Alright So I made a decision to go with Cresent as my tuner, But he will of course ask me what kind of #'s i want to see from this thing.

I am fairly new to this game and have never even driven a high horse honda before so i don't think that pushy it a little harder for the extra horse is at all worth it. I would like to know what I should set this thing at as far as whp. I don't race much, don't have the means to get huge whp to the road anyway so I need to find a happy medium that gives me great whp but doesn't have all this extra whp i don't even use....does this make sence? Basically if i can't get 350 to the road then why push my engine to 400 and loose a bit of reliability for nothing. What do you guys think?

Setup
83mm CP pistons @9to1
Eagle H beam rods
Benson Sleeves
T3T04E on a log mani
ARP head studs, Cometic HG
RC 650's
3" DP and exhaust, No Cat
Walbro 255, Hondata S100w/boost
Spearco fmic (medium size )

Also if any of the tuners out there could give me some things to look for as far as #'s that corespond with reliablity that would be helpful, (like ## _____ will probably not last as long as ##____, Or a Pretty safe A/F ratio should be like this). That would be nice.

And if any of the Turbo b16 guys out there could give me an idea of what kinda boost i will have to run to make 300-400ishwhp that would be sweet.

Thanks Guys

 

shoot for 400 and then just turn the boost down

 

turn it down to what?

 

Usually anything more than 350 on the street is crazy, but I honestly would look on the street to right around 300-325. That would be more than enough and on high boost I would shoot for 400.

 

i have a turbo xs single stage MBC

 

Shoot for 280whp and 350-400 on high boost. after u feel 280 you will be a bit scared to go up to high boost for awhile but U will slowly gain more confidence. on your built motor u will be very reliable even at 400+ so dont sweat it.

 

anybody have any info on the tuning side of this thread? Say i want 300whp is it better to run a little more boost richer? What kind of boost and A/F should i look for.

I ask because when i went to my last tuner i knew nothing about the process and it went badly and would like to be a little more informed about the vital things when I take it to Cresent who i am sure will walk me through it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> on your built motor u will be very reliable even at 400+ so dont sweat it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really?</TD></TR></TABLE>


On a built motor 400hp is very very easy , its other stuff that u have to worry about like axles. but if u have good axles u have nothing to worry about, the reason u buil tthe motor in the first place was to be reliable. U can make 450hp all day long on that motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

really?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, 400 is no sweat on benson sleeves. I have the same setup but different block and rods. I went for 400 and the only thing that happened to my setup was my stock axles

 

all day is one thing but what about all year, or the next 5 years?

 

I would tune the car to around 11.8-12.0 on the dyno....cause on the street it usually tends to go to around 12.3-12.5..and on a cold night might go up a little higher. This way its safe and you'll make good power.

 

that changes do to air temp?

 

yup, and load too...you will also notice the boost gauge read a little higher on colder nights too because of the air density...we recently had a cold day (like -11 with windchill) and then it went back up to 47 degrees, and my car went from YAY this is fast to, OMG this is a piece of ****..

mike

 

cool any other info about the post?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all day is one thing but what about all year, or the next 5 years?</TD></TR></TABLE>


will be fine dude, its a built motor, they wont just break unless there is a bad tune. or you overboost and run lean

 

Thanks Man, good info

 

Shoot for 11.5-12.0 AFR and conservative timing, say 17-18 degrees. Properly tuned the HP numbers will come. If you shoot for a HP number you can set yourself up for dissapointment (if the numbers don't come) and also for engine failure trying to reach the desired HP level. I went into my dyno session looking for extremely conservative timing and AF's and walked away making well over 600whp.

 

holy ****, 600hp


what is conservative timing

 

You guys are great thanks for the info

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shoot for 11.5-12.0 AFR and conservative timing, say 17-18 degrees. Properly tuned the HP numbers will come. If you shoot for a HP number you can set yourself up for dissapointment (if the numbers don't come) and also for engine failure trying to reach the desired HP level. I went into my dyno session looking for extremely conservative timing and AF's and walked away making well over 600whp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just what i wanted to here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shoot for 11.5-12.0 AFR and conservative timing, say 17-18 degrees. Properly tuned the HP numbers will come. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolnG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would tune the car to around 11.8-12.0 on the dyno....cause on the street it usually tends to go to around 12.3-12.5..and on a cold night might go up a little higher. This way its safe and you'll make good power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you tuner guys agree with these #'s. I don't quite understand Air fuel ratio, I think the higher # must be air. The problem is My old shitty tuner told me i was at 13.5 AFR(current tune) and my car runs super rich though. Whats the deal here? Does it have something to do with me running NA right know?

 

general consensous is that 11:5 -12:0 is good for a street turbo car, with a afr like that with conservative timing, you should have a very healthy motor for years.