OK, one question. I have a 97 Intgera GSR that has 91k miles on it. I was wanting to know, if I put a bolt-on turbo kit on my car what else do I need to do to it? I am still on my stock block, and nothing else has been done to the car. I have done a compressoin test and it was 208 to 210. What else do I need to do to my car for the turbo kit?

 

a lot of searching and research. as far as the kit goes...exhuast, tuning etc. to name a few...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 Integra GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, one question. I have a 97 Intgera GSR that has 91k miles on it. I was wanting to know, if I put a bolt-on turbo kit on my car what else do I need to do to it? I am still on my stock block, and nothing else has been done to the car. I have done a compressoin test and it was 208 to 210. What else do I need to do to my car for the turbo kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

heh, "bolt on" and "turbo kit". Well, what else you need to do would entirely depend on what comes with the kit, but somehow tapping the oil pan does not sound "bolt on" to me.

Sounds like its time for lots and lots and lots of reading in the FI forum...

 

Agreed. A turbo kit is not a one hour installation like a set of headers. But, this should not turn you away from doing it. Just be sure to read all the info you can, and take your time when you actually install the kit. Do it right the first time.

 

What I mean is, do I need to rebuild the motor in the car

 

bump for a newbie...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gen2moredoors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a lot of searching and research. as far as the kit goes...exhuast, tuning etc. to name a few...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Its a bolt on. Just one that takes a bit longer than changing a throttle body. You'll need to go to colder plugs and run synthetic oil(turbonetics kits come with oil how nice). If its a bolt on turbo kit it should come with some sort of timing and fuel management so that shouldn't be too much of an isuue. I would reccomend doing some engine work to your car but if it's a mechanically sound engine and you can get a good tune on it, it should last a long time.

 

if you have the money and the time. do things in correct order. I dont go into internals in this little guide. This is all on stock internals.

1.) decide what type of boost, and how much you want.

2.) Prepare the car with parts that will remain after the turbo kit is installed (i.e intake manifold, exhaust, pullies)

3.) Change out the clutch. No matter how little the turbo, its always better to have a strong clutch, then need a stronger one. I suggest ACT stage3, or Clutchmaster stage3. Sprung Clutch, unless you like chatter, and having a huge left calf muscle. which comes with the stage4 and higher. You know, those tranny bangin' unsprung clutches. heheh had one in my turbo civ.

4.) as stated above, if you have the time and money, while you are getting the clutch done, swap out the flywheel for a lighter one, and have a limited slip differential put in. If you dont like your tranny, get the gear set/final drive changed out for something more suitable for what you want. (damnit kevin, you had me spoiled with your transmission trickery! (not so civic)

6.) Select a well rounded turbo kit. Nice manifold/downpipe, descent size turbo for your engine (although i had a single cam td04-15g on my 00 b16 and it moved out!) Intercooler is a must, as well as a blow off valve. Decide if you are going small kit which is internally gated, or high output kit, which usually has an external wastegate.

7.) make sure to change the fuel pump. No stock fuel pump is going to like the turbocharged setup. Raised fuel pressure likes to make those things fail. I suggest a 255lph/high flow in-tank fuel pump.

8.) Bigger injectors are nice, along with fuel pressure regulator that allows you to back fuel off. The B&M regulator has this issue where you can raise, but not really lower to a good level. I suggest the AEM where you can change the fuel return size. This will prevent the dreaded start-up problems with over sized injectors. A new fuel rail isnt a must, but its nice to have. Also, try to refrain from using a FMU. They raise the fuel pressure levels 10:1, 12:1, sometimes over 100psi at full boost, which really wears on the injectors. They sometimes like to give out under those levels. Which brings me to my next point.

9.) Fuel management. The v-afc hack has been good to me in my experience with it. It allows you to run big injectors without the FMU. So good fuel pressure levels, and good fuel delivery. The only downside to it was the kick coming on and off the throttle, that got old quick. I highly recommend getting a chipped ECU. P28, socketed, and chipped. I was lucky enough to have a rom burner, laptop, and the knowhow to tune. It was the best fuel management I had used. Uberdata was my platform of choice. I tried hondata, but wasnt thrilled at the whole idea of charging someone for a fuel management system, options like boost and 2step rev limit, then charging them for the software to modify it. I'm all about open source, and the power of combined thinking. So i sold the hondata and went uberdata fully. Open source is cheaper and just as effective. I know some turners swear by hondata and talk **** about the open source software like uberdata and crome, IMHO its because they dont understand entering specific values into cells and thinking on their own, instead of being a button monkey inside of the hondata software and pushing their clients to buy hondata from them. I'm talking about a specific person, so nobody take offense to that. Onward!

10) At some point in this ever growing quest to throw money into your car, make sure you have the right gauges to let you know whats going on. A must is boost. Those autometer a/f gauges give you a ball park on where you are in your air fuel mixture, but dont use that for razor edge fuel tuning. Water temp is good, oil pressure is important, and oil temp isnt bad to have either. EGT is something that everyone should have, if not just on cylinder 3, on all 4...(someday im going to do that!) and last but not least...

11.) Wideband. I had one in my last teg before it was stolen, and it rode around with me everywhere. I had the break out gauge installed so if I decided to fuel tune on the road, i'd be able to see the results immediately. Like I said, if you have the money. I had the innovate wide band, which was pretty cool, the old school needle breakout gauge sucks, but i've seen they have a new one with a digital read out. I plan on having that in my new GSR which im about to turbocharge the bejesus out of. Uberdata does datalogging with lambda trace, which was flippin' sweet! It directly supports the innovate wideband sensor. I had it wired directly into the ecu and had the chip read the wideband instead of the factory o2.

Well anyway, hope this helps. I'm sure everyone has their own ways of doing this, i'm just sharing my experience with two turbocharged engines, and countless different turbo/fuel management setups. Enjoy!

 

Hey guys thanks for the info, I'm new at all of this. This is my first car that I have done or going to do anything with. My truck is the only other vehicle that I have done anything with. I need all the help I can get from people that has experince with this type of cars. So thanks for the help that you gave me.

 

Whoa, are you a certified mechanic?
How did you tune your own fuel management? was it hard/costly?
Hows the Greddy 96-99 GSR turbo kit? does it come with most of the parts needed?

i was thiking of going with it on a stock 96 GSR w head/bottom end? bad ideal? i would get a EVO2 exhaust, AEM FPRings before the turbo kit. I also heard the greddy kit doesnt come with Intercooler?

I've already searched a lot on this kit, and read what ive found. I feel its good for me cause i want a quick response small turbo in the 5-7 psi range. I still need my car to be very reliable as it is a daily driver but i do want some good power gains. Don't want to do internals because thats too costly. ( althought id love to do it right and do them ) Im not sure but i think this kit would put me in the 200-230whp area and hopefully i could easily pull consistent mid 14s with some good street tires. Looking to spend in the 5K area on the turbo kit and install.Thats what im aiming for, some suggestions???????

 

You can get the Greddy Kits that come with the nice front mount, but they not all of them do. You will notice the nice price difference between the kit that comes with the Front mount, and the one that doesn't! -- DJMatix, what turbo kit were you running on your two turbo cars? You sound very knowledgable...