I am gitting a turbo of a stock eagle tallin. Normally it runs 14 pounds of boost so i am going to buy a new spring for the waste gate but i have a question. how much boost can my 2000 honda accord se sohc vtec handle?

 

None. My 2000 accord SE was a treat.

I'm on my 2nd tranny and uninstalled the turbo.

6th gen auto trannies suck and it's most unwise to try and add power to them.

And a turbo off of the 'tallin' is no good. It's way too small. You will not see anything with that, it'll probably break trying to get your engine up over 60 mph.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordselux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None. My 2000 accord SE was a treat.

I'm on my 2nd tranny and uninstalled the turbo.

6th gen auto trannies suck and it's most unwise to try and add power to them.

And a turbo off of the 'tallin' is no good. It's way too small. You will not see anything with that, it'll probably break trying to get your engine up over 60 mph.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ok well if i get a new trannie will it work ok. right now the turbo is running 14 pounds verry well too and it is on a 2.0. why would it not give me anything.

 

first off... you dont need a new spring to change the wastegate pressure, it should be an internal gate not external on that turbo.

you would see some gains with a properly done turbo setup ( proper meaning no shortcuts, esp. on fuel management), but it would not be any very large gains with that small of a turbocharger.

I run 10 psi on a quite large turbo... stock motor f22b1 for now... others have run a bit more without problems ( its all in setup and tuning mostly).

 

A manual swap can be done it's more expensive than a lot of auto-manual swaps (i've been looking at civics) but people here have done it.

The accord block can handle 10 lbs of boost without problems, but you never stress a setup greater than your weakest link. Since your tranny is the weakest link, i would avoid it. I'd swap to manual before i'd try this.

 

i am going to trade a guy waste gates for one that runs 8 psi. then since the trannie brakes when haveing boost running to it constant i am going to get a boost controler and have it run 0 psi when i am driving but when i race turn it up to 10 psi. then i will get my new trannie in like 2-3 months.

 

weakest link in f accords is auto tranny and piston rings

 

[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shanevas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am going to trade a guy waste gates for one that runs 8 psi. then since the trannie brakes when haveing boost running to it constant i am going to get a boost controler and have it run 0 psi when i am driving but when i race turn it up to 10 psi. then i will get my new trannie in like 2-3 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt know it was possible to run "0 psi"... I'm no turbo expert though so dont quote me on that. It seems like you dont know much about turbo's either, so do research, alot of research, and figure out what setup is best for your car. I've seen and heard of nice dsm turbo setups on accords, but I've also heard negative things about them not producing enough power through all rpm's for the F.
And definately get rid of that tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TSAF22B1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[

I didnt know it was possible to run "0 psi"... I'm no turbo expert though so dont quote me on that. It seems like you dont know much about turbo's either, so do research, alot of research, and figure out what setup is best for your car. I've seen and heard of nice dsm turbo setups on accords, but I've also heard negative things about them not producing enough power through all rpm's for the F.
And definately get rid of that tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

technically, you can run 0 psi....just have the wastegate always open at full, so all the boosted air will just leave out the dump tube

 

8 psi isnt really "safe", i'd say 4-6 lbs daily would be better...

 

i thought i was able to boost up to 10 pri? i dont want to do too much work with the turbo because in like 6-8 monthes i am sinding it to callie and gitting the hole thing rebuilt so is shift point is 9000 and will have my car running 12s but i dont have the money right now. i am friends with the guy i am gitting the turbo from so he is selling me a supra intercooler the he thinks it is about a t25 turbo pipeing blowoff and piping for oil andradeator hoses. all for 50

 

If you have a manual transmission get a performance clutch and have fun with your 10 lbs of boost. The engine's as stout as the transmission.

If you have an automatic, forget it. The engine is the pinnacle of this setup, since it's a big strong iron block. The auto tranny is weak and I wouldnt push it unless you just wnat to blow it and get it over with...but be careful it could crap out on the freeway goin like 80 or something...

 

man u are gonna have to get a custom manifold to run that turbo... it's not just gonna line up on there.. lotsa money involved in that range... my advice just spend the money and get the turbonetics kit that is made for the car.... don't try to piece together cuz u'll end up spendin more than what u would pay for a turbo kit from a company!!

 

we know how to do custom pipeing and welding. i have the metel to make th flange. then he has all the pipeing for the intercooler. whats going to cost money is the times and controlers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shanevas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought i was able to boost up to 10 pri? i dont want to do too much work with the turbo because in like 6-8 monthes i am sinding it to callie and gitting the hole thing rebuilt so is shift point is 9000 and will have my car running 12s but i dont have the money right now. i am friends with the guy i am gitting the turbo from so he is selling me a supra intercooler the he thinks it is about a t25 turbo pipeing blowoff and piping for oil andradeator hoses. all for 50</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not trying to be mean or anything, but IMO you need to do some more research before you start getting too into things.

If you dont want to do too much work a turbo setup is not for you... esp. a pieced together setup. You should save for a drag or fmax kit if you want an easier path... or try b_ron007 on here, who is selling a nice used setup.

 

i decided not to send it off because i was talking to my grandpa and he brought up a good putin. when your compression is that high you brake alot of other stuff so it would be better for me to go turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shanevas2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i decided not to send it off because i was talking to my grandpa and he brought up a good putin. when your compression is that high you brake alot of other stuff so it would be better for me to go turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

honestly, i think twkdCD595 is right. you need to spend more time learning about forced induction before you start on this project. (no offense)

why do you want your redline at 9000? it's not as simple as: raise the redline -&gt; get more power. you would have to some major building of the motor to be able to rev that high reliably, and it would cost quite a bit of money. judging from your choice of FI components, it doesn't look like you really want to spend that much...

 

After about 6500 RPM the F's start to lose power actually, if you look at dynos i believe. It would be pointless to rev it past useful numbers instead of getting performance out of the sweet spots...

 

no if i sent it off they would put all new parts in it. new pistions cam everything lifters. i would be a f23 shell but not a f23. the compression would be 12.13.1