The brake rotors are 12 years old. I had the rotors resurfaced and put in NEW Hawk Street pads recently.

Even though it has been resurfaced, the driverside rotor is still warped ..and it squeaks against the pads with every rotation of the wheel. Very very annoying.. the pads wont break in to that rotor. I even tried "valve breaking in" compound.

I thought about getting just one new rotor, but braking would be uneven, right?
I'll probably get new Front rotors.

Are my fairly new Hawk Street pads ..junk? Would I be able to use them w/ the new rotors?
Would the "break-in" be bad if I do ?

Hawk Street is known to be squeaky. I thought the pads were the problem, but its the ONE warped rotor.

 

A warped rotor will shake your car when you hit the brakes.... If its just sqeaking, its your pads, and high performance hawk pads will squeak.. If you car doesn't shake when you brake, its not a warped rotor..

I am only saying this because you mentioned nothing of shaking, only squeaking..

 

Ive felt the shake under braking loads for years now, but I always thought it was something else like..

-Wheel Bearing
-The bad CV joint/axle combo not decelerating correctly
-Unbalanced wheel
-Upper control arm Anchor Bolts for the camber kit not tight.

Before all of this brake problem..

After a full 1/4 mile acceleration, I would put the car in neutral and brake.. the car would shake like crazy under deceleration from high speeds, ...I hear my axles or something click after I have come to a stop.
After that, I have notice my CV's go bad fast.

Could it be the Quaife diff? I have Polyurethane motor mount inserts and missing Front motor mount, could that do it? I have been trying to correct my brake and axle problem for a while now.

 

I've been told that ideally, you should bed in new pads with old rotors & break in new rotors with old pads.

 

Respectfully, you might want to set aside additional performance mods until you have some of the existing technical difficulties ironed out. That missing motor mount is a prime suspect for problems but the Quaife dif SHOULD be pretty easy on parts and not act odd under deceleration...

It is a really tempting trap, to put time and $$ into performance bits while neglecting regular, boring maintenance stuff - been there! If nothing else, you will have a horrible time chasing out the problem if you are dealing with more than one variable. When tuning racing cars, it is all but a law to only change one thing at a time, since you lose track of your data otherwise.

I would also suggest that resurfacing rotors is usually false economy. If they are truly warped, many resurfacing lathes won't fix them (particularly within factory-spec thickness tolerances). If they are just scored a bit, the new pads get comfortable in the groves after a few miles anyway! Get new, stock rotors - I would personally stay FAR away from any of the aftermarket grooved, drilled or otherwise mutilated rotors.

Fix that mount first, make sure bearings and CV joints are really good, get the suspension aligned by a reliable shop, then go from there. Your ride is only as fast/reliable as its weakest link. Have fun!

Kirk

 

Resurfacing rotors is not a good idea because to resurface, you remove material from the rotor which reduces its capacity to absorb and transfer heat. Bottom line, resurfaced rotors will warp easier than stock thickness rotors.

The Hawk pads should not squeak- I have HPS on the front of my 93 integra and have no problems with squeaking. I did the no-no of replacing pads and rotors at the same time and warped the rotors. Then put another new set of rotors on and have not had any problems since.

OBW- I run Hawk Blues on my ITC CRX and these also do not squeak.

Good luck

 

This works for my ITC car.

New rotors.
Cryo treat them.
Install new pads.

Been thru two sets of pads and have .000" wear on rotors.

Cryo and pads by Carbotech.


Grumpy

 

grumpy, how much more do end up paying for the cyro treated rotors? civic rotors are pretty cheap. just trying weigh the options. thanks

 

I use Hawk Blues, and installed them up front on new Brembo Blanks... I have not had any problems. 3 days they have been used at track events (the last one in the rain...).

 

Not sure about Carbotech, but Porterfield sells cryo-treated '99-'00 Civic Si rotors for around $108.00 a piece (front). I believe they use Brembo blanks.

I've got some on order, since my stock rotors are starting to vibrate the pedal after the last session at VIR. Hope they hold up as well as advertised.

 

Yes:

Carbotech Engineering offers cryogenically treated Brembo rotors for the 1999-2000 Civic Si.

If someone from the Si-commnity can put together a group buy list of at least 6 sets (i.e. 12 front rotors), I can do the cryogenically-treated Brembo rotors for $89/ea on the fronts; i.e. $178 per set. Lead time from when I get a confirmed GB list, including payment information for each individuals to commit the orders, is one week + shipping time.

If someone is interested, let me know at andie@carbotecheng.com

With Best Regards,

Andie Lin

 

Andie-
What's the cost on cryo'd front rotors for the RSX Type-S? Don't need them yet, but may if I get in another few events before the summer.
Adam

 

Adam...basically take the cost of an OEM rotor and add $40 to it.

Andie

 

So what would be the cost of 98 civic dx OE brembo rotors.. I've seen lowest .. $20
each...and also what is your pricing for Axis Ultimate Pads for this car as well