Civic Dx rear conversion...
Is it possible to convert a honda civic DX rear drum break to disk breaks off an si..??? If so, does the axel need to be swaped or can the drums be replaced by the disks. If anyone has done this, let me know, and let me know what the time investment and benefits are from this. I need more breaking power...
==> http://home.mpinet.net/t-hero/DiscBrakes!!.htm
It's up to you if you want to swap the proportion valve (I didn't), but you don't need a new master cylinder.
It's up to you if you want to swap the proportion valve (I didn't), but you don't need a new master cylinder.
Oh yeah if your planning on swaping the proportion valve your going to need to have some extra brake line and a way to bend them to fit. The CX/DX/LX valve has a different set up then the EX/Si bodies do so it won't just bolt in, fabrication is involved.
so you swaped your rear drums for disk breaks. the only reason i ask is b/c i got into an accident cause my breaking force wasnt good enough and i would have been in a ditch if i used the e-break with drums. I know im going to need some extra lines and some add-ons but my main concern is better breaking power and if the swap can be done.
i dont see why you wouldnt swap the prop valve to get the full effect. i mean.. sure you dont have to swap the prop valve out.. but you need the Si proportioning valve for the full brake effect as they are made for 4 disk braking.. opposed to the cx/dx ones arent.
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purpose of the rear breaks is to keep the rear from coming around under heavy breaking..get better fronts and keep the rear stock..unless u think its going to look cool to see rear rotors on ur dx...if u swap a heavier disc . conversion to the rear..wouldn that defeat the purpose of having stock fronts?
very true, i trust figured that i could get better more efficient braking power with rear disk breaks, but if you think heavier more power rotors and brakes will work then thats what i need to do. Looks arent **** when it comes down to the run...
Swap your prop valve, you will feel the difference and you will brake safer. If you go for the 5-lug swap like i did, it is highly recommended that you change your M/C to one from a Integra ( 1 inch compared to 13/16) and you have to change your prop valve to get this setup to work properly...
Swap your prop valve, you will feel the difference and you will brake safer. If you go for the 5-lug swap like i did, it is highly recommended that you change your M/C to one from a Integra ( 1 inch compared to 13/16) and you have to change your prop valve to get this setup to work properly...
i am in the same boat as blue-civic-hybrid. i also did the 5 lug conversion.. but havent swapped out my prop valve yet.. the brake response lags, but i know once i put the prop valve on (from an si) it will change.
SICK!!!
ok somebody needs to lay off the krylon... sheesh..
ok somebody needs to lay off the krylon... sheesh..

You really think that leaving this way would look better???
[Modified by Civic242, 5:26 PM 1/9/2002]
if braking power is what you want you have to upgrade the front brakes. Just think about it if you are stopping from 100 to 0
wouldnt you be unweighting the rear end? rear brakes arent as effective in hard braking as fronts. Even if you just upgrade the front pads you still have to worry about brake fade from all the heat . If I were you ( and im not) I would invest in a set of cross drilled rotors and some EBC green stuff pads they will make a huge difference. You dont even have to worry that much about your rears. Just get a high quality set of shoes and keep them adjusted. Is alot easier on the pocket book and on the knuckles. I know from experience
wouldnt you be unweighting the rear end? rear brakes arent as effective in hard braking as fronts. Even if you just upgrade the front pads you still have to worry about brake fade from all the heat . If I were you ( and im not) I would invest in a set of cross drilled rotors and some EBC green stuff pads they will make a huge difference. You dont even have to worry that much about your rears. Just get a high quality set of shoes and keep them adjusted. Is alot easier on the pocket book and on the knuckles. I know from experience
yeah...i probably going to get cross drilled-slotted, i already ordered them from my shop....$40 a piece is good right...? i think so, any recommendations on pads...
[Modified by hybrid_racer, 2:24 AM 1/10/2002]
EBC green stuff brake pads are the best. I won a set of them after scca race for having the hottest brakes after the race. my rotors were hotter than my exhaust manifold. I have a set of cross drilled rotors with the pads now and i am very happy. No brake fade even after a 5 min brake stomping race. Hope this helps
yeah...i probably going to get cross drilled-slotted, i already ordered them from my shop....$40 a piece is good right...? i think so, any recommendations on pads...
[Modified by hybrid_racer, 2:24 AM 1/10/2002]
brakes don't stop your car, the tires do....so get better tires, then start thinking about rear a rear disc conversion...if your running into people, it's because your going to damn fast
silly children...
brakes don't stop your car, the tires do....so get better tires, then start thinking about rear a rear disc conversion...if your running into people, it's because your going to damn fast
The caliper applies a force to the rotating mass. It slows the rotational velocity of the wheel/tire, not the car. Friction stops the car, the friction between the tires and the road. You think the brakes stop the car your fooling yourself. Your car will only stop if the tires permit it. If you want to pick a fight with physics, be my guest.





