engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,892
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From: OK
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
did you check the sticky thread at the top for pros/cons of all of them?
What are your future plans? Boost, N/A...
Daily driver or race car?
What are your future plans? Boost, N/A...
Daily driver or race car?
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 980
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From: Kills Official Truck Quality Assurance Manager, USA
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
exactly, we kinda need to know what you wanna do to the car. In here you are going to see people that love to drag race, autocross, or run over other cars. 
It all depends on your taste. Give us some more details of what you want and it will help out greatly.
It all depends on your taste. Give us some more details of what you want and it will help out greatly.
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Torrance, CA, usa
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
I read the sticky but would like your guys opiion also. I have a '95 EX coupe I believe it has the D16Z6 engine. I'm looking to go turbo and to at least get into the 13's if not faster in the 1/4. I was thinking a B16C swap but not exactly sure since I a not familiar with these cars. My previous car was a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 that ran a best of 12.1 in the 1/4 and I'd like to get somewhere near to that and still keep it a daily driver type of car as much as possible. Also for you Socal peeps can you recomend for someone that can do the work that has a good rep?
Thanks and sorry for the hijack.
Thanks and sorry for the hijack.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
all your answers are here.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=979961
i just realized that was in the wrong forum but now its not
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=979961
i just realized that was in the wrong forum but now its not
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,638
Likes: 1
From: Near Charlotte
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1109463
I search and found this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1016251
Honda-Tech.com » CRX / EF Civic » **The Official "What's the best engine for my Honda" thread...the Answers inside*** [Archived]
ALSO DJ ERIC P your in the wrong place. I would venture over the the EG forum they will be better able to assist you.
I search and found this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1016251
Honda-Tech.com » CRX / EF Civic » **The Official "What's the best engine for my Honda" thread...the Answers inside*** [Archived]
ALSO DJ ERIC P your in the wrong place. I would venture over the the EG forum they will be better able to assist you.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,892
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From: OK
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ Eric P »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read the sticky but would like your guys opiion also. I have a '95 EX coupe I believe it has the D16Z6 engine. I'm looking to go turbo and to at least get into the 13's if not faster in the 1/4. I was thinking a B16C swap but not exactly sure since I a not familiar with these cars. My previous car was a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 that ran a best of 12.1 in the 1/4 and I'd like to get somewhere near to that and still keep it a daily driver type of car as much as possible. Also for you Socal peeps can you recomend for someone that can do the work that has a good rep?
Thanks and sorry for the hijack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, there is no B16C.
If you want to go with SOHC, to get to the 13's you should go forced induction (turbo). You could go B-series, likely your best bet there would be to go turbo too. It's cheaper to do D-series turbo, plus if you blow it up, those engines are a dime a dozen. You have to decide how much $$$ you want to spend for the engine, and then how much to reach your goal.
Thanks and sorry for the hijack.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, there is no B16C.
If you want to go with SOHC, to get to the 13's you should go forced induction (turbo). You could go B-series, likely your best bet there would be to go turbo too. It's cheaper to do D-series turbo, plus if you blow it up, those engines are a dime a dozen. You have to decide how much $$$ you want to spend for the engine, and then how much to reach your goal.
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From: Torrance, CA, usa
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Oops sorry wrong forum, I guess mods changed it to right forum cause I remember seeing it somewhere else.
My budget is $5K so how far can I go with that?
My budget is $5K so how far can I go with that?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 3
From: honky in, nc, usa
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
12s? its easy to make power its a different thing to put it down. u will need 300 to 400 hp and slicks. b16 sleveed, 84mm pistons, 8.5:1, gt28sr turbo and aem managment. slicks. lots of money good luck
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 16,612
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From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12s? its easy to make power its a different thing to put it down. u will need 300 to 400 hp and slicks. b16 sleveed, 84mm pistons, 8.5:1, gt28sr turbo and aem managment. slicks. lots of money good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need 300-400whp to run 12's.
