Hope for my Diamond Audio HEX's?
I seem to be the ONLY one complaining about the HEX's. Mids... ehh.. okay, NO BASS what so ever though. Im not looking for boomin bass, but it just doesnt sound full. I get a very MONO sound from these components. FLAT is the best way to explain it. What does tuning consist of? this is what i have
Apline 9815 and im using the built in 5 band EQ and crossover.
JL 300/4 amp - crossover isnt being used cause im using the Alpine's
And i plan on dynamatting my car one i get back. so what else can i do to bring out the STEREO sound of my HEX's? They are just LOUD and thats about it. The tweeters start to break up at high volume. And i dont mean like ear piercing volume.
Apline 9815 and im using the built in 5 band EQ and crossover.
JL 300/4 amp - crossover isnt being used cause im using the Alpine's
And i plan on dynamatting my car one i get back. so what else can i do to bring out the STEREO sound of my HEX's? They are just LOUD and thats about it. The tweeters start to break up at high volume. And i dont mean like ear piercing volume.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I seem to be the ONLY one complaining about the HEX's. Mids... ehh.. okay, NO BASS what so ever though. Im not looking for boomin bass, but it just doesnt sound full. I get a very MONO sound from these components. FLAT is the best way to explain it. What does tuning consist of? this is what i have
Apline 9815 and im using the built in 5 band EQ and crossover.
JL 300/4 amp - crossover isnt being used cause im using the Alpine's
And i plan on dynamatting my car one i get back. so what else can i do to bring out the STEREO sound of my HEX's? They are just LOUD and thats about it. The tweeters start to break up at high volume. And i dont mean like ear piercing volume.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The first thing I would check for is phase of the speakers, [very MONO sound] this is what will happen when speakers are wired out of phase with each other, no bass, and mono sounding. I would check all the speaker wireing from the amp to the passive x-over and from the x-over to the tweets and mids.
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Apline 9815 and im using the built in 5 band EQ and crossover.
JL 300/4 amp - crossover isnt being used cause im using the Alpine's
And i plan on dynamatting my car one i get back. so what else can i do to bring out the STEREO sound of my HEX's? They are just LOUD and thats about it. The tweeters start to break up at high volume. And i dont mean like ear piercing volume.
</TD></TR></TABLE>The first thing I would check for is phase of the speakers, [very MONO sound] this is what will happen when speakers are wired out of phase with each other, no bass, and mono sounding. I would check all the speaker wireing from the amp to the passive x-over and from the x-over to the tweets and mids.
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yeah im definately going to check ALL that out. Cause i know that these arent supposed to sound like this. Do you know if i even have to mess with the jumpers in the HEX crossovers?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah im definately going to check ALL that out. Cause i know that these arent supposed to sound like this. Do you know if i even have to mess with the jumpers in the HEX crossovers?</TD></TR></TABLE>The jumpers will be for adjusting the output of the tweets.
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well i just bought a new car, so im going to leave the HEX's in my Civic and start fresh with this new car.
Focal Polyglass 165V2
MB Quart PCE-216
Kappas
JL XR's
Which one? they are all around $250 shipped.
Focal Polyglass 165V2
MB Quart PCE-216
Kappas
JL XR's
Which one? they are all around $250 shipped.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i just bought a new car, so im going to leave the HEX's in my Civic and start fresh with this new car.
Focal Polyglass 165V2
MB Quart PCE-216
Kappas
JL XR's
Which one? they are all around $250 shipped.</TD></TR></TABLE> Well ****, I wish I could afford to go out and get a new car, just because my speakers aren't working properly
LOL The MBs then the JLs , Kappas, Focals in that order.
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Focal Polyglass 165V2
MB Quart PCE-216
Kappas
JL XR's
Which one? they are all around $250 shipped.</TD></TR></TABLE> Well ****, I wish I could afford to go out and get a new car, just because my speakers aren't working properly
LOL The MBs then the JLs , Kappas, Focals in that order.
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Yeah, i said **** it, so i bought a TSX. Which one that list have you heard in person? I know they all sound great, ill just have to listen for myself, but no one has any of them to listen to.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, i said **** it, so i bought a TSX. Which one that list have you heard in person? I know they all sound great, ill just have to listen for myself, but no one has any of them to listen to.</TD></TR></TABLE>T have heard and installed all of them, I like the MBs and the JLs the best, they do have a diff. sound, the MBs have a "brighter" sound, and maybe a more accurate sound, the JLs are "softer" but with a little more punch
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i want components that will have some punch, not too much cause ill have subs, but are not dull, and pretty acurate. NOt too bright though. Confusing? lol.
Sorry to jump into your thread 1SlowSi, but since this started as a Diamond Audio topic I had a quick question about them.
