difference between autometer "full sweep electric gauge" and "mechanical gauge"
i'm looking at the sport comp boost/vac. i did notice the electic gauge has a warning light. is that the only difference? is installation on both EXACTLY the same?
mechanical:
electric:
mechanical:
electric:
The electric uses an electric sender mounted in the engine bay to tell you boost. The mechanical takes the air right into the gauge and mechanically measures pressure. Electric are generally more accurate. You can't run mechanical fuel pressure or oil pressure/temp gauges at most tracks, unless they're mounted outside the cockpit.
i did a little search. people are saying you have to use an insolator for the machnical. is that true?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did a little search. people are saying you have to use an insolator for the machnical. is that true? </TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't HAVE to. I went with the electronic gauges simply because I don't like a line with hot 50+ psi oil in it or a fuel line with just as much pressure in the same enclosed space as the rest of me.
There's no chance a wire is going to spring a leak and fugg up your afternoon at the track.
you don't HAVE to. I went with the electronic gauges simply because I don't like a line with hot 50+ psi oil in it or a fuel line with just as much pressure in the same enclosed space as the rest of me.

There's no chance a wire is going to spring a leak and fugg up your afternoon at the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Electric are generally more accurate.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mechanical are actually more accurate, but less people use them because they are either illegal for racing, or just because it is a pain to run isolators.
Mechanical are actually more accurate, but less people use them because they are either illegal for racing, or just because it is a pain to run isolators.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The electric uses an electric sender mounted in the engine bay to tell you boost. The mechanical takes the air right into the gauge and mechanically measures pressure. Electric are generally more accurate. You can't run mechanical fuel pressure or oil pressure/temp gauges at most tracks, unless they're mounted outside the cockpit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its the otherway around, mechanical gauges are more accurate than electrical gauges.
Its the otherway around, mechanical gauges are more accurate than electrical gauges.
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installation is not the same, its close but not the same. one has a line of that source running into the engine bay, the other has a electrical line with a sendor mounted on that particular idea going inside the cabin.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">installation on them the same? easy or not?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kinda but not really. With an electrical you have to mount the sending unti/sensor to whatever you're trying to measure. From there you'll run wires through your firewall to the wherever you're going to mount the gauge.
With a mechanical gauge you basically do the same except you run a 1/4" metal line or sometimes a rinky dink PVC line from the place you're getting your reading, through the firewall, into the cab.
You can see why I don't like mechanical gauges. For boost....ok, no big deal. An air leak won't cause any real problems. Now oil and fuel pressure I would have a problem with if they're in a line that's just running under my dash, rubbing up against who knows what.
They break, you get a leak of 50+Psi of oil or fuel, it's gonna make a mess. That's why people usually run them inside an isolator tube, which again is a pain in the ***.
Kinda but not really. With an electrical you have to mount the sending unti/sensor to whatever you're trying to measure. From there you'll run wires through your firewall to the wherever you're going to mount the gauge.
With a mechanical gauge you basically do the same except you run a 1/4" metal line or sometimes a rinky dink PVC line from the place you're getting your reading, through the firewall, into the cab.
You can see why I don't like mechanical gauges. For boost....ok, no big deal. An air leak won't cause any real problems. Now oil and fuel pressure I would have a problem with if they're in a line that's just running under my dash, rubbing up against who knows what.
They break, you get a leak of 50+Psi of oil or fuel, it's gonna make a mess. That's why people usually run them inside an isolator tube, which again is a pain in the ***.
electric is $190 and the mechanic is $44? price difference is HUGE!!
i'll stick with mechanic. air leak isn't that bad is it? and how often does the line leak?
i'll stick with mechanic. air leak isn't that bad is it? and how often does the line leak?
Most people opt for:
Mechanical:
EGT
Boost
Vacuum
Electrical:
Water temp
Oil temp/pressure
Fuel level
Tachometer
Mechanical:
EGT
Boost
Vacuum
Electrical:
Water temp
Oil temp/pressure
Fuel level
Tachometer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2 point 0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">electric is $190 and the mechanic is $44? price difference is HUGE!!
i'll stick with mechanic. air leak isn't that bad is it? and how often does the line leak?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Air leak isn't a big deal, but oil and fuel are. NHRA tracks WILL NOT pass you if you have a mechanical fuel or oil gauge mounted inside the car.
i'll stick with mechanic. air leak isn't that bad is it? and how often does the line leak?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Air leak isn't a big deal, but oil and fuel are. NHRA tracks WILL NOT pass you if you have a mechanical fuel or oil gauge mounted inside the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people opt for:
Mechanical:
EGT
Boost
Vacuum
Electrical:
Water temp
Oil temp/pressure
Fuel level
Tachometer</TD></TR></TABLE>
how do you have a mechanical egt gauge?????????
Mechanical:
EGT
Boost
Vacuum
Electrical:
Water temp
Oil temp/pressure
Fuel level
Tachometer</TD></TR></TABLE>
how do you have a mechanical egt gauge?????????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Air leak isn't a big deal, but oil and fuel are. NHRA tracks WILL NOT pass you if you have a mechanical fuel or oil gauge mounted inside the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Without an isolator
Air leak isn't a big deal, but oil and fuel are. NHRA tracks WILL NOT pass you if you have a mechanical fuel or oil gauge mounted inside the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Without an isolator
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSM Turbos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how do you have a mechanical egt gauge?????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i was just thinking that.
Mechanical boost gauges are great, just hafta make sure you dont snag the line on anything under the dash or a-pillar.
some people complain of 'boost gauge lag' and opt with a bigger line to the boost gauge, but im not sure how accurate that assumption is.
how do you have a mechanical egt gauge?????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i was just thinking that.
Mechanical boost gauges are great, just hafta make sure you dont snag the line on anything under the dash or a-pillar.
some people complain of 'boost gauge lag' and opt with a bigger line to the boost gauge, but im not sure how accurate that assumption is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSM Turbos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how do you have a mechanical egt gauge?????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
EGT gauges that use a thermocouple.
how do you have a mechanical egt gauge?????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
EGT gauges that use a thermocouple.
Thermocouple. An electrical device used for temperature measurement. Two dissimilar metals joined together, making a continuous loop.
From http://www.vibrationandshock.com/glossary.htm
From http://www.vibrationandshock.com/glossary.htm
never had a problem with my mechanical oil pressure gauge and mechanical boost gauge , and they are mounted right in my cabin
Accuracy can come either way for both electric and mechanical gauges. It depends on the brand and model of the gauge.
Generally, mechanical gauges are much faster responding. Boost and oil pressure is what most people want for a fast reading. Temperature gauges on the other hand doesn't need fast response and people use electric gauges.
Generally, mechanical gauges are much faster responding. Boost and oil pressure is what most people want for a fast reading. Temperature gauges on the other hand doesn't need fast response and people use electric gauges.
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RCautoworks
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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May 9, 2003 06:42 PM
autometer, boost, difference, electric, electrical, full, gage, gauge, gauges, honda, mechanic, mechanical, nhra, stuck, sweep





