rotors
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From: Long Beach, NY, USA
rotors
Does Rotors needs to be cut everytime you change the pads? or maybe once every two times you change the pads?
I know it all depends.. but I just wondering because the shops always want to charge me for cutting rotors.
I know it all depends.. but I just wondering because the shops always want to charge me for cutting rotors.
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From: USA
Re: rotors (wpsadmin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wpsadmin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know it all depends..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You said it yourself...
I know it all depends..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You said it yourself...
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: rotors (wpsadmin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wpsadmin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does Rotors needs to be cut everytime you change the pads? or maybe once every two times you change the pads?
I know it all depends.. but I just wondering because the shops always want to charge me for cutting rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Same brake pad/pad material? No.
Going from carbon kevlar to a metallic? You should, but you can get away without it. Cobalt Friction recommended a longer break-in when doing that, but also recommended I get new/machined rotors anyway.
I know it all depends.. but I just wondering because the shops always want to charge me for cutting rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Same brake pad/pad material? No.
Going from carbon kevlar to a metallic? You should, but you can get away without it. Cobalt Friction recommended a longer break-in when doing that, but also recommended I get new/machined rotors anyway.
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From: Chicago
Re: rotors (Chris F)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Same brake pad/pad material? No.
Going from carbon kevlar to a metallic? You should, but you can get away without it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Another option when changing pad material is to scrub the faces of the rotor with garnet paper or scotch brite pads, to buff off any old pad material, then follow the usual bedding procedure.
Above assumes that the rotors are true (flat, with no vibration when braking). If the brakes vibrate but only during heavy braking, then there are uneven deposits of pad material on the face of the rotors, and you need to re-bed the pads. If the brakes vibrate even during light braking, then the rotors may actually be warped, in which case you can have them turned (cut), or just buy new ones.
Going from carbon kevlar to a metallic? You should, but you can get away without it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Another option when changing pad material is to scrub the faces of the rotor with garnet paper or scotch brite pads, to buff off any old pad material, then follow the usual bedding procedure.
Above assumes that the rotors are true (flat, with no vibration when braking). If the brakes vibrate but only during heavy braking, then there are uneven deposits of pad material on the face of the rotors, and you need to re-bed the pads. If the brakes vibrate even during light braking, then the rotors may actually be warped, in which case you can have them turned (cut), or just buy new ones.
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From: Chicago
Re: rotors (mikestypeRR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikestypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried that ... the prices have gone up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not according to Autozone's website (which I've found corresponds to what they charge at their stores). Their "Duralast" rotor (part number 3296) is still $24.99.
Not according to Autozone's website (which I've found corresponds to what they charge at their stores). Their "Duralast" rotor (part number 3296) is still $24.99.
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From: richardson, tx, US
Re: rotors (wpsadmin)
just install the pads.. and see what happens.
when i install pads for friends, i just ask if they ever feel any vibrations when braking. If no, just install the pads. It might take longer for them to seat, but they will eventually.
Ex. I've had PFC pads on my rotors for 3 yrs... replaced brake pads with cheap albany ones. I noticed the rotors has a slight indentation from the old pads to fit perfectly.. but the new pads didnt fit into the indentation perfectly. Slapped it on anyways and within a wk or 2, i find that the pads have fully seated. But during that 2 wks, its not like its dangerous to drive it or anything, its just not as responsive as it should.
when i install pads for friends, i just ask if they ever feel any vibrations when braking. If no, just install the pads. It might take longer for them to seat, but they will eventually.
Ex. I've had PFC pads on my rotors for 3 yrs... replaced brake pads with cheap albany ones. I noticed the rotors has a slight indentation from the old pads to fit perfectly.. but the new pads didnt fit into the indentation perfectly. Slapped it on anyways and within a wk or 2, i find that the pads have fully seated. But during that 2 wks, its not like its dangerous to drive it or anything, its just not as responsive as it should.
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From: Chicago
Re: rotors (mingbling96)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mingbling96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just install the pads.. and see what happens.
when i install pads for friends, i just ask if they ever feel any vibrations when braking. If no, just install the pads. It might take longer for them to seat, but they will eventually.
Ex. I've had PFC pads on my rotors for 3 yrs... replaced brake pads with cheap albany ones. I noticed the rotors has a slight indentation from the old pads to fit perfectly.. but the new pads didnt fit into the indentation perfectly. Slapped it on anyways and within a wk or 2, i find that the pads have fully seated. But during that 2 wks, its not like its dangerous to drive it or anything, its just not as responsive as it should. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's a difference between "seating" and "bedding" that you are ignoring.
Seating is the process of getting the surfaces of the pads and rotors to meet uniformly. As you note, they will do so all by themselves soon enough, without any special procedure required. This is all that is needed if you only drive your car on the street and you never drive it hard.
OTOH, bedding is the process of getting the brake pads and rotors hot enough that the pads leave a uniform layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor. This is the procedure that is being discussed in this topic. The purpose of doing so is to prevent a layer from accumulating which is NOT uniform, which could lead to shudder produced by "hot spots" on the surface of the rotor. This is why proper bedding is recommended for anyone who drives his car on the track, or drives really hard on the street, in order to avoid shudder and other problems.
when i install pads for friends, i just ask if they ever feel any vibrations when braking. If no, just install the pads. It might take longer for them to seat, but they will eventually.
Ex. I've had PFC pads on my rotors for 3 yrs... replaced brake pads with cheap albany ones. I noticed the rotors has a slight indentation from the old pads to fit perfectly.. but the new pads didnt fit into the indentation perfectly. Slapped it on anyways and within a wk or 2, i find that the pads have fully seated. But during that 2 wks, its not like its dangerous to drive it or anything, its just not as responsive as it should. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There's a difference between "seating" and "bedding" that you are ignoring.
Seating is the process of getting the surfaces of the pads and rotors to meet uniformly. As you note, they will do so all by themselves soon enough, without any special procedure required. This is all that is needed if you only drive your car on the street and you never drive it hard.
OTOH, bedding is the process of getting the brake pads and rotors hot enough that the pads leave a uniform layer of pad material on the surface of the rotor. This is the procedure that is being discussed in this topic. The purpose of doing so is to prevent a layer from accumulating which is NOT uniform, which could lead to shudder produced by "hot spots" on the surface of the rotor. This is why proper bedding is recommended for anyone who drives his car on the track, or drives really hard on the street, in order to avoid shudder and other problems.
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