ok guys, there is a huge HID thread out there about 'doing it right' and i've partook in that thread... this is a more specific question. i was told this via an email by a member on here, just sounds fishy. lemme know, from those who have experience, whether this is correct or not.

the question i asked to receive this answer is...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please explain the difference between a mechanized hi/lo and a dual filament lamp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NOTE: seller's name not disclosed... if you read this, please don't take offense. i'm just trying to be informed and 100% sure before making a purchase.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the mechanize ones move, because hi and low beam as you see on regular bulbs are at two location, the one that is further out would project more than the closer on it has to do with the position of the source. the dual filament one does not move, that requires the hi beam filament to charge and the low beam to charge when switched upon.. so basically the mechanized ones is just one filament that is already charged, doesn't waste time to charge when u wanna see where ur going..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

its true the mechanized one actually has a shield that will rotate around the hid bulb. And the filament ones i have seen basically have a hid bulb with a h1 bulb also connected to it. so when u flick your high beams both hids and bulb come on. Wouldnt recommend that. I wouldnt recommend getting any type of hi/lo bulb. just rewire your high beams to your fog lights so if u need to flash, the fogs will.

 

i need high beams for mountain driving, not just flashing people. thanks though.

 

If you've ever seen one of the newer Jaguars with the HID setups in them, they use the motorized Hi/low setup. There actually is a casper shield type setup around the bulb that moves to swap from low beam to high beam.

The other setup that he is talking about is similar to the H4 bulbs in our Civics already. They are just a dual filiment bulb similar to our turn signals that stay on lower and get a different signal to light up more.

 

so this is actually an effective method of lighting?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deeksmooth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so this is actually an effective method of lighting?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes - but to clarify the dual bulb (one hid capsule & one H1 bulb) HID kits are chezzy IMO...I haven't seen results but I question reliability & longevity (& ease of replacement) of the Hi beam halogen bulb

dual filament bulbs are Haolgen bulbs (stock) H4 bulbs - I have never EVER seen a dual filament HID bulb &lt;--- believe me I would know

the are different kinds of mechanized HID bulbs. The absolute BEST IMO are Bi-Xenon projectors. The provide the best cuoff (low engaged only) & supply ample amounts of extra light when highs are engaged. Basically there is a sheild that covers half of the inside of the projector - which, when highs are turn on, flips down so no light is blocked from passing through the projector

for reflector housings there are mechanized hi-low too (this is what I have in my OE headlamps) here is a pic of the h4 kit I bought from autolamps-online.com in england


Besides have the absolute best casper shield you can get for a "kit" the bottom section splits open like a pair of sissors when hi beam is engaged. the amount of light thats cast upward above the cutoff does NOT increase much but it does greatly increase the glare cast above the cutoff...allowing more illumination above cutoff BUT not as much as dual filament halogens or Bi-xenons.

There are also HID kits (for reflector housings) that move the bulb in & out but my guess is results are also nowhere near as good as bi-xenons or dual filament halogens (in terms of highbeam effectiveness)

if I could do it all over again I would retrofit Bi-Xenon Projectors...But I don't wanna F up my oem CTR headlamps

bi-Xenon retrofit https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1080466



Modified by adirondackR at 12:30 PM 1/7/2005

 

There is no Dual Filament HID Bulb. There is a shield and a Solenoid inside the HID projector. once you click the high beams on the solenoid rotates a shield and allows more light to escape. This setup is Called Bi-Xenon. Whole Kit will cost you between 300-450 depending on where u get it from. its worth it IMO

 

another question... if i get any 6000k HID bulb for my H4 setup... if the connectors are different can i cut and splice? will they work with my current K2 ballast/ignitor (came with 7000k bulbs)?

i think the kelvin rating has nothing really to do with the power draw, but i'm asking none the less. i guess the main question is, if i cut and splice in the connectors from my popped bulb, SHOULD the new bulbs work?

 

Why do you want a 7000k bulb. You need to get rid of them and get 5000k and below. Anything more you are losing light output.

 

I don't want 7000k, I want 5000k. I got an offer for 2 6000k bulbs for $120 shipped. I can't afford a $400 new kit, I WANT a hi/lo 5000k.

 

How are the low and high beams wired to an HID kit in a halogen headlight? I have a bi-xenon kit but the high beam doesn't work.