. head, balanced bottom end, new bearings, much more, etc, etc, etc.

I put down a SMOOTH torque curve with 143whp/112wtq on a dynapack that later proved to read 10% lower than dynojet. Estimated power (to be confirmed in a few weeks) at 160+whp/125wtq.


D-series.com thread of Builthatch and I
http://www.d-series.org/forums...ntjam

Have fun with your Y8

Vince

 

ok, on the motor rebuild, hope you had as much fun as I did, lol. The break in period is the most critical. What I have done in the past and also the present is, break it in the way you are going to drive it. Every one knows that you are not going to drive it like your Grandmother, so if I were you, I would pay attention. I'm not saying I know it all, but I have been working on cars since I was 16(24 now). N E Way

1. I would not put the cam in for the break in period.

2. Do not use any synthetic oils for the first 1500 miles, put the cheapest oil you can find in it first.

3. After initial start up, let the car idle for about 5-7 minutes, then idle (rev) the car up to 2000 or 2500 rpms for about 5 minutes. Please put some gas in your car. You don't want to start all this and that biyatch be sittin on/under the E for those of us who are broke from the money we had to spend on this Mo Fo.

4. Shut the car off and immediately change the oil and the filter. This is to get the metal shavings, dirt, gasket material, and any other debris that may have been in any of the oil gallies out.

5. Put new oil in car and also a new filter (cheap).

6. Start the car and let it idle few 3-5 minutes (the car should still be a little warm because it shouldn't take that long to change the oil). Please don't forget the oil drain plug. I know the oil you found was only $0.99 and the oil filter was like $5.00, but hell that's a half a tank of gas (93 octane $1.79), and a half tank goes a long *** way.

7. Hop on in the car and take off down the road (needs to be one that no one else is going to be pissed off at you for speeding up and slowing down a lot, and also needs to be close to you).

8. Get the car rolling down the road and at a very low speed and shift into third. Do a full throttle acceleration untill you have to shift into fourth, but don't shift. Let off the gas completely, and let your car slow down on it's own. Repeat this process for a while (or untill the POLICE ask you what the hell you're doing). This process burns in the rings, so to speak.

9. Go back home and change your oil, yes change your oil again (filter too damnit). This will get rid of any metal from the rings wearing to fit the cylinder walls.

10. Put your high dollar cam in, and get your timing adjusted right.

11. Put what ever your favorite brand of oil in your car, and also filter, just so long as it is not synthetic. Not yet, the good stuff is yet to come. The rings will still be breaking in up untill about 1500 miles, but not as much in the first full throttle acceleration period (third gear pull).

12. After 1500 miles, yep you guessed it, oil change time!!!!! YYYEEEEAAAAA!!! If you've been waiting for that synthetic stuff, put that **** in there and leave me alone about it. If you don't like synthetic oil, well you should put some in your new motor N E Way!!!!!! That **** just makes other **** last longer!!

13. Now drive that Mo Fo like you stole it. Just don't go crashing it like you really stole it, lol.

14. Don't get in your car first thing in the morning and start it up and immediately rev that Mo Fo up to 7200 rpm. Incase you were wondering that is bad for it. And let your car warm up when you first start it for that day, because you don't roll out of bed a just take off running in a dead sprint to the grocery store, do you? Let your car stretch a little when you wake it up. This ain't boot camp!!!

hope this helps you a little

 

I have heard that before. I am scared to do this though, I really want this engine to last me a long time. Anyone elses input on this?

 

go to mototuneusa.com and click on break in secrets. I did a search on break in secrets for you. Do some research and see what you think. A guy I know that builds motors for Larry Shaw Racing, Carl Young, uses this method. You'll be suprised how long a 350 small block that's putin' out about 750 hp will last. Did I mention that that's at 7500 to 8000 rpm on a dirt track.

I'm just making a suggestion, but it also works.

I've got a '90 crx d15b2 fully rebuilt motor and the head has been rebuiltand I added a d16a6 cam also it's port and polished. It's got a '92-'95 intake manifold, the motor is 9.5 to 1 compression ratio with six pounds of boost from a T3 with a SSAUTOCHROME turbo manifold, waste gate, and 3 inch down pipe into 2.5 pipe at the resinator which is now located where the cat. used to be all the way out into a MagniFlow Can on the end. 3 inch piping from the intake all the way through the long *** front mount intercooler. Stage 2 Woosh blow off valve. The motor was making 121 hp with out the turbo and 209 hp with it. It already has 2500 miles and still no smoke.