tomorrow i am either getting 200watt peak, dont know rms, tweeters... or saving money for a compnent set to replace my 2 way 180 watt peak, 45 watt rms 6.5" front speakers. the new component set is apperantly 200 watts and also 6.5"

I will be doing this in a 2000 civic EX in stock locations... so im betting the imaging and etc... from the tweeter being in the stock tweeter pods, and woofer lower in the door might be a problem.

So should I just get the tweeters and keep my speakers, or save up for components... I am happy with my current system, but if it would be a huge difference, I could be pursuaded to get components... Please list why for your answers.. thank you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tomorrow i am either getting 200watt peak, dont know rms, tweeters... or saving money for a compnent set to replace my 2 way 180 watt peak, 45 watt rms 6.5" front speakers. the new component set is apperantly 200 watts and also 6.5"

I will be doing this in a 2000 civic EX in stock locations... so im betting the imaging and etc... from the tweeter being in the stock tweeter pods, and woofer lower in the door might be a problem.

So should I just get the tweeters and keep my speakers, or save up for components... I am happy with my current system, but if it would be a huge difference, I could be pursuaded to get components... Please list why for your answers.. thank you.</TD></TR></TABLE>Save and get the components, installing another set of tweets will mess with your imaging more then installing components in the stock locations, [ same freq. from 2 diff. locations, tweeter and tweeter in 2way is not good] 94

 

hrm, so it would definitly mess up eh? well ive already got the stockers in there... but... wouldnt it just bring the stage up? Especially since the rear is a 3 way system, its got the tweets and a midrange.. as if it really matters other than tweets... in ANY case, ive currently got to turn the fade to front more than half way, just to take the sound stage from the rear, to slightly more in the front

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hrm, so it would definitly mess up eh? well ive already got the stockers in there... but... wouldnt it just bring the stage up? Especially since the rear is a 3 way system, its got the tweets and a midrange.. as if it really matters other than tweets... in ANY case, ive currently got to turn the fade to front more than half way, just to take the sound stage from the rear, to slightly more in the front</TD></TR></TABLE>

the last thing rears are going to do is help your imaging. personally i would disconnect them entirely and remove them but if you want to keep them, put a lowpass filter on it and fiddle around with the delay if your HU has that feature.

save your money, get a good component set and install them in some nice solid kickpanels. putting them in the doors and expecting great imaging out of the box isnt a very realistic goal.

 

ended up getting them after evaluating the sound stage and the replacement tweeters... and it was worth it, my stage was really low, and the quality of my front speakers are quite phenominal.. even though coxial. It ended up being perfect, the front stage is VERY powerful and at an even level, I cannot hear the tweeters but it appears that speakers are non-existant, but, higher, and distant, its nice, no particular spot can be heard, nice and even, might have helped that I rewired the front speakers with some nice copper 18awg... In any case, I thought I would let you know, for those with similar set ups, it worked extremely well... I didnt write any of you off either, I listened to your advice, and compared the speakers and such, then went to my dealer as well, we determined the stage was low enought, and well enough quality, that components would not have worked as well, kick pannels after all are not an option for me... In either case, final call for front stage, tweets, 60watt rms, 200 peak, plus 45rms 180 peak 6.5 inch 2 ways, = great, btw, the front tweets I got are set with a crossover and glow plug for 6000hz, but respond to 3500-90000hz, its true, even though we dont hear those high high notes, adding these really made some instruments sound much more real,after all, like has been said by others much more wise than me, sound from instruments and such do not end at 20 and 20,000 hz, thats just what we "hear"