There are plenty of N/A people pusing 200whp or so running mid/low 12's. Hell I ran 13.3@104mph on a shitty 2.0 60 footer with only 165whp on tap!
So you have $5,000.00 to spend eh? Is this cash money, or are you going into debt out your *** for the $5000.00? If you're borrowing the money to build a car then I'd say no doubt get the swap that comes with the most stock whp and leave it mostly stock with bolt-ons. The last thing you want is to borrow $5,000.00, build some turbo or N/A build, then blow it up and owe money for years to come on a set-up that you can no longer drive.
Any swap in your car will be more os a PITA though because of the dual-point to multi-point fuel injection conversion, but fortunately it has been covered here on H-t and it can be done if you're patient.
I say get a B18C1 engine swap. They go for about $3,200.00 or so. Sell the hydro tranny for a cool $700.00, buy a closer geared J1/S1 cable tranny for about $400.00, then use the $300.00 towards a good mount kit like HASport. Get rid of the GS-r intake manifold now that you've got closer gears, then get a Skunk2 manifold and run the engine on a first-gen pre-OBD B16A ECU.
I say do all of that because:
1. The mount kit to convert the car to a hydro tranny is more expensive, and the labor is more intensive
2. Getting rid of the manifold is easier than running an OBD1 GS-R P72 ECU or trying to hook up the secondary butterfly junk to a rpm activated switch.
3. the skunk2 manifold would work well with the shorter geared tranny, and it is better suited for the "Type R" cams and beyond.
4. Running a pre-OBD B16A ECU will be more plug and play than trying to go OBD1.
A GS-R engine with the shorter tranny and Skunk2 manifold should run very, very well in an EF. Add some mild cams such as Type R or Skunk2 stage 1, and have it tuned with a V-AFC and fuel pressure regulator and it'll rip hard as hell.
Depending on the year of your car and the weight, I'd say this set-up would be a sure-fire 13 secind car on street tires.
You don't need 300-400whp to run 12's.
There are plenty of N/A people pusing 200whp or so running mid/low 12's. Hell I ran 13.3@104mph on a shitty 2.0 60 footer with only 165whp on tap!
So you have $5,000.00 to spend eh? Is this cash money, or are you going into debt out your *** for the $5000.00? If you're borrowing the money to build a car then I'd say no doubt get the swap that comes with the most stock whp and leave it mostly stock with bolt-ons. The last thing you want is to borrow $5,000.00, build some turbo or N/A build, then blow it up and owe money for years to come on a set-up that you can no longer drive.
Any swap in your car will be more os a PITA though because of the dual-point to multi-point fuel injection conversion, but fortunately it has been covered here on H-t and it can be done if you're patient.
I say get a B18C1 engine swap. They go for about $3,200.00 or so. Sell the hydro tranny for a cool $700.00, buy a closer geared J1/S1 cable tranny for about $400.00, then use the $300.00 towards a good mount kit like HASport. Get rid of the GS-r intake manifold now that you've got closer gears, then get a Skunk2 manifold and run the engine on a first-gen pre-OBD B16A ECU.
I say do all of that because:
1. The mount kit to convert the car to a hydro tranny is more expensive, and the labor is more intensive
2. Getting rid of the manifold is easier than running an OBD1 GS-R P72 ECU or trying to hook up the secondary butterfly junk to a rpm activated switch.
3. the skunk2 manifold would work well with the shorter geared tranny, and it is better suited for the "Type R" cams and beyond.
4. Running a pre-OBD B16A ECU will be more plug and play than trying to go OBD1.
A GS-R engine with the shorter tranny and Skunk2 manifold should run very, very well in an EF. Add some mild cams such as Type R or Skunk2 stage 1, and have it tuned with a V-AFC and fuel pressure regulator and it'll rip hard as hell.
Depending on the year of your car and the weight, I'd say this set-up would be a sure-fire 13 secind car on street tires.
