Honda Civic Ignition Problem NO Spark
Hi Guys, I have a Honda Civic 1.5Lsi 1992 - I have recently changed the distributor cap and rotor arm and my car will not fire up. I had some dificulty removing the rotor screw as the head was dameged, so i used a screw driver to tap it loose - but ever since i have done this i cannot get the car to fire up. I thought that the impact may have damaged the module, so i went to the scrappy and bought another one. Still no sparks, I have checked for voltage at the ICM and the coil and both are present. Checked the coil resistance and they are slightly out of spec - Primary Coil = 1ohms should be 0.6-0.9ohms - Secondary coil is 8.7kohms should be 13-18kohms. I haven't been able to change the coil yet as the screws are stuck but will try this today after work. PS the engine cranks over as normal + fuel is present (smells while crankings) but no sparks, I have tried the old components on but still no joy. Any input appreciated, Thanks.
Yeah the screw that holds the rotor on can be a bitch.
If your not getting spark it could be the coil. I don't know alot about honda dist as of yet, but on GM's there is an ignition control module that goes bad sometimes. I dont know if honda incorporates something similar?
was it working before you changed the cap and rotor?
If your not getting spark it could be the coil. I don't know alot about honda dist as of yet, but on GM's there is an ignition control module that goes bad sometimes. I dont know if honda incorporates something similar?
was it working before you changed the cap and rotor?
Yeah thats what i thought, i have changed the module with a scrapped one but still no joy! i have spoken to a mechanic friend and he said to check the fuses, as i may have shorted the fuse while changing.
I will now check the fuses and replace the coil, fingers crossed hope it fires.
Yes she did work fine before the **** up!
I will now check the fuses and replace the coil, fingers crossed hope it fires.
Yes she did work fine before the **** up!
Yeah 20amp Fuse was blown, so i changed it. Still no joy. Following this I changed the coil with a better one (in spec. with Honda's recommendations). Still no joy.
Does anyone know if there are any other components in the ditributor that may have been damaged during the change. I.E. Pick up sensors - and if so would this cause it not to produce a spark.
Following numerous suggestion regarding the main relay - I finally checked this but i am unsure what i have checked (small black relay next to fuses) - When the ignition is switched on it does make a clicking sound - but i'm not sure if it is the ignition relay or the fuel relay as it cuts out with the fuel pump.
Does anyone know if there are any other components in the ditributor that may have been damaged during the change. I.E. Pick up sensors - and if so would this cause it not to produce a spark.
Following numerous suggestion regarding the main relay - I finally checked this but i am unsure what i have checked (small black relay next to fuses) - When the ignition is switched on it does make a clicking sound - but i'm not sure if it is the ignition relay or the fuel relay as it cuts out with the fuel pump.
Something else you might look for is the little spring that comes out of the coil and contacts the dizzy cap. If this little spring got lost when you were tapping the screw, the coil will not transfer power to the cap, causing no spark. Something to check
Good point, really difficult to determine whether it is contacting as the cap covers this. I replaced the coil with a new spring, but i will investigated this further.
Is there any way I can check to see a spark coming out of the coil while cranking, IE - in the same way as HT leads - Screwdriver to body (-)?
My main concern is the Ignition Control Module-
I have carried out ckecks on ICM Module but am not sure about one of the checks - continuity between blue/white wire and off set wire on ICM (blue) - when i try this i have no reading. PS- Also will a ICM module with different number (identical) work with mine?
Thanks.
Is there any way I can check to see a spark coming out of the coil while cranking, IE - in the same way as HT leads - Screwdriver to body (-)?
My main concern is the Ignition Control Module-
I have carried out ckecks on ICM Module but am not sure about one of the checks - continuity between blue/white wire and off set wire on ICM (blue) - when i try this i have no reading. PS- Also will a ICM module with different number (identical) work with mine?
Thanks.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by harun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there any way I can check to see a spark coming out of the coil while cranking, IE - in the same way as HT leads - Screwdriver to body (-)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Test light on the coil input (NOT output) wires will tell you if your coil is getting power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by harun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My main concern is the Ignition Control Module-
I have carried out ckecks on ICM Module but am not sure about one of the checks - continuity between blue/white wire and off set wire on ICM (blue) - when i try this i have no reading.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Blue wire is for your tach/rpm signal. If the engine is off, no signal.
Test light on the coil input (NOT output) wires will tell you if your coil is getting power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by harun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My main concern is the Ignition Control Module-
I have carried out ckecks on ICM Module but am not sure about one of the checks - continuity between blue/white wire and off set wire on ICM (blue) - when i try this i have no reading.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Blue wire is for your tach/rpm signal. If the engine is off, no signal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Test light on the coil input (NOT output) wires will tell you if your coil is getting power.
I used a voltmeter to check for power at the coil with ignition on, Voltage is present (over 12v).
Blue wire is for your tach/rpm signal. If the engine is off, no signal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm sure i tried this check with ignition ON, But i will check to make sure. PS - On my dist. there is no blue/white wire, Haynes manual is confusing, do you know where this white/blue wire is? Is it the Terminal B (-) on the coil or is it on the ICM as there are two pictures of checks using the the blue/white wire in two different places?
Thanks.
Test light on the coil input (NOT output) wires will tell you if your coil is getting power.
I used a voltmeter to check for power at the coil with ignition on, Voltage is present (over 12v).
Blue wire is for your tach/rpm signal. If the engine is off, no signal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm sure i tried this check with ignition ON, But i will check to make sure. PS - On my dist. there is no blue/white wire, Haynes manual is confusing, do you know where this white/blue wire is? Is it the Terminal B (-) on the coil or is it on the ICM as there are two pictures of checks using the the blue/white wire in two different places?
Thanks.
Having finally resolved the problem, I thought it only makes sense to let everyone else know.
P.S. Thank for all ur feedback. Cheers
I ENDED UP BUYING A REFURBISHED DISTRIBUTOR FOR £85.
FOLLOWED HAYES MANUAL FOR INSTALLATION, STARTED FIRST TIME.
WHAT A RELIEF BUT NOW IM DEALING WITH TIMING - LIFES A BITCH
P.S. Thank for all ur feedback. Cheers
I ENDED UP BUYING A REFURBISHED DISTRIBUTOR FOR £85.
FOLLOWED HAYES MANUAL FOR INSTALLATION, STARTED FIRST TIME.
WHAT A RELIEF BUT NOW IM DEALING WITH TIMING - LIFES A BITCH
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