hi,
If i am getting Dry Shot NOS...should i get engine management ? Something that retards the timing when i NOS it...is there any such ECU ? i dont want something overly expensive...give me a few sugestions and is such a setup ossible with dryshot ??

thanks

 

just get a wet kit and you ahve less to worry about

 

Its worth the extra $$ for the wet kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OzWolfbane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi,
If i am getting Dry Shot NOS...should i get engine management ? Something that retards the timing when i NOS it...is there any such ECU ? i dont want something overly expensive...give me a few sugestions and is such a setup ossible with dryshot ??

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of car/engine do you have? with a dry kit you do not need a engine management because you really should not run more that a 75 shot(rated to the flywheel). if you want to run higher than that you should invest in a DP nitrous system.

 

If you have an obd 1 system, you can retard the ignition
manually by adjusting the distributor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have an obd 1 system, you can retard the ignition
manually by adjusting the distributor </TD></TR></TABLE>



First, it's not "engine management", it's usually just an ignition box w/ a switched retard function. Second, you don't really need an ignition retard for nitrous till you start stepping up past the 100 shot, when the timing actually needs to be pulled a good bit.

 

wrongola dude....

you ever used nitorus (not being an *** just an honest question)

you need to retard the timing ESPICALLY with dry to reduce the risk of detonation...N20 burns faster than fuel so it will ping if the ignition isnt backed off a degree or so.


i retard mine 2 degrees and shoot 65 shot wet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ruler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrongola dude....

you ever used nitorus (not being an *** just an honest question)

you need to retard the timing ESPICALLY with dry to reduce the risk of detonation...N20 burns faster than fuel so it will ping if the ignition isnt backed off a degree or so.


i retard mine 2 degrees and shoot 65 shot wet</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I do. I have an H23 VTEC stroker I built by myself; I am running a 75 shot custom wet kit on 11.1:1 compression.

On a stock-compression H22, you can run up to a 65 shot without retarding the timing at all. I personally recommend 1 degree of retard and one step colder plugs on a 55 and 65 shot, and a 2 degree retard on a 75 shot. Although i haven't sprayed a 100 shot on my current motor, I would try running 4 degrees retarded when spraying.

One or two degrees of retard will not hurt you much off the bottle; that's within the shop manual's spec. 4 degrees can def. be felt, and you will be losing time when not spraying. It is when you are cutting a significant amount of timing when spraying that you will want to get a retarding ignition box.

Also, a dry and wet nitrous kit behave the same; the same amounts of fuel and nitrous are being shot into the combustion chamber, just by different methods. It is not 'especially' important to retard on a dry kit, they are both the same in that respect.

So.........still hold your opinion?

 

actually i do, but i dont relly care about other peoples opinion on it, i dot it a safe way...extra precautions...

 

I only retard timing when I hit the smokescreen switch. THAT is when it's especially important. I can't deal with pinging when I'm evading the man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OzWolfbane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi,
If i am getting Dry Shot NOS...should i get engine management ? Something that retards the timing when i NOS it...is there any such ECU ? i dont want something overly expensive...give me a few sugestions and is such a setup ossible with dryshot ??

thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

aaaaaa its not NOS its nitrous

 

I know Nitrous , N20 , Nitrogen Di Oxide but easiest to say is NOS !!! (u prefer Zex ?)

I dont want to go Wetshot cause
A. Harder to Install
B. Dont want to give engine that kind of power cause i want it to last.

I want the car for normal street use mostly so I dont want to drive all the time with retarded timing thats why I want something that retards timing when i hit the switch.

Also I am getting some Iridium Plugs should I get them or I need cold spark plugs or something ???

thanks for all the help

 

you arent sopposed touse iridium with nitrous...and wet you can shoot 50 shot and such, its not just for stuff thats big, but its your choice, and get one step colder plugs

 

ok heres the oddball car i guess. I have a h22a vafc 2 "tuned" with bolt on's, msd stuff and a 75 wet shot WITH NGK irridium's NO Retard i've have had no probs at all my car runs like a champ. Tell me why you cant you'se irridiums? I belive a 75 shot only needs 1 degree retard not 2 or 3 get a good msd setup and have your car in badass runing condition and ull be ok. o ya i have about 130k miles on the motor.

 

yeh why do u say u cant use iridium ? whats the disadvatange of cold plugs on normal street use ?

 

tehy say its got to do with the "no exposed electrosed" or somthing, i cant remember the exact woirds, but its got to do with extended/open electordes...again cant remembe rthe exact wording but you can blow off the tip of the plug which will be bad news...check out holly's webpage for nos nitorus and it will have install instructions and tehy reccomend that you only use normal, non-fancy plugs, just colder

 

spark plugs.com says with NOS dont use platinums but iridium has had no problems....coming back to engine managemnet....what am i looking for my needs do i need one ???

 

The way a spark plug works is by makeing a spark too cut tru the gas mix under presure. The reason irridiums are so good is that they requier less power to do that. Now on the heat issue there are reasons that are logical but why about the actual metal? makes no sense. Its just some people talking **** about how there car broke because of the plugs, you have to look farder than that. heat range is the only factor for engines noting eles. They make spark thats it.

 

sorry, thought iridium were in the same family as platnum, my bad, now i know

 

off subject but which is worse for your engine? wet or dry

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5200BB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">off subject but which is worse for your engine? wet or dry</TD></TR></TABLE>

wet.

 

no its not....how is it worse???


its better for your motor, cause you inject fuel and nitrous....that how you manage fuel...


dry just injects nitrous and tries to force your injectors to put out more fuel, but thats not good if you are already at the limits....it jsut puts a vaccum on your FPR and tells it to kick up the rpeassure...not a good way to do things

 

but with dry u r only pussing 50-75 so it doesnt do stuff as bad as u potray it to do...

back on my topic plz...does anyone know if there is a ECU that will do what i want it to do or any NCU ?

 

There is nothing wrong imo with using a little extra precautions
and retarding your timing 2 deg for a 50-75 shot.

As far as an ems, check out hondata.com

I don't know about finding a tuner in the "land down under" though

 

yeh If i do he'll ask for my pink slip to tune it

i want names of something specifically suited for my needs, do i even need to do that ?