Okay, so any tips here? I have the Helms manual but not sure what parts I may need to do this install.

The kit came with some new copper washers, and some bolts of some type. Not exactly sure what to do with these parts.

Anything else I need? Someone had mentioned crush washers?

Thanks!

 

10 and 12mm socket
10, 12, 14 and 17 mm boxend wrenches
slip joint pliers
adjustable wrench


equip. to bleed brakes.

 

What are slip joint pliers?

I have a socket set and some open ended wrenches so I think I am set there.

 

aka.........channel lock pliers

 

WTF...............regular pliers.......you know, has two sizes..........

slip joint


channel locks are different


[Modified by B18CXr, 6:40 PM 1/10/2002]

 

i like to break ****.....go figure

 

Hey onyx00 let us know if the goodridge lines maintain the same pedal feel. If they do I would assume the internal diameter is close to stock. I can't seem to find an answer on which lines have a good ID and which don't. Thanks.

 

Yeah, I am going to call Goodridge and ask them.

From what I heard from others, the pedal will be loose for about a week and then firm up again.

Well, I got like 20 bottles of ATE TYP 200 fluid, so I will do some good bleedng to make sure the lines are clean of air.

 

Why exactly does the inner diameter matter?


[Modified by 98ITR461, 7:05 PM 1/10/2002]

 

Oh, kewl, I gotta buy some of those then. Any suggested size??

 

what's up Larry? i met you at CMP in november

I think if the inner diameter of the line is less than or the same as stock the pedal feels firmer. if the new lines have a larger diameter then the pedal is mushy

 

i cannot comment because you did not buy stoptech brake lines

 

What's your rationale on this? The larger dia lines have more fluid, which compresses more and feels mushy. vs. a smaller dia which has less fluid to compress? What about the amount of force you can get from thinner lines vs. thick?

I'm lookin to do SS lines myself, so I'm just trying to educate myself.

Also, why would the pedal feel go soft for a while, then return to normal, or even firmer? Can anyone explain this?

-Floyd

 

it doesn't.

D

 

You were in the black ITR, right? Parked down near us - I remember ya!

Seems to me....and I'm not the brightest HID in the movie theatre parking lot....but I'm imagining a brake line as large as a garden hose. Now, I fill the system w/fluid. Since the lines are frikken huge, I'm putting more fluid in. Ok. That we can understand. Now, when I press the pedal, let's say I force one ml of fluid into the garden hose, from the MC. That's gonna force one ml out of the hose, into the caliper. If I change it to a stock sized line...don't all of the metrics remain the same? One ml into the line means one ml out. The only diff I see is that the smaller line holds less fluid.

If I'm clueless....someone pls give me one!

 

One thing to remember...fluids are nearly incompressible (e.g. hydraulic cylinders/hydraulic fluid). If any compression occurs at all it is infinitecimal.

You will get a mushy pedal due to air in the lines. Air is easily compressible.

-kenji

 

a good tool to have is one of those box end wrenches with a slit in it to go over the brake line onto the tightening nut, damn I can't remember the proper name for them, is it a flared end wrench or something like that ?. Anyways they help prevent you from stripping the the nut on top of the metal brake line when loosening or tightening (as they grip more areas of the nut as compared to an open ended wrench). The nuts seem to be very soft and can strip easy. On the Civic it is a 10mm wrench that is needed, I believe the ITR would be the same.


Joey


[Modified by JSIR, 5:51 PM 1/10/2002]

 

and rags to wipe up to brake fluid that will drip all over the place. As implied above, you'll need more brake fluid to top off the M/C after all the new lines are put on and bleeding the system. I put SS brake lines on my car about 2 months ago and the brakes have never felt better -- it's a very worthwhile upgrade.

 

i read it in a few threads. The one that stuck in my mind was from George Knighton

"This is a problem we had back in my Porsche days. Everybody wanted brake lines that provided a firmer pedal feel, but many brands were mushier. We finally figured out that the lines we liked had a smaller internal diameter than the lines that felt mushy. The mushy lines were actually a larger internal diameter than the good lines."
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=50619

it seems from responses that others disagree. one way or the other, i plan to install the goodrich SS lines around march

 

Did they feel better right away, or did it take a while for them to firm up?

To determine which ones have a smaller diameter, and if you had the lines off your car, you could measure how much liquid they can hold, then measure the Goodridge lines to see if there is a difference. That's assuming they are the same length.

 

It took them about a week or two to really firm up, but I attribute that to the fact that I was also in the process of seating new front brake pads (Hawk HP+s) on new front rotors (Brembo blanks). As long as you take the time to properly bleed the system and then do a pressure test to check for leaks, I'd think that you should be able to feel the difference right away.

 

Neo - shouldn't we add "and don't blow the master cylinder while completing the installation"???

hehehe -
BudMan - who has a heavy foot during installation apparrently!

 

[QUOTE]Neo - shouldn't we add "and don't blow the master cylinder while completing the installation"???[QUOTE]

Good point, BudMan! <shuddering at the memory of the botched speed bleeder installation job> Boy, you can count on me NEVER having that happen again.

 

Wait, can I get some details here; what do you mean don't blow the master cylinder?

 

I was afraid someone would ask that question... Look what we started, BudMan

I had the rear seal on my master cylinder go out on me while bleeding the brakes when I was installing speed bleeders on my car back in October. The cause of this is debateable, but I believe was due to pushing the brake pedal all the way to the floor while bleeding which causes the steel rod inside the M/C to go past it's usual stopping place (i.e., further into the M/C). Doing so causes the rear rubber seal on the M/C to be exposed to part of the steel rod that is beyond what it usually deals with (because with normal brake usage on a healthy brake system the pedal does not go to the floor), and therefore is likely not to be as smooth and polished as the front part of that rod. Some people are able to bleed their brakes by pushing the pedal all the way to the floor without any problems (BudMan is one of them) but I know of at least one other individual with a GSR who had the same thing happen to him. And maybe this is less of an issue with an ITR because it has a more robust M/C. I dunno... But, hence forth, I will ALWAYS use a small block of wood under the brake pedal when bleeding the system to prevent the pedal from traveling all the way to the floor. Care to add or clarify anything I said, BudMan?




[Modified by Neo, 10:35 AM 1/11/2002]