I had a set of Diamond Audio M56.1 components a LONG time ago and can't remember how "bright" they were. I'm putting together a new setup and considering the purchase of a set of M661's (replaced the M5 series) and wanted anyone's opinions on their midrange performance compared to the HEX's. I listen to a bunch of different kinds of music and don't want to be lacking SQ because my components are too "high strung."
I guess I'm wondering whether the Diamond Audio M6 series components have these types of characteristics: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"softer" but with a little more punch
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I had a set of Diamond Audio M56.1 components a LONG time ago and can't remember how "bright" they were. I'm putting together a new setup and considering the purchase of a set of M661's (replaced the M5 series) and wanted anyone's opinions on their midrange performance compared to the HEX's. I listen to a bunch of different kinds of music and don't want to be lacking SQ because my components are too "high strung."
I guess I'm wondering whether the Diamond Audio M6 series components have these types of characteristics: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"softer" but with a little more punch
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want components that will have some punch, not too much cause ill have subs, but are not dull, and pretty acurate. NOt too bright though. Confusing? lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>I know it can sometimes be a pain, but the best thing to do is to find a car audio shop, [ones that have more then one type of speaker you are looking for] and bring along some test tunes, and then listen and compare, what sounds good to me may not be what sounds good to you
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know it can sometimes be a pain, but the best thing to do is to find a car audio shop, [ones that have more then one type of speaker you are looking for] and bring along some test tunes, and then listen and compare, what sounds good to me may not be what sounds good to you
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...and always remember that the speakers mounted on a sound board will NEVER sound the same in your car.
FYI: "Bright" -> "Sharp" sounding speakers typically have metal dome tweeters, titanium or aluminum. Softer sounding drivers use silk. If you find speakers that sound too "punchy" you can always turn them down. However, if they're not "punchy" enough, you can only turn them up so far before they distort.
94</TD></TR></TABLE>...and always remember that the speakers mounted on a sound board will NEVER sound the same in your car.
FYI: "Bright" -> "Sharp" sounding speakers typically have metal dome tweeters, titanium or aluminum. Softer sounding drivers use silk. If you find speakers that sound too "punchy" you can always turn them down. However, if they're not "punchy" enough, you can only turn them up so far before they distort.
i just got done talking to my buddy that ran the HEX's. The reason why his sounded so damn good was because he dynamatted the hell out of this enclosure. i think he was using kick panels. When i say good, i mean they sounded BADASS. mids, lows, highs. not mine. ill see what i can do to make them sound better. As for my new truck, i think the sound is going to be alot better in there. Everything seems air tight in that thing. doors solid.
are you sure that he has the US made HEX or does he have the old ETON built ones from Germany - I've done everything in my power to make those HEX sound good (the US ones) - kicks, dynamatted doors, a ton of power, everything and they always sounded thin on the low end.
dude thank god im not the only one. heres the deal. Welll first off. he had those a few years ago. who knows where they were made. but for me.. mine sound VERY flat and has a mono sound. the tweeters are okay other than the fact they break up at high volume. these are loud but not very balanced. i dunno what tha deal is. i hate em. point blank. they do the job OKAY i guess. maybe im just not used to hearing just voice and mids coming from a 6.5"????? cause im used to hearing it all from factory's? Cause now that i think about it, almost all components kinda have that mono sound from the 6.5" speaker. am i right? probably not, but im just trying to make the situation better.
I don't know what you mean by "mono" sound.....they may sound thin, and you might be mistaking that for mono....but if they have no bass - then they are indeed diamond hex.
the Eton drivers are VERY deep drivers - over 3" iirc, while the US drivers are shallow. I thought those tweeters sounded pretty good actually - I was happy with my set, just unhappy with the midbass performance.
I didn't read the whole thread, but have you tried playing with phase on the drivers individually - this can make a huge difference to the overall sound of your car. Typically cars with door mounted mids stage better with the passenger side mid flipped out of phase with the driver side one. Also, depending on where the tweeters are, they could benefit from some phase manipulation as well.
the Eton drivers are VERY deep drivers - over 3" iirc, while the US drivers are shallow. I thought those tweeters sounded pretty good actually - I was happy with my set, just unhappy with the midbass performance.
I didn't read the whole thread, but have you tried playing with phase on the drivers individually - this can make a huge difference to the overall sound of your car. Typically cars with door mounted mids stage better with the passenger side mid flipped out of phase with the driver side one. Also, depending on where the tweeters are, they could benefit from some phase manipulation as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pleas explain on the phase?? what is that exactly and how can i do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.....html
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kontai69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.....html</TD></TR></TABLE>
sigh....don't use crutchfield as a reference for SQ audio...exhibit A:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dumbass from Crutchfield »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Check speaker phase! The speakers in your system should all be firing in phase — simply put, all the cones should be moving out and in at the same time. If they're not, you lose