So, the day I've been ruing has come. I'm at the point where I need to cut the dashboard to fit around the roll cage, and install it in the EJ Civic. I've been putting it off, because it looks like a fairly painful procedure, but it's the next step in almost being done.

The front bars hug the A-pillar fairly close, and the lateral front bar runs along just underneath the windshield defroster vents, so I don't think it's going to be major material removal from the inside of the dash. Fortunately, I have a second dash from Ebay ($20), that's in better condition, so I can practice once on the original beat up one, then do the real thing on the better one. I just don't want it to come out looking like chit around the bars.

Do any of you who have tackled this before have any helpful hints, methods, or tricks, tools, ways of measuring, etc., that I could benefit from?

Thanks guys.

 

yes, grind with a cut off wheel and eye protection/gloves. That plastic get's REALLY hot when cutting it. After you cut it, wait for the melted plastic to dry, then break it off.

Take small chunks away, and try to fit it again. Take back out and take a bit more off.

Just take a while, but it's not difficult!

 

I ended up using a hole saw (had a friend hold the dash in various angles) and try mimic the line of the tubes - it worked for a good percentage of the cuts. Also used a small reciprocating saw for the rest of the cuts. I didn't try w/ the cut off wheel but can imagine that would have worked for some stuff that this wasn't ideal for (and this ended up being real easy at some angles). And if you have any reason to replace the windshield, I can only imagine this would be quantifiably easier with it out.

 

I used hammers, razor knives, hacksaws, shears, dremmels and whatever else I could find to smash, break and cut the plastic away. Nothing fit back in with the dash bar running across back there. I'm sure there's a better way, but sometimes I'm not so patient.

 

I have used a jigsaw with success for some cuts and typically use a small right angle grinder with an abrasive disk for others.

As far as measuring goes. I find "features" on the dash that match up with parts on the chassis (ex. side dash mounting bolt holes, the cutout in the corner where it meets up with the a-pillar, etc.) measure the tube locations and transfer measurements onto the area where I need to cut.

Also, if you want a nice tight fit, take less material off than you may need. Test fit the dash and trim the remaining to fit.

$.02

 

Cut a little, test fit, cut a little, test fit...

I rushed one side and it didn't come out as nice as the other side. After I finish off all the important tasks on the car I'm going to make up some flush covers/boots for the dash to match up with the cage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used hammers, razor knives, hacksaws, shears, dremmels and whatever else I could find to smash, break and cut the plastic away. Nothing fit back in with the dash bar running across back there. I'm sure there's a better way, but sometimes I'm not so patient.
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I am with John on this one....Our cage builder chose to run the crossbar on top of the steering colum, which when all said and done is a great location.....It just makes getting the dash back on a PITA.

Get the dash in there and get a rough idea of what will need to be cut/grinded out....then go to work. Remember, measure twice....cut once, meaning cut some material away and test fit again as opposed to cutting it all to hell and throwing it in....

Patience is the key on this one...good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as opposed to cutting it all to hell and throwing it in....
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Werkz for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Werkz for me.
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Ha Ha, no offense, John, but I was trying to avoid it coming out looking like that.

Well, I'm off to go hack up the beat-to-**** dash for fitment, then transfer measurements and do it clean on the newer one.

Anyone know whether I have to transfer the VIN# plate from the original dash to the new one? Or whether it even has to remain on there? (for IT & HC)

 

johng, now I thought I've seen it all but trying to make weight like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Anyone know whether I have to transfer the VIN# plate from the original dash to the new one? Or whether it even has to remain on there? (for IT & HC)</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you don't need it!

 

yes you do the last thing you want to do is get stopped while towing and have missing vins on the car your towing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyone know whether I have to transfer the VIN# plate from the original dash to the new one? Or whether it even has to remain on there? (for IT & HC)</TD></TR></TABLE>

in IT wouldn't this be the only way for them to tell if the car was really what it is, IE- integra LS or GSR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sans &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you do the last thing you want to do is get stopped while towing and have missing vins on the car your towing</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

in IT wouldn't this be the only way for them to tell if the car was really what it is, IE- integra LS or GSR</TD></TR></TABLE>


uhh, that is certainly not the only place that has the vin number...


I highly doubt any officer would give you problems about a car on a trailer, with a full cage in it. If he did, all he would need to do is pop the hood and luck at the firewall. It's one thing if it's just missing, but entirely another when you have a roll cage going through the place the tag used to be.


He asked if he "needed" it, and he does not. It is up to you if you put it in or not. Mine is not in, and it wont be going in either. I did save it in my car files though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I highly doubt any officer would give you problems about a car on a trailer, with a full cage in it. If he did, all he would need to do is pop the hood and luck at the firewall. It's one thing if it's just missing, but entirely another when you have a roll cage going through the place the tag used to be.
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one of my neigbors had his CR-X impounded by sant a clarita PD for not having a vin number on the dash board while towing. Since the level of theft in cali is so tech now it's not that difficult to replace an entire set of vins, the officer as it seemed thought he may have just missed one.

 

Blake (runs a GP CRX but doesn't post much here) got a raft of **** about cutting the VIN on his GP car by the police at Lowes Motorspeedway a few years ago.

 

perhaps I'll just re-rivit next to the roll cage penetration and avoid any hassle. It is on several other locations in the car, and I plan on keeping the title in the tow's glove box, just in case.

Thanx!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sans &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

one of my neigbors had his CR-X impounded by sant a clarita PD for not having a vin number on the dash board while towing. Since the level of theft in cali is so tech now it's not that difficult to replace an entire set of vins, the officer as it seemed thought he may have just missed one. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Sounds like there is something else to that story. It would be hard to believe that someone would go to the trouble of replacing all the vins on a CRX and miss the most obvious one.


Like I said, he does not "need" it. If you want to put it back on, then by all means do so.

 

Since we are on the topic of VIN's, my VIN plate was cut with the dash (the rivet closest the door). It was cut (barely) so that all the numbers/letters are still there...and it was obviously cut because of the rollcage bar...would anyone think I might run into an issue at some point?

If so, is there even anything I could do about it? The VIN's everywhere else on the car match...but you know how cops can be.

 

I know we keep talking about VIN numbers but I know when you bought a totally built racecar from shops like SpeedSource, you didn't get the title. All you got was a Bill of Sale. I can't image explaining that to a cop.

 

I thought it was innocent until proven guilty how the hell are they going to impound a car that is in your name because one of the numerous vins isnt there especially on a race car with a cage one a trailor...

 

I used cardboard as a replica dash, measure, cut, fit, grind, measure, then traced around the real dash, marked, then peeled the dash fabric out a little, started cutting with a holesaw and jigsaw, fitted, then peeled the fabric back over the cuts so you can't see the nasty plastic cuts, and it came out pretty nice! I have a 1996 civic hatch w/6pt cage, will post up pics if you need....

 

also, when you cut into the dash, go in reversee, it makes a nice clean cut when using a hole bit

 

does anybody have any pics, ones that look good?

 

I would cut the dash BEFORE painting the cage. My paint got all scraped up with all the test fits I did. I used the cut a little, test fit technique and it still didn't work well. Oh well.