Ok I’m installing an AutoMeter Oil Pressure gauge and I want to take off the stock sensor since I don’t want to run a "T" and have problems. What are the negatives to doing this? I read in an older post that leaving off the stock sensor makes the ecu run a closed loop. Is that true?

 

That thing is there for a reason. Spend the ten bucks to get the fitting to T it and be done with it. I know with several turbo applications, including my Full Race system, they specified to T the sensor and plug it back in. It's a sensor, it senses which makes it's presence needed. Though I'm sure there are people out there who have taken it off and swear that you don't need it. Let's see what others say.

Aloha,
Brandon

 

Hmm, I just got a fire wall kit from good ol flamenco-t, it lets you run a line from the block to the firewall where you can mount all your accessories including the stock sensor which should not be removed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That thing is there for a reason. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Brass T's break. Careful. Sandwich plate is a better idea.

 

Well the reason I don’t want to "T" it, is because I’ve heard it can break and really don’t want that.
The reason I don’t want the firewall kit is because in my opinion makes the engine bay look cluttered and looks like ***.
The reason I don’t want the sandwich is because it’s expensive and I still have to buy a BSPT to NTP adaptor.

I can’t believe all the trouble you have to go through to install a damn oil pressure gauge.

 

sounds like you want to have your cake, and eat it too

just use the firewall distribution kit

 

Ha-ha yea I just want to make sure I make the right decision.
I guess ill go with the firewall kit. There are no disadvantages to using this right?
And do I have to mount it on the firewall? I think ill hide it somewhere under the intake manifold.

 

You have to mount it somewhere that can support the weight of the Autometer sending unit. It's a big bitch.

It's not that bad sitting on the firewall as long as the length of braided line isn't excessive so that you have to loop it or get creative with keeping it from rubbing and binding against other stuff. Wrap the braided portion in 3M Super 33+ electrical tape and ziptie the ends of the tape to keep the braid from chafing against wires and hoses. It can eventually wear a hole in whatever it rubs against.

 

I have a mechanical gauge so there's no sending unit, other then the stock one.

 

I tee'd my DEFI oil pressure gauge.

Just make sure you get GOOD fittings and lots of Teflon tape!

Many track hours and no problems

 

its not so much teh brass tee being weak, its more the fact that most people mount the autometer sensor directly to the block with a tee. if you've ever seen the size of those things, you'd know why its a bad idea to mount it directly to the block, your just askign for it to snap off.

best way to do it is to either Tee it off and run a flexable line from the tee to the firewall and mount your sensor on the firewall. or run a flexline from the back of the block to a tee and mount that and the two sensors on the firewall. either way you will have both sensors, and not have broken tees to worry about.

oh and imo the stock pressure sensor is pretty useless. its kinda like a "you just toasted your motor" light, than a warning light, , i'd just do away with the stock sensor and run a flex line straight from the block to the autometer sensor mounted on the firewall or soemthing

 

doesn't the ecu monitor the oil pressure via the stock pressure sensor? Will vtec even work if it's not there???

Oh, and if you're looking to add a T into the stock oil pressure circuit, read this first:
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/

 

The firewall kit you speak of, where the hell did you get it? I have recently installed a swap and did not install my elec. Autometer oil PSI gauge because I could not find the BSP style fittings. The link to the old one site:

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/

That drawing that is there, that is what I want to do. If anyone has those components or can lead me in the direction of someone who does please let me know.

P.S. I had a guage set up previously installed where the sending unit from autometer just hung off the back of the block, but it was so bulky I could not use the older OEM Honda filter. Anyways thanks guys.

 

http://www.fast-turbo.com/Turbolines.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan4g63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason I don’t want the firewall kit is because in my opinion makes the engine bay look cluttered and looks like ***.
The reason I don’t want the sandwich is because it’s expensive and I still have to buy a BSPT to NTP adaptor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....

A greddy oil filter adapter (sandwich) plate is ~$70. I'd rather have my engine bay "look like ***" then have busted fittings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....

A greddy oil filter adapter (sandwich) plate is ~$70. I'd rather have my engine bay "look like ***" then have busted fittings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... you sound like Arty


If you're worried about looks, then just get the Greddy adapter - it's the cleanest, simplest solution IMO.

 

Nix the teflon tape. Use Hondabond. Oil will soak through the tape and MAY cause a leak. I've used it before and it never leaked even though the tape was soaked through, and in other cases, it leaked.

The pressure sensor for the VTEC function is located in the VTEC solenoid.

If you need 1/8" BSPT (M) to 1/8" NPT (F) adapters, Stan sells them for $5.50. I always have a few on hand, just in case.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not so much teh brass tee being weak, its more the fact that most people mount the autometer sensor directly to the block with a tee. if you've ever seen the size of those things, you'd know why its a bad idea to mount it directly to the block, your just askign for it to snap off.
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He's exactly right. That happened to me...My show used some cheap Home Depot brass fitting and one end of fitting broke off in the threads of the block..Bye, bye oil, bye bye bearings..I had to get all new bearings..Use the Greddy sandwich adaptor..Do it right the first time and save money, time, and hassles.

VTEC works fine, just not red light if your lose all your oil pressure, but that's why I have a gauge.

 

What’s this autometer sensor you guys mentioned? My gauge is mechanical so there’s no sensor other then the stock one and it seems pretty small and light.
If i was to "T" it would look just like this:


Second I would get the greddy sandwich plate but to make it work with my autometer gauge fittings I still need to buy a 1/8" BSPT (M) to 1/8" NPT (F) adaptor.

 

You don't want the setup pictured....the bronze fitting is prone to crack if attached directly to block...run the line to firewall and put the t-fitting there...don't take chances on your oiling system.

 

And does anyone know whats so special about the tuner toys "T" fitting. Is it made of something other then brass?

 

You can tell by the look of it that the Tuner Toys one is cadmium plated. (Similar to the gold bolts on our motors) Which means its not brass. Yay steel.

The brass ones aren't bad if you don't overtorque them or load them up with lateral forces.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan4g63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I’m installing an AutoMeter Oil Pressure gauge and I want to take off the stock sensor since I don’t want to run a "T" and have problems. What are the negatives to doing this? I read in an older post that leaving off the stock sensor makes the ecu run a closed loop. Is that true?
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the stock oil pressure sender shown in dan4g63's picture only activates the the oil pressure light on your dash. it serves no purpose if you have an oil pressure gauge.

i removed the stock sensor in favor of a braided line to my oil pressure sender mounted on the firewall. i have zero issues without the stock sensor connected, VTEC works fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan4g63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What’s this autometer sensor you guys mentioned? My gauge is mechanical so there’s no sensor other then the stock one and it seems pretty small and light.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah i forgot to specifiy that i was talking about the electric autometer guages not the mechanical ones. yeah the mechanical one is nothing more than running a line straight into your cabin. but the electrical guages use this big electronic sender thats like 1.5" diameter and like 2" long cylinder looking thing, needless to say, its pretty bulky.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nix the teflon tape. Use Hondabond. Oil will soak through the tape and MAY cause a leak. I've used it before and it never leaked even though the tape was soaked through, and in other cases, it leaked.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>I used the liquid teflon