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 16,612
Likes: 55
From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: (civic_jdm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_jdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just do it....Type R or H22..go ***** out</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18C5 swap will cost WAY over the alotted $5,000.00, and exactly how easy do you think an H22A swap is into an EF chassis?
B18C5 swap will cost WAY over the alotted $5,000.00, and exactly how easy do you think an H22A swap is into an EF chassis?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: atlanta, ga, USA
Re: engine swap whats the best engine to throw in<<<<<<<<<<<<<
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You don't need 300-400whp to run 12's.
There are plenty of N/A people pusing 200whp or so running mid/low 12's. Hell I ran 13.3@104mph on a shitty 2.0 60 footer with only 165whp on tap!
So you have $5,000.00 to spend eh? Is this cash money, or are you going into debt out your *** for the $5000.00? If you're borrowing the money to build a car then I'd say no doubt get the swap that comes with the most stock whp and leave it mostly stock with bolt-ons. The last thing you want is to borrow $5,000.00, build some turbo or N/A build, then blow it up and owe money for years to come on a set-up that you can no longer drive.
Any swap in your car will be more os a PITA though because of the dual-point to multi-point fuel injection conversion, but fortunately it has been covered here on H-t and it can be done if you're patient.
I say get a B18C1 engine swap. They go for about $3,200.00 or so. Sell the hydro tranny for a cool $700.00, buy a closer geared J1/S1 cable tranny for about $400.00, then use the $300.00 towards a good mount kit like HASport. Get rid of the GS-r intake manifold now that you've got closer gears, then get a Skunk2 manifold and run the engine on a first-gen pre-OBD B16A ECU.
I say do all of that because:
1. The mount kit to convert the car to a hydro tranny is more expensive, and the labor is more intensive
2. Getting rid of the manifold is easier than running an OBD1 GS-R P72 ECU or trying to hook up the secondary butterfly junk to a rpm activated switch.
3. the skunk2 manifold would work well with the shorter geared tranny, and it is better suited for the "Type R" cams and beyond.
4. Running a pre-OBD B16A ECU will be more plug and play than trying to go OBD1.
A GS-R engine with the shorter tranny and Skunk2 manifold should run very, very well in an EF. Add some mild cams such as Type R or Skunk2 stage 1, and have it tuned with a V-AFC and fuel pressure regulator and it'll rip hard as hell.
Depending on the year of your car and the weight, I'd say this set-up would be a sure-fire 13 secind car on street tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18c5-eh2 is right on track. i already have a gsr swap and im looking at getting the S2 intake and a set of mild cams as well as a ANR (don't flame yet im still thinking.) im running this in an EG but the crx I had a little over 5 months ago had the cable tranny and the rest of this set up minus the .2 liters. i had a b16. My point is that it was heavily reliable and the power was there. i never ran the Qtr. but i chased down and passed a few R's in my time, but that was on a mountain road. remeber the chasis your running with this setup gives you the ever precious Torque and you have a lightweight chassis to boot. This setup sounds right by me.
You don't need 300-400whp to run 12's.
There are plenty of N/A people pusing 200whp or so running mid/low 12's. Hell I ran 13.3@104mph on a shitty 2.0 60 footer with only 165whp on tap!
So you have $5,000.00 to spend eh? Is this cash money, or are you going into debt out your *** for the $5000.00? If you're borrowing the money to build a car then I'd say no doubt get the swap that comes with the most stock whp and leave it mostly stock with bolt-ons. The last thing you want is to borrow $5,000.00, build some turbo or N/A build, then blow it up and owe money for years to come on a set-up that you can no longer drive.
Any swap in your car will be more os a PITA though because of the dual-point to multi-point fuel injection conversion, but fortunately it has been covered here on H-t and it can be done if you're patient.
