Can I go to the hardware store and make my own rear camber kit for my 94 hatch? Ive seen in magazines the rear camber is nothing more than a nit and bolt (camber kit)

I was jsut wondering

 

Yea you can. I would get longer bolts to replace the factory ones however, since you will be spacing it out.

 

you can buy a good camber kit pretty cheap i wouldnt want to hack anything it can be done but its much eaiser to adjust witha good camber kit or you could just use shims to bring the camber out but if its to out and you have to bring thecamber in you will need a camber kit

 

yeah you can, but you really should go to an INDUSTRIAL supply place and get grade 8 or better hardware, cuz I've seen home depot bolts just snap for no reason (REALLY poor quality, good for your porch, not good for automotive use).

 

yes, make sure you get new grade 8+ bolts though and you are all set...

rear camber kit for a few bucks

 

Yes, you can do the washer trick to correct up to 3/4 degree safely. You definitely want to get automotive grade bolts and washers because you don't want them breaking on you. We can get you the Ingalls rear shim kit for a fairly low cost and this will take the guess work out of it. If you need far more than 3/4 of a degree of adjustment, then you will definitely benefit from a fully adjustable rear kit. PM me if you have any questions.

 

Some rear camber "kits" are nothing more than longer bolts and washers/spacers.



There's nothing remotely "hack-job" about using strong or stronger than stock grade bolts with washers to achieve the rear camber you want.

Just make sure it's done on an alignment rack so you can redial the toe back within specs, because any adjustments in camber will really mess with the toe settings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just make sure it's done on an alignment rack so you can redial the toe back within specs, because any adjustments in camber will really mess with the toe settings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And TOE is what kills tires, NOT camber.

 

thats all i have seen is washers and longer bolts for hondas but latly we just use a couple of washers. i have seen camber wear tires just as much as toe it just depends on the cars- weights -size- tires- supension

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And TOE is what kills tires, NOT camber.

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Hell some people really **** their tires up WORSE by "fixing" the camber without getting the toe readjusted.

What they don't realize is that while their toe was good before and the camber might have been more than allowable, the tires will wear far worse even with zero camber and some toe in or out!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PABLO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have seen camber wear tires just as much as toe it just depends on the cars- weights -size- tires- supension
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I must disagree.

Take any Honda and give it -1 degree of camber up front, but zero toe.

The tires will not wear uneven at all.

Take that same car and give it zero camber, but this time dial in + or - .5 degrees of toe in/out and the tires will be to the steel belt on the inside within weeks.

People buy camber kits because they usually never align the vehicle after lowering it, which means their TOE was fucked as well as having negative camber. They attribute all of the uneven wear to the camber alone because camber kit companies say so, then they buy the kits. If they still don't get the toe fixed they are only making matters much, much worse.

Have you ever driven a car with a camber kit freshly installed where they dialed out the kits to add roughly +1.5 degrees of camber, but did not get the toe set yet? It's straight up dangerous and far worse off than if they had never fucked with it in the first place.

Toe wears tires far worse than camber - period.I personally purposefully dial in at least -1 degree of camber up front on all 3 of my Civics because they handle like **** with anything closer to zero. Hell my 1990 hatch has -1.5 and -1.6 degrees of camber up front and the ties wear perfectly even because the toe is dead centered.

Does all of this mean that camber kits suck, or they are a waste of money?

No.

But I am saying that some cars have kits that never needed them in the first place. I'll add washers to my rears to get about -.5 degrees of camber, but the front camber needs to be at least -1 IMO for handling. I use camber kits on two of my cars to change the camber if I adjust the ride height of the car, plus the negative camber would have been excessive since the cars ride so low.

You'll never need the amount of adjustment those expensive rear camber arm kits offer - washers will do fine.

Up front for the 1992-2000 Civics then I'd say get a Skunk2, SPC, or Omniman complete upper control arm kits because of the ease of adjustment and the range of adjustment. Upper anchor bolts are a pain in the *** to adjust and over time their bushings wear out, causing slop and squeaking. I still have upper anchor bolt kits on my wife's hatch, but they're so noisy now that I'm ready to upgrade. It did take them a few years to get noisy, but the fact remains they suck to try and adjust and the adjustments are not nearly as precise as with complete upper A-arm kits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hell some people really **** their tires up WORSE by "fixing" the camber without getting the toe readjusted.

What they don't realize is that while their toe was good before and the camber might have been more than allowable, the tires will wear far worse even with zero camber and some toe in or out!

Take any Honda and give it -1 degree of camber up front, but zero toe.

The tires will not wear uneven at all.

Take that same car and give it zero camber, but this time dial in + or - .5 degrees of toe in/out and the tires will be to the steel belt on the inside within weeks.
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Awesome post. I got tired of typing out all that info over and over again when I know someone's just going to throw on a camber kit and not get it aligned anyway. Is this in a sticky somewhere?

I'm running about -1.5*F and -2* rear, and have not had any problems with uneven wear at all; and I'm not exactly running tires designed for longevity. In fact, I'm looking to get a camber kit in the front to dial in more camber, because I still scrub the outside of my tires and have uneven temps across the surface on track days.

 

so i guess wait till I can afford an alignment to get a camber kit.


and which bolt do I replace? I just want to make shure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. teal Type R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and which bolt do I replace? I just want to make shure</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since you're looking to reduce camber from / \ to | |, you'll want to put the washers on the top bolt to space the top of the wheel out more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Since you're looking to reduce camber from / \ to | |, you'll want to put the washers on the top bolt to space the top of the wheel out more.


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actually, I want more negative camber in the rear.