as the project nears completion (no, MF-1 has not started yet, currently charging the battery) I am starting to plan for the other odds and ends.

When I went to HPDEs, I took a smallish plastic tool box with the essentials. I would like to take more tools with me for a race weekend. But I don't want to get a truck-toolbox because I have a tonneau cover, and they (toolboxes) take up too much space in the already short bed.

So, what do ya'll do for track tools? I am also thinking of getting a set of cheaper tools to leave in the track tool box, because it's no fun transferring tools from the garage chest to the portable and back.

inputs appreciated.

thanks
S.

 

I moved stuff back and forth between garage and portable carry boxes. It was a PITA. Got to the point where I left stuff in the portables most of the summer.

As for what to bring...
cordless impact with charger
whatever crescent wrenches are needed for your car
sockets and drivers
screwdrivers
hammer
pry bar
adjustable wrench
assorted pliers (regular, needlenose, etc)
spare wiring, crimp connectors, wire strippers, soldering kit
duct tape

Then whatever specialty tools you need to do axles, brakes, etc.

 

My list:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Storage Bin

- Tarp (2)
- Light
- Torque Wrench
- Oil (2)
- Brake fluid (2)
- Brakecleen (2)
- Liquid Wrench
- Brake Pads (2 box - 1 backup, 1 stock)
- Hand Cleaner
- Hand Wipes
- Glass Cleaner
- Shop Towells (1 roll)
- Rain-X
- Vaccum Tubes (brake bleeding)
- Wood Block (2)
- Umbrella
- Sunscreen
- First Aid Kit
- Painters Tape
- Racer Tape
- Helms
- Zip Ties
- Pen/Paper

Track Bag

- Helmet
- Neck Collar
- Gloves
- Communicator
- Shoes
- Overshoes
- Balaclava

Additional Items:

- Chair
- Food/Gatorade/Water/Redbull
- Jack
- Jack Stands (4)
- Dueffel Bag
- Toolbox, Red - Sockets, Wrenches, Ratchets
- Toolbox, Yellow - Misc Items, Gauges, Plyers, Screwdrivers, Hammer, Prybars
- Impact Gun
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Those are pretty good lists. I don't have a rig that I can leave the tools in so I work in my garage from the basic things I need at the track and they are always packed up for loading. I have a 4 wide drawer, 3 narrow drawer cheap tool chest that normally serves as the top unit for a rolling bottom. When racing actively, I kept the top chest loaded with just about all the normal metric tools that I would need and a handful of common English sizes as well. When packing the van, I would just take the whole top box with me. It was probably 70-80 lbs so you didn't want to carry it a lot but in and out of the tow vehicle was fine and maybe once in and out of the paddock space. It wasn't too valuable itself and it held up fine and I pretty mch always had what I needed.

Definately plastic bins (strong but not too heavy) are great for movable storage. Awning and rain suits in one bin, chemicals, wire, tapes, paper towels, etc. in another bin, etc. A plastic toolbox for all the grinders, drills and electric devices.

One thing that was really good was a cheap plastic briefcase-like fishing box with clear doors on each side. I trimmed the bin spaces to properly hold more critical things like pyrometer, volt/ohm meter, brake bleeder, electric probe, stopwatch, tire gauge, etc. This way I absolutely know where these things are and I can see through the lid that they are present and I just have to grab the one thing when packing and they are guaranteed to be with me. Having an easy and consistent system to assure that you have it all is the key.

 

I picked up a small roller toolbox that separates into 2 (4) sections so that its decently practical to hold most of my hand tools separated and button it up and roll it up the trailer (into the truck) for the track. The nice part is when the truck isn't anywhere near your car, you have the tools right there (and easily movable).

Lowes, HD have them. e.g.

Lowes (213506-82673-213506)


HD (9876)


I can't find the exact one I am thinking of but I think costco has one as well w/ a built in retractable electrical cord and some other doo-dads. They are cheap enough (I think mine was 50-60 dollars if that much) that if you do have something you use for tools at home, its not a big invesement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lowes (213506-82673-213506)


HD (9876)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those look pretty smart if the organization and size is right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Definately plastic bins (strong but not too heavy) are great for movable storage. Awning and rain suits in one bin, chemicals, wire, tapes, paper towels, etc. in another bin, etc. A plastic toolbox for all the grinders, drills and electric devices.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What have you found to be a good box for carrying spares, fluids, etc? I used to use the rubbermaid bins you could get at Home Depot, but those are a bit to heavy when loaded with stuff like brake hardware.

