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right radius rod (installing clutch)

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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 01:11 PM
  #1  
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Default right radius rod (installing clutch)

the helm tells me i need to remove the right radius rod. There are 2 bolts in between the damper fork that are "self locking bolts" i have tryed to get them off but wont budge, The only tool that will go in there is a 17mm wrench. I put the wrench on the bolt and then beat the wrench with a hammer and it still wont move. Any tips on how to get the "self locking bolts' out? Whats the purpose of removing the right radius rod?


Modified by 92hondalude at 6:32 PM 1/13/2005
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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 02:22 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

Well, I take it you've never tried to drop the tranny on a 4th gen prelude. It has the potential of being the most frustrating thing ever if you try it with the right radius arm in. You'll be out there for hours cursing at your transmission. As for the bolts, you just need to get a lot of torque on them. I've used the hollow handle/bar from my 3 ton jack to stick on the end of the wrench handle to magnify the torque. They came off like butter that way. If using one bar or pipe won't work, extend it. Otherwise, use an impact wrench. Other than that i don't know what to tell ya.

By the way, a porpoise is a type of sea mammal. They kinda look like dolphins; some can be bigger some can be smaller.
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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 02:30 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (PreIudeSI)

haha i dident even notice that spelling error. did you replace the 2 bolts? there is not enough room to put a long bar on theres a maximum of 2 inches you can move the wrench. maybe i missed a step
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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

if there's not enough room maybe you should take the damper fork out. you only need to take off 2 bolts to get the damper fork off their and i'm pretty sure it will give you more room. then just get a 17mm socket with socket wrench and a 6' bar like i had. came off with minimal effort
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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (yOnKiNaToR)

did you take off damper fork? if i take damper fork will my tourc wrench fit in there? 6 foot or 6 inches of pipe did you use?
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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

and do i have to take the radius rod off the drivers side of just passenger side?
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Old Jan 13, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

well, i took everything off for a bushing install but i'm almost positive then when i removed the fork, it gave me a lot of room to use my socket wrench and a 6 FOOT bar on it. that's a little overkill though (i need it being a 130 pound weakling). you could get a way with like a 2 or 3 footer; just apply more muscle.
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 03:37 AM
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Default Re: right radius rod (yOnKiNaToR)

k all i get get was a 2 footer i will see what i can do
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 06:26 AM
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

I've resorted to using heat from a torch to loosed those friggen bolts.

I do find that a 1/2 inch impact gun tend to work extremely well with a universal impact joint (swivel) attached.

Gerhard
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (gerhard)

well i couldent get those bolts off to save my life so i said **** it and put it all back together and im taking it to a shop and get it done for 300 thanks for the help anyway


Modified by 92hondalude at 6:38 PM 1/14/2005
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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Default

for 300 bucks you can get a craftsman air comp. with starter kit !!!trust me air is the way to go ...just my 2cents
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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Default Re: (fastprelude60657)

i used air with 155psi it dident budge it was a craftsman too
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: (92hondalude)

could you not put enough muscle into it or did you snap a wrench or something? if you couldn't put enough muscle into it, get a bigger bar! if you had the muscle, but snapped a wrench, then use air. also, soak the bolts in pb blaster once or twice. also use a 6 pt socket...

or you could always drill them out. just make sure you have a nice plug-in drill with good bits or you'll be drilling for days.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 07:11 PM
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Default Re:

I removed my right radius rod recently to remove/install my tranny.... I just used a regular 1/2" Socket wrench... I did have the damper fork already removed but it didn't take tons of effort to unbolt the rod...
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Old Jan 21, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (gerhard)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've resorted to using heat from a torch to loosed those friggen bolts.

I do find that a 1/2 inch impact gun tend to work extremely well with a universal impact joint (swivel) attached.

Gerhard</TD></TR></TABLE>

how long did you have the heat on there wouldn't the ball joint belt after a while because the heat will travel on the metal to the ball joints

(i think im going to retry this project again)
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Old Jan 21, 2005 | 03:11 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

Heat direcly on the area around the bolts... don't get to close to the ball joint - It'll be fine.

If you have an oxy-acetalyene torch... that'll work better... (no cutting! -grin-)

If you have a ball joint puller... that'll remove the tie rod and ball joint connections tot he suspention fork... and then the fork can be pulled out of the way...

(The radius rod still needs to come out...)
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Old Jan 21, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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Default Re: right radius rod (gerhard)

oh man, I've done this 10,000 times, mine never freeze on there because I always take those stupid things off, haha. Anyhow like everyone is saying you need to pull of the fork and then maybe take off the shock to get it out of the way(they're all really easy to take off) and then you will be able to get a socket on 1 bolt, but the axle will be in the way of the other one, so you either try and get it off with a regular wrench again or you can try putting something under the wheel hub like a jackstand or something and you should be able to get a socket and breaker bar on it, and if you cant get it off with that then put a 4 ft cheater bar on the breaker bar and it will either break....or come off gl
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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Default Re: right radius rod (gerhard)

i have a swivel for a wrentch will that work on a impact gun?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've resorted to using heat from a torch to loosed those friggen bolts.

I do find that a 1/2 inch impact gun tend to work extremely well with a universal impact joint (swivel) attached.

Gerhard</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do i do if the head breaks off?

I tryed to get the fork off but the fork wouldent spread apart far enough to get it off the lower arm
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 08:58 AM
  #19  
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

The head broke off?

Jesus... I'm not sure if a backout will work on something like that...
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #20  
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Default Re: right radius rod (gerhard)

it dident break off i just said what if it did.
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 11:21 AM
  #21  
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

bump
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 01:39 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

how do i spread the fork apart
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 03:54 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

bump it there a special tool that pulla apart the front shock fork or do i just pull on it hard
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 06:27 PM
  #24  
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Default Re: right radius rod (92hondalude)

If you mean to seperate the fork from the shock itself, then you just remove the two bolts on the fork and take it off... If it hasn't been removed before it might take some effort but it just slides off...
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