Ok guys here is the deal, the car has about 200 miles on the freshly built motor and since day one, the car has had a issue where the rotor button and the cap burns up, it actually melts the terminal off of the rotor button, and melts the cap connections inside also. I have included serveral pictures with this for you guys to see what i am talking about, if anyone has ever had this problem please repspond back to me. I Need to fix this issue ASAP!!!!!!!!!!

The car has a MSD 6AL box with a Blaster HVC coil ,Also have tried a blaster SS coil in the past. All of the ignition components have been sent to MSD for testing.

Here are some pics for you to see what i am talking about.













Any help will be appreciated

THanks
Brian

 

Bump back up, i need a anwser or a direction to go in, i am stumped on this one

 

Sounds like too much current too me...other than that I dunno...

I wonder if the clearances are ok inside the cap? Make sure the cap spring loaded button is out far enough to make a firm contact with the rotor. I've noticed this with the MSD caps, that most of them need to be pulled out a little bit.

 

I had both of those components on my H23 (before the MSD died) and I never had that problem. My suggestion would be either go back to stock ignition, or try another distributor and see if it goes away...

 

Of all the motors we have put together.....I never had problems with the spring pressure on either the stock cap or MSD.....

This car we have tried the Honda CAP/Rotor and NAPA parts....same result...

Now we did pull the spring out as you suggested...the car seems to run a little bit better too....but Im gonna put a new button on it and drive it for a couple of days and see whats up......

This is killin me!!!!

Howard

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had both of those components on my H23 (before the MSD died) and I never had that problem. My suggestion would be either go back to stock ignition, or try another distributor and see if it goes away...</TD></TR></TABLE>


I dont see why the distributor would be a problem....it doesnt control the intensity of the spark....The only thing I can think of would be if the shaft is bent and its got a big gap at one side and tight on the other...

The setup is no different then any other Honda.....I even use a larger coil and ignition box on our race car and dont see this much wear in a year of racing and blowing **** up!


Howard

 

mines works good never changed any thing for the pass 4 years and i run the 6al box and blaster 2 coil with a stock cap never even changed the cap lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AR Fab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only thing I can think of would be if the shaft is bent and its got a big gap at one side and tight on the other...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's along the lines of what I was thinking. Maybe there was a small defect with the one you have and it's off balance ever so slightly, or the rotor is out a little further than it should be....anything's possible.

 

a bad ignitor will cause that problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a bad ignitor will cause that problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Could you please go intyo more detail on this?? why would a bad ignitor cause this? i am very curious.

Thanks
Brian

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a bad ignitor will cause that problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would definetly try that out. swap in a known good ignitor.

 

A new ignitor was installed several months ago....but Im interested on how the ignitor would cause so much heat in the rotor.....unless the ignitors dwell is way off...


Howard