I say get a B18C1 engine swap. They go for about $3,200.00 or so. Sell the hydro tranny for a cool $700.00, buy a closer geared J1/S1 cable tranny for about $400.00, then use the $300.00 towards a good mount kit like HASport. Get rid of the GS-r intake manifold now that you've got closer gears, then get a Skunk2 manifold and run the engine on a first-gen pre-OBD B16A ECU.
I say do all of that because:
1. The mount kit to convert the car to a hydro tranny is more expensive, and the labor is more intensive
2. Getting rid of the manifold is easier than running an OBD1 GS-R P72 ECU or trying to hook up the secondary butterfly junk to a rpm activated switch.
3. the skunk2 manifold would work well with the shorter geared tranny, and it is better suited for the "Type R" cams and beyond.
4. Running a pre-OBD B16A ECU will be more plug and play than trying to go OBD1.
A GS-R engine with the shorter tranny and Skunk2 manifold should run very, very well in an EF. Add some mild cams such as Type R or Skunk2 stage 1, and have it tuned with a V-AFC and fuel pressure regulator and it'll rip hard as hell.
Depending on the year of your car and the weight, I'd say this set-up would be a sure-fire 13 secind car on street tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18c5-eh2 is right on track. i already have a gsr swap and im looking at getting the S2 intake and a set of mild cams as well as a ANR (don't flame yet im still thinking.) im running this in an EG but the crx I had a little over 5 months ago had the cable tranny and the rest of this set up minus the .2 liters. i had a b16. My point is that it was heavily reliable and the power was there. i never ran the Qtr. but i chased down and passed a few R's in my time, but that was on a mountain road. remeber the chasis your running with this setup gives you the ever precious Torque and you have a lightweight chassis to boot. This setup sounds right by me.
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 16,612
Likes: 55
From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: (HOND PWR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HOND PWR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why not just buy a car with a swap allready? You should be able to get one for way under $5000.
Keep you car now for a daily driver
/</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a viable option, but with so many hackjob swaps running around, especially EF bodies, it'd be hard to find a well-built one with no major kinks.
If he does the work himself or has excellent mechanics do it for him then he can be assured the swap will run as it should.
Plus there's something to be said about building your own car rather than buying a done one IMO.
Why not just buy a car with a swap allready? You should be able to get one for way under $5000.
Keep you car now for a daily driver
/</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a viable option, but with so many hackjob swaps running around, especially EF bodies, it'd be hard to find a well-built one with no major kinks.
If he does the work himself or has excellent mechanics do it for him then he can be assured the swap will run as it should.
Plus there's something to be said about building your own car rather than buying a done one IMO.
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,668
Likes: 1
From: West Chester, PA, USA
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's a viable option, but with so many hackjob swaps running around, especially EF bodies, it'd be hard to find a well-built one with no major kinks.
If he does the work himself or has excellent mechanics do it for him then he can be assured the swap will run as it should.
Plus there's something to be said about building your own car rather than buying a done one IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You make some really good points. I remember when I did my first swap for my 4dr. I was really lost in the dark but with the help of ht it was easy to put my b16a in. And afterwards I was very satisfied that I did my own work and I knew the swap was clean and not a hack. I basically knew the car inside and out after doing the swap.
That's a viable option, but with so many hackjob swaps running around, especially EF bodies, it'd be hard to find a well-built one with no major kinks.
If he does the work himself or has excellent mechanics do it for him then he can be assured the swap will run as it should.
Plus there's something to be said about building your own car rather than buying a done one IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You make some really good points. I remember when I did my first swap for my 4dr. I was really lost in the dark but with the help of ht it was easy to put my b16a in. And afterwards I was very satisfied that I did my own work and I knew the swap was clean and not a hack. I basically knew the car inside and out after doing the swap.
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 16,612
Likes: 55
From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: (civic_jdm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_jdm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just cuz you have 13,xxx posts b18c5 to my 45ish, doesnt mean i dont know ****.. I just have better things to do then just sit on my comp..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow cry much?
