Hey peoples,

I got some scratches to my Sedan that I need to deal with soon. None of the local auto parts stores have my Opal Green Metallic so is there anywhere online I can find it? If not, what other options do I have?


Also, people have been urging me to change from a Auto to a Manual, and in my process of deciding on what to do I have a question atm. I just thought of this on my own the other day... it seems practical though. When the brake pedal alone is depressed, does the clutch go down too? Would it cause the clutch the slip if I am not braking fully? Makes soooooo much sense.

Thanks.

 

you can get touch-up paint from honda.

no the clutch does not go down at the same time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -333 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no the clutch does not go down at the same time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aww.. thats gay. Why not? It makes perfect sense! I mean, name one point in time were you'd have the brake down and not need the clutch down too?

And I'm going to try to look for this touchup paint on their site but I probably won't find it. do you mean thru the dealership?

 

i can name one time... when you use the brake, and gas at the same time, aka left foot braking if I am not mistaken. Hard on car? ill say yes... effective in keeping weight distributed though, and probably response out of the turn, but hey, im reaching here, no expert, im not an expert at all...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I mean, name one point in time were you'd have the brake down and not need the clutch down too?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you tap you brakes to get the tailgater off of your ***.

http://www.paintscratch.com

 

Well, theoretcially, your not suppose to ever put the brake down w/o the clutch, right? and wouldn't those pulses be bad on the powertrain? Not sure, I've never drive a standard and don't know the tolerance of a manual tranny, so...

And thank you for the link, very much!


Modified by Paprika at 7:07 PM 1/5/2005

 

damn......enough said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwnthehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.paintscratch.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I can't even believe this discussion.

Of COURSE you don't need to clutch every time you brake!!!

Cruising around town in 4th. Slow down a bit for the car infront of you that's turning, but keep it in 4th. Accelerate again in 4th.

Anytime you need to brake on the freeway in 5th

At an auto-x where the car stays in 2nd for the entire run (minus the start, of course) and the brakes are used LIBERALLY.

There's 3 examples of braking w/o touching the clutch.

I weep for the future.

 

What happens when you brake then? This braking action travels thruout the entire power train, wouldn't that bog down the engine, if we don't slip the clutch to death?


and, oh yeah, pay attention to my sig.

 

Uhm.. that's how most people with manual transmissions slow down easier.. You can slow down a lot faster if you downshift and brake, and you don't feel like you're killing your brakes.

Heel toe: Right toe tapping gas for rev match, right heel braking as left foot depresses clutch and one downshifts into a lower gear.. you then have much more power at the tip of your toe for when you get out of a turn, and can slow down much faster (meaning you can go faster for longer before the turn).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uhm.. that's how most people with manual transmissions slow down easier.. You can slow down a lot faster if you downshift and brake, and you don't feel like you're killing your brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They slow down easier by sliping their clutch and/or stalling their engine? If not that, then what are you referring to?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heel toe: Right toe tapping gas for rev match, right heel braking as left foot depresses clutch and one downshifts into a lower gear.. you then have much more power at the tip of your toe for when you get out of a turn, and can slow down much faster (meaning you can go faster for longer before the turn). </TD></TR></TABLE>Strange, your foot is totally horizontal and off the floor. So the brake is in the middle, I thought it was the clutch.

 

Yeahh.. from left to right: Clutch Brake Gas

Heel-toe is a more advanced technique that a lot of auto-xers use. For normal driving, just take out the rev matching part, and brake how you normally would.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uhm.. that's how most people with manual transmissions slow down easier.. You can slow down a lot faster if you downshift and brake, and you don't feel like you're killing your brakes.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Instead of "killing" the brakes you are wearing down your tranny/clutch. Not really cost effective to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dwnthehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Instead of "killing" the brakes you are wearing down your tranny/clutch. Not really cost effective to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Engine braking (i.e. letting the natural action of the engine losing revs slow the car down) doesn't wear down your tranny or clutch. It's reccommended to do this on a long descent instead of boiling your brakes.

