ok well tomorrow i'm going to be doing my first brake job! seems pretty simple...but i have a couple questions. well i'll be replacing both the rear rotor's and pad's on my 2001 s2000 and i was wondering should i bleed all 4 brakes or just the rear 2 after i'm done? and if i do all 4, in which order do i do? is it left rear 1st, right rear 2nd, left front 3rd, then right front 4th? or is it a criss-cross pattern? also...the only "special" tool for this job is a caliper retractor tool right? ok thanks for the help!

 

bump, i gotta change my brakes r e a l soon also..

good luck

 

Bleeding the brakes is not a must, but if you are to -

Front Left
Front Right
Rear Right
Rear Left


A screwdriver can be used the run the piston back into the caliper.

 

If you are just doing pads and rotors, is it nessacary to bleed the breaks?

 

-caliper retractor tool or something that will retract the piston
-you may need a special tool for getting those rotor screws out, its a pain in the rear. when i think of the name, i will tell you. its a screwdriver you hit with a rubber hammer. it provides alot of torque to break the rotor screw loose
- yes bleed all the brakes. bleeding sequence as per service manual...driver side front, passenger front, passenger rear, passenger left
-i put anti seize on the rotor screws for easier removal next time
-brake cleaner for CRC for cleaning all the gunk, please clean everything before putting on the new rotors and pads

have any other questions, let me know. good luck


Modified by Nishant at 1:13 AM 1/12/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-caliper retractor tool is needed</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it isn't needed. a screw driver, toasted brake pads, metal plate, or even a quarter inch drive (no socket) will retract the rotor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-you may need a special tool for getting those rotor screws out, its a pain in the rear. when i think of the name, i will tell you. its a screwdriver you hit with a rubber hammer. it provides alot of torque to break the rotor screw loose</TD></TR></TABLE>
impact wrench will do the job. or else you are looking at drilling out the bolts. don't try just unscrewing them, even with a hammer.

 

Its a 2001 and your replacing the rotors?

Are you upgrading them, resurfacing them, rotating them, or just replacing them with stock rotors?

 

i just bought this car used and the rear brakes were toasted...maybe the car was used in a couple track events? cause the inner brake pads were completely gone! i think thats why it was making a horrible scratching sound...like metal to metal! i just replaced them with stock rotors and brake pads

 

how many miles are on the car? depending on mileage, its normal to replace the rotors. i have an 02 with 29k and i am on my second set of rotors, i also have a seperate set for the track

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impact wrench will do the job. or else you are looking at drilling out the bolts. don't try just unscrewing them, even with a hammer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Impact Driver...you can find them at most automotive places, about $12. Just gotta be careful you dont strip out the screw using in incorrectly, should only take 1 or 2 smacks with a rubber mallet to get them free'd up and started...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypnosisracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Impact Driver...you can find them at most automotive places, about $12. Just gotta be careful you dont strip out the screw using in incorrectly, should only take 1 or 2 smacks with a rubber mallet to get them free'd up and started...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

same thing i was talking about. i just forgot the name me

 

Impact Driver, your my only friend..

 

with the rotor screws...do you HAVE to re-use them for the new rotors? cause i didn't re-use mine so i don't have any screws right now and the rotor isn't moving or anything. i tried to put them back in when installing my new rotors but they wouldn't fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the rotor screws...do you HAVE to re-use them for the new rotors? cause i didn't re-use mine so i don't have any screws right now and the rotor isn't moving or anything. i tried to put them back in when installing my new rotors but they wouldn't fit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No. There is no need to resuse them at all. but one day you might want to replace them. they are 15 cents a piece at the Honda dealer IIRC. But do make sure that everything is straightened up when you mount wheels.

 

i just changed my rotors on my S....i got brembo cross drilled and slotted.....the braking is almost the same as stokc...only diff is it stays cooler...the next thing would be....stainless steeel braided lines...anyone done this?...what they think?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92jdmhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just changed my rotors on my S....i got brembo cross drilled and slotted.....the braking is almost the same as stokc...only diff is it stays cooler...the next thing would be....stainless steeel braided lines...anyone done this?...what they think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are trying to improve braking, upgrade the pads. steel lines help out on the track alot more than any street application. if you still don't feel a big difference, upgrade calipers