I never said you "didn't know ****" bro. All I said is that for a guy with only $5,000.00 to spend your options are not ideal.
I own a B18C5 swap (but I got a whole totalled ITR for only $4,000.00 and sold all the **** I didn't use
) and I can tell you first-hand it can cost easily over $5,000.00 ESPECIALLY in an EF chassis because of the hydro conversion mount kit costing over $600.00.
Wow cry much?
I never said you "didn't know ****" bro. All I said is that for a guy with only $5,000.00 to spend your options are not ideal.
I own a B18C5 swap (but I got a whole totalled ITR for only $4,000.00 and sold all the **** I didn't use
) and I can tell you first-hand it can cost easily over $5,000.00 ESPECIALLY in an EF chassis because of the hydro conversion mount kit costing over $600.00.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: kendall, mi, usa
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
im sure you can tell me first hand..i also know there are deals out there. I have several buddys with itr motors in ef and eg civics . i just know that their are deals out there...not everyone has to spend that much on the first $4500 swap they see off hmotorsonline and pay 400 for shipping...so who ever said i was crying.....
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 16,612
Likes: 55
From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: (civic_jdm)
Well barring any amazing one-in-a-lifetime deals, the READILY AVAILABLE ITR swaps go for no less than $4,200.00 or so plus shipping.
Then you need the mount kit, shift linkages, etc. etc. With only $5,000.00 to play with the guy will be broke and have no car running.
I'm not here to get into a pissing contest with you bro. We're both trying to help the guy.
Then you need the mount kit, shift linkages, etc. etc. With only $5,000.00 to play with the guy will be broke and have no car running.
I'm not here to get into a pissing contest with you bro. We're both trying to help the guy.
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 16,612
Likes: 55
From: Southside ATL, GA
Re: (DJ Eric P)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ Eric P »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey I really appreciate all the feedback. Just remember I posted in the wrong forum and my car is an '95 EX coupe (EG) and not an EF. I thought about selling/trading this one and buying one with a swap already but I won't really know what condition the motor is in. I would like it done right the first time. Since I couldn't do it all myself I'll have to find a good mechanic and hopefully he can let me assist on the hard **** so I can learn first hand.
On the money part. I won't be going into debt I have some already put aside plus I'll be getting a hefty tax return. I'm no punk kid by any means. I have a wife, kids, house, new cars and the toys to go with it. I came across this civic for basically free (Brother bought a teg and sold me his civic). I'm getting back into the import scene but don't know too much about Honda/Acura (I had a Mits 3000GT VR4). I'm want to learn and then build complete engine setups myself. Since coming here I've learned alot already with what parts to get and a couple of other things.
Thanks again everyone to a cool and imformative forum!
-Eric-</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude no offense, but please start your own topic in the right forum. The entire time I've been posting I've been talking about the dude with the EF.
On the money part. I won't be going into debt I have some already put aside plus I'll be getting a hefty tax return. I'm no punk kid by any means. I have a wife, kids, house, new cars and the toys to go with it. I came across this civic for basically free (Brother bought a teg and sold me his civic). I'm getting back into the import scene but don't know too much about Honda/Acura (I had a Mits 3000GT VR4). I'm want to learn and then build complete engine setups myself. Since coming here I've learned alot already with what parts to get and a couple of other things.
Thanks again everyone to a cool and imformative forum!
-Eric-</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude no offense, but please start your own topic in the right forum. The entire time I've been posting I've been talking about the dude with the EF.
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Torrance, CA, usa
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dude no offense, but please start your own topic in the right forum. The entire time I've been posting I've been talking about the dude with the EF.</TD></TR></TABLE>No problem but I assumed you guys were talking about me since I'm the one that said I had the $5K budget.
Dude no offense, but please start your own topic in the right forum. The entire time I've been posting I've been talking about the dude with the EF.</TD></TR></TABLE>No problem but I assumed you guys were talking about me since I'm the one that said I had the $5K budget.