The clutch would only wear of it were slipping massively. Last time I checked, the clutch doesn't wear by remaining engaged.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What happens when you brake then? This braking action travels thruout the entire power train, wouldn't that bog down the engine, if we don't slip the clutch to death? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The engine would bog down if you slow the car down to where the revs are at 1000 rpms or something and you're still in 2nd or 3rd. On my 99 Si, it pulls strongly from 2500 rpms in 2nd, so it's not worth the extra time to downshift to first.

 

If your not doing auto-x then why switch to a man trans? For drag racing auto trans is better and (off the subject) for a boosted car auto is better. Also using the brake with it in gear and not pushing on the clutch is the same as when your automatic is in drive and you hit the brake a bit. It doesn't always down shift when you do this. If you are planning to come to a complete stop and in 5th gear you can just hit the brake till the car gets to like 1000 rpms and then just take the car and put it in neutral till you have to go again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dadeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your not doing auto-x then why switch to a man trans? For drag racing auto trans is better and (off the subject) for a boosted car auto is better. Also using the brake with it in gear and not pushing on the clutch is the same as when your automatic is in drive and you hit the brake a bit. It doesn't always down shift when you do this. If you are planning to come to a complete stop and in 5th gear you can just hit the brake till the car gets to like 1000 rpms and then just take the car and put it in neutral till you have to go again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You still have to disengage the clutch to shift to neutral though, no?

Moreoever, go dispute why should someone switch to a manual with the other dudes on this board. I remember the days when I wanted to keep my automatic but I got bashed for even mentioning it (literally!), it was rediculous how bad they made my tranmission out to be.

Personally I want to switch to a manual because it has a direct drive clutch compaired to that lossy torque converter and power isn't lost to a hydralic pump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You still have to disengage the clutch to shift to neutral though, no?

Moreoever, go dispute why should someone switch to a manual with the other dudes on this board. I remember the days when I wanted to keep my automatic but I got bashed for even mentioning it (literally!), it was rediculous how bad they made my tranmission out to be.

Personally I want to switch to a manual because it has a direct drive clutch compaired to that lossy torque converter and power isn't lost to a hydralic pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to if the revs are in the right range, if you know how to shift you can shift 2nd up without even pressing the clutch in (wouldn't recommend it because you can **** **** up). But to answer your question yes I guess most would say you need the clutch to put it into neutral.

If I was into drag racing and boost I would without a doubt have a auto trans, it would hold boost the entire range. I havent looked into hondas autos that much because it just so happens I have a man trans but Im sure you can get a aftermarket torque converter, that will put down power.

 

Hm.. never really thought about an aftermarket torque converter. I thought would be like one of those things that are a waste of time building up, like when people say my D-series is a pos and I shouldn't even spend the cash to buy an intake for it (which I did anyway!).

Before I can look into that I need to fully determine that the torque converter the problem associcated with my initally acceleration problems. Like, I can put the pedal down and feel the revvs go up up but there isn't a constant direct ratio of the revvs vs. the wheel output.

I am also failing to totally see how more torque from the engine helps a manual if it's a direct drive system from the flywheel to the wheels. Like, I see it as the engine moves the wheels at a speed proportional (depending on selected gear) to that of the the engine's revvs. I know more torque = more power, but how does more poer show up? Is it seen in an increase in the speed at which the engine accelerates or what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paprika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hm.. never really thought about an aftermarket torque converter. I thought would be like one of those things that are a waste of time building up, like when people say my D-series is a pos and I shouldn't even spend the cash to buy an intake for it (which I did anyway!).

Before I can look into that I need to fully determine that the torque converter the problem associcated with my initally acceleration problems. Like, I can put the pedal down and feel the revvs go up up but there isn't a constant direct ratio of the revvs vs. the wheel output.