 

We are using a combination of Lee's SJR's lists. I found several different sizes of Rubbermaid containers (3, 10, 14, 18 gallon) were very practical for a number of items. The 3 gallon size is ideal for small parts like ignition and brake pads/chemicals while the larger bins hold everything from toilet paper , tarps, and oil and filters. MY gear bag even fits in a 14 gallon container and stays there for the winter-makes wife happy too.
Tool chests are a thing around here and I agree that having one dedicated to the race car is a very good idea--if you can afford it. All of our chests came from Sears Outlet. The tool selections are separated in the master chests (stay at home) by SAE and Metric. We only have 1 roll-around base unit for the Metric setup. The race chest is a mirror of the shop one with a few exceptions. Be sure to include Flare Nut wrenches in your collection for example. We carry our Multimeter in its own case as is the case with the impact. A good way to buy tools is when Sears is having their Craftsman Club 10% sale (this week btw) and use all the coupons Sears may offer. I also buy Snap-On, but that is only when their item is the only or best choice (if there is such a thing ). Don't forget to get yourself a good airtank of some sort. You can convert a Freon tank if you can find the proper fittings.
Loading for the track is a chore for me as I must get the chest up into the bed of the Dakota. Be very careful selecting a cabinet if you have a tonneau as the clearances on some trucks is not what you would desire (found that one out).

Happy New Year

 

I use one of these:


http://www.happcontrols.com/in....htm!

good for all the basics, you can take apart most of the car with it.

and then two mid-size rubbermaid containers with corldess impact, etc...

I still don't have one of those pimpy aluminum jacks though, hurts my back everytime I have to lift my heavy steel jack to unload it.

 

One key is to make absolute sure you have room to carry everything. I know that Seabass, like me, has a regular old pickup and an open trailer.
Trust me, I have NO spare space on my trips, and everything will only fit if loaded a certain way. Its important to remember this before buying a bunch of totes and boxes that won't fit.

Don't forget the spares. For that car, at a minimum, you need to carry...

Front spindles/hubs
halfshafts
Electronics (mainly ECU and distributor)
rotors
pads
shoes
head gasket
belts/hoses

Adam has a very comprehensive list that goes even further, but thems the basics, and eats up about 2 tote spaces in the back of the truck.
And don't forget the 12 wheels/tires (2 sets of dry and 1 set of rains).
Canopy
jack

whew...

 

yeah, I have two totes' worth of spares, but I don't have the spindle/hubs, or the drive shafts (mostly cause I'm too cheap to pay the core...) then the tote the canopy came in and the 10' poles needed to assemble it, and the 3 5-gallon fuel jugs (I need to make a little boxed space for those on the trailer this weekend), and the folding chair, and the tool box(es) and the cooler - and I only have 8 wheels in addition to the 4 on the car. ****, I shoulda bought an Excursion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerBowie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What have you found to be a good box for carrying spares, fluids, etc? I used to use the rubbermaid bins you could get at Home Depot, but those are a bit to heavy when loaded with stuff like brake hardware.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use Milk Crate. Easily stackable too!

 

i am looking for the tools to be able to do bearings and hubs on the front knuckles. any suggestions? the numbers in the old honda manuals don't yield anything when searching at the honda sites and would likely cost too much anyways.

tia, tom

 

as far as I know, a press is necessary. In a pinch I would use a big socket and a sledge hammer. In the past, I have given the local machine shop the spindle, bearing and hub and let them go to town for me.

 

i can fit pretty much ALL my hand tools in a briefcase sized tool box. this is all my sockets and various wrenches. i keep it in the car with me. the important thing for me was to eliminate all of the socket sizes a honda just doesnt use, like 13, 15, 16 and what not. just sockets of 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 all in BOTH 1/2" and 3/8", PLUS deep sockets so i end up with multiple ones, but i know each socket almost intimately i know what i need for each job. also the special ones for axle nuts or whatever. my toolbox is compartmentalized in small bins separated by socket type, 1/2, 3/8 or 1/4, and then an open space for all my long ratchets and wrenches (10mm box end, 12/14 box end combo, 17, and 19) and extensions and breaker bar. it all fits nicely and is somewhat organized.

the only other tools i brought with me to the track were torque wrench (too big to fit in the suitcase), BFH, calipers, cordless impact, jack and jackstands, plus air tank.

then theres always spares. ie. axles, knuckles, rotors. forgot to add a whole spare distributor, anything electrical is usually a distributor on a honda. (second is alternator, i bring that if i feel like it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tom91ita &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am looking for the tools to be able to do bearings and hubs on the front knuckles. any suggestions? the numbers in the old honda manuals don't yield anything when searching at the honda sites and would likely cost too much anyways.

tia, tom</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why i just bring a whole spare knuckle, both sides. saved me twice, was able to run the next session. otherwise, i would be screwed the whole day trying to get to a machine shop (which is learned the first time).

