My cooling fan fuse keeps blowing - got questions
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From: Ardmore, Pa, US
My cooling fan fuse keeps blowing - got questions
See M/Y below --
The 20 amp cooling fan fuse in the engine compartment of my Honda keeps blowing. The cooling fan works. I can either leave the cooling fan come on by itself after engine shuts off, or I can jump the ECT switch (referring to the green colored connector, with the purple plug looking switch that stands up vertically - near the coolant air bleeding valve).
It goes like this. Fan comes on, runs a little bit, starts to slow down, tries to speed back up to normal and then pop the fuse goes. I switched the two identical part numbered relays in the engine compartment (the ones right behind the cooling fan fuse) but it still blows. I'm skeptical anyway that both relays are bad all of a sudden. One of those relays runs the power windows. So, I switched their positions and both of them powered the windows. So much for that theory.
Btw, I also pulled both relays for bench testing. I applied battery voltage as per Haynes Manual, chapter 3, page 3-5, sec 4.5c, but there is no continuity with voltage, as Haynes suggest there should be. Yet both relays will power the windows. So, I'm thinking Haynes has once again F_____! up cut and pasting another one of their typos ... Perhaps Haynes got the relay pic reversed and the A&C terminals should be B&D terminals?
I can tell you that I have worked around Volvo relays and Volvos have POS relays, and I know a lousy relay when I see one. These Honda relays look mighty sound and well made but who am I to say. I could cut them open with a Dremel - But if I do, do they have a circuit board that can be resoldered? However, why even bother, since they both power the windows?
The Haynes Manual says to check the Fan Control Module (FCM) and if the fuse(s) are good, then suspect the FCM. I checked the other cooling fan fuse in the drivers side footwell area and it is a good fuse, it's not blown. So, one fuse is blown and one is not blown, does that mean part of the FCM is good? ...
The only thing left to suspect is the fan motor itself, or a part of the motor, electrical connector, brushes, etc., or the wiring in the radiator cooling system somewhere? Anyone know what it might be or what I can check?
Modified by diyer at 2:28 PM 1/1/2005
Modified by diyer at 2:29 PM 1/1/2005
The 20 amp cooling fan fuse in the engine compartment of my Honda keeps blowing. The cooling fan works. I can either leave the cooling fan come on by itself after engine shuts off, or I can jump the ECT switch (referring to the green colored connector, with the purple plug looking switch that stands up vertically - near the coolant air bleeding valve).
It goes like this. Fan comes on, runs a little bit, starts to slow down, tries to speed back up to normal and then pop the fuse goes. I switched the two identical part numbered relays in the engine compartment (the ones right behind the cooling fan fuse) but it still blows. I'm skeptical anyway that both relays are bad all of a sudden. One of those relays runs the power windows. So, I switched their positions and both of them powered the windows. So much for that theory.
Btw, I also pulled both relays for bench testing. I applied battery voltage as per Haynes Manual, chapter 3, page 3-5, sec 4.5c, but there is no continuity with voltage, as Haynes suggest there should be. Yet both relays will power the windows. So, I'm thinking Haynes has once again F_____! up cut and pasting another one of their typos ... Perhaps Haynes got the relay pic reversed and the A&C terminals should be B&D terminals?
I can tell you that I have worked around Volvo relays and Volvos have POS relays, and I know a lousy relay when I see one. These Honda relays look mighty sound and well made but who am I to say. I could cut them open with a Dremel - But if I do, do they have a circuit board that can be resoldered? However, why even bother, since they both power the windows?
The Haynes Manual says to check the Fan Control Module (FCM) and if the fuse(s) are good, then suspect the FCM. I checked the other cooling fan fuse in the drivers side footwell area and it is a good fuse, it's not blown. So, one fuse is blown and one is not blown, does that mean part of the FCM is good? ...
The only thing left to suspect is the fan motor itself, or a part of the motor, electrical connector, brushes, etc., or the wiring in the radiator cooling system somewhere? Anyone know what it might be or what I can check?
Modified by diyer at 2:28 PM 1/1/2005
Modified by diyer at 2:29 PM 1/1/2005
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