I am also failing to totally see how more torque from the engine helps a manual if it's a direct drive system from the flywheel to the wheels. Like, I see it as the engine moves the wheels at a speed proportional (depending on selected gear) to that of the the engine's revvs. I know more torque = more power, but how does more poer show up? Is it seen in an increase in the speed at which the engine accelerates or what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if you notice big drag racers have autos, I don't know for sure if they have a big market for the torque converters for the d trannys. But if you ever look in jegs for something like chevy 350 turbo trans they make different stall torque converters for putting down power. I personally have never looked for the info on this for Honda's but I don't see why they wouldn't make it. The torque converter does act like a clutch in a way as it slips before it puts down the power. Have you drained your tranny, torque converter, and filter to see if that makes an improvement? Does anyone know if they make "shift kits" for a Honda auto? When I did my impala for street use I used stock converter b&m trans fluid and a B&M shift kit and the car would chirp the tires every gear under medium acceleration. And before that it would barely chirp under hard acceleration. But that was on stock 255/55/17 tires. Then I switched to 285/40/17 and it helped plant the power better and chirp the tires only under hard acceleration. So all in all if you can hook it up with the auto and your into drag racing then stick with the auto and see if B&M makes parts for it, and just again a boosted car will hold boost while shifting which in turn will make you hella faster then a manual.

 

You're talking about floating your gears. Really, it's more of a big rig type deal, but some how, some techniques from other driving schools carry over to places where they shouldnt' be . I can float my gears from 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4...havent tried 5th. It's similiar to rev matching. Pull the car out of gear, put it up against the next gear, slightly blip your throttle (SLIGHTLY) and put it in gear. Remember, you're trying to rev match. More than likely if you're tyring this for the first time though, you'll hear that god awful noise. It can be done down shifting too. Impossible to do at WOT (as you need to rev match). Only real use on a civic/del sol is to save clutch usage i suppose.
As far as engine braking goes, when i was first learning how to drive my straight (and before i found h-t , i searched google for double clutching. Basically, if you're in 5th and want to downshift to 4th, you can clutch to put the car in nuetral, then blip your throttle to bring the rpms to where it would be in 4th gear, clutch again and put it in gear. Very confusing with the feet at first for a beginner, along with the revving, but you'll get it without making your car lean forward, and without your passenger even being able to tell you've downshifted, other than the high rpm sounds and the fact your shifter has moved . I've got to the point now, where i clutch and blip my throttle in mid throw as i'm putting it into gear with my clutch in. After you've down shifted, for even more stopping power, then you can hit your brakes. Makes your car feel like a performance car. I've freaked plenty of people out downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, flying up on a stopped car, and pushing the brakes hard enough to make my car stop, but not lock them up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ragecloak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're talking about floating your gears. Really, it's more of a big rig type deal, but some how, some techniques from other driving schools carry over to places where they shouldnt' be . I can float my gears from 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4...havent tried 5th. It's similiar to rev matching. Pull the car out of gear, put it up against the next gear, slightly blip your throttle (SLIGHTLY) and put it in gear. Remember, you're trying to rev match. More than likely if you're tyring this for the first time though, you'll hear that god awful noise. It can be done down shifting too. Impossible to do at WOT (as you need to rev match). Only real use on a civic/del sol is to save clutch usage i suppose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly my pops was a truck driver for years and taught me how to shift without the clutch. It comes in handy if you have a clutch problem and cant change the clutch right away.

 

Hey, until I get that paint, whats a good primer I can pickup locally to put over these scaves and since it's winter, would drying them with a hair dryer be a good idea?

 

you don't slip your clutch when you slow down with your brake while you remain in gear. everyone who is anyone does it, it saves your brake pads lots of life. your engine has a lot of power that can be used to help slow you down, why use your brakes to do it all.

whenever i come to a stop i put it in 2nd then brake while releasing the clutch, you slow down really quick without much strain. n00bs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civiccpedx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't slip your clutch when you slow down with your brake while you remain in gear. everyone who is anyone does it, it saves your brake pads lots of life. your engine has a lot of power that can be used to help slow you down, why use your brakes to do it all.

whenever i come to a stop i put it in 2nd then brake while releasing the clutch, you slow down really quick without much strain. n00bs</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know you don't slip at that point but you slow the engine down via the brake pads if you don't down shift, because there is no slip anything done to the wheels affects the engine's speed also.

I dunno, maybe Manuals are like my auto, they could slow down just by letting off the gas, consderably.