 

I tend to bring:

- Aluminum jack
- Couple sets of open/box end wrenches I've accumulated over time
- Complete set metric 3/8" drive sockets
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- c-clamp for brake changes
- cordless drill
- torque wrench
- breaker bar
- My motive power bleeder
- Prybar of some sort for removing axles
- Complete set of whatever tools I need for the various lugnuts the thing takes
- Jackstands
- Handful spare parts (master, knuckles, calipers)
- Hammer, duct tape, LOTS of zipties

Honestly, if I break anything that requires much more than this, I'm likely to just go home. I hate working on cars at my house. In the dirt and the heat with the fire ants at CMP...yuck.

The rollaway tool cabinets like phatty posted are very sweet BTW, I've seen one.

 

You really need the halfshafts and spindles seabass. They are the most common failure on the car and can easily be fixed in less than an hour. Also, having them helps ensure you won't need them. Kinda like rain tires (the ones I bought in april of '03 still have stickers on them).

It'd suck to tow the car 6 hours to a race and pack things up over a busted hub. People are great about sharing, but it'd be tough to talk someone out of a hub because it is such a common need.
I think yours are brand new, so its an OK risk for a few weekends. But I wouldn't press my luck much farther.

 

I ordered a set of axles yesterday from Marty at Raxles - kindaq expensive when you have no cores... I am investigating the spindles, BUT, my hubs are the heat treated from OPM, with new bearings and studs. Are you saying that the treated ones are also prone to breaking?
I found a set of spindles for $90 a pair on ebay, with "good" bearing, no hub. I was tempted to get it. I also don't have a timing belt or head gasket, but mine are also new, and if they go at the track, I think I'd just pack it in - especially for a timing belt...

 

Yes, even the hardened hubs will fail. Again, its a weak point on the car. No matter what you use it will eventually fail. Most folks don't seem to run more than one season without changing them out, certainly not 2 seasons.

I don't carry a timing belt. If that fails you have bigger issues than a trackside repair. The head gasket is an unlikely failure on these cars, but you need a spare just in case someone writes a check on you and you have to pull the head for the nice steward.
Not hugely likely, but for the price of a head gasket its better to have one with you.

I personally don't carry oil or tranny fluid because space is so tight. I carry one quart of oil just in case I need to add a little, anything else and I'll run to a parts store. There's also always a vendor or two selling Redline trackside in the SEDIV.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, even the hardened hubs will fail. Again, its a weak point on the car. No matter what you use it will eventually fail. Most folks don't seem to run more than one season without changing them out, certainly not 2 seasons.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Scott, What car are you taking about here? All FWD Hondas?

 

EF Civics and CRXs.

And I just realized I said Hubs in the previous post when I meant Bearings.

But yes, even the hardened hubs will eventually fail. Maybe Adam can give more specific insight since he has put huge amounts of time on a CRX over the past couple of years.
I think he does the LF bearing twice a season and the RF once, but again, thats doing a bunch of enduros.

 

Yeah, Scott's right, we do change the bearings often. I want to say on average, every six races or so on the front left and every other front left change the front right as well. The only damage I recall doing to the hubs was caused by bad bearings (where it cones it down) but Walt always mic's the hubs when he does the bearings to make sure. But yes, we go for the hardened hubs too if available and yes, they too will let go just like you said (I think you are just buying something that will hold up to the stresses longer but I never really analyzed it too much).

 

Thats pretty much what Tom told me about the hardened hubs. They're going to last longer, but they aren't going to last forever.

Neither of my fronts have any play in them right now, but I'm still going to change out both of them after Karl's school. That will be 8 weekends (3 enduros) which is about as far as I want to push it. As Adam mentioned, pressing your luck with the bearings can also cost you hubs.

 

so here's my list of spares, all I'm missing (= haven't bought yet) are the hubs and bearings to go on the spindles:

pads - front set
rotors - pair
rear brake cylinder
lug nuts and studs
Master cylinder
Calipers
drums
distributor
dist. cap and rotor
plug wires
plugs
rad. Hoses - upper and lower
fuel filter
oil filter
alternator belt
ECU
Front UCA
Spindles/Hub
Rear UCA
Headgasket
Halfshafts
Alternator
Clutch cable
rear wheel bearing
water pump
brake lines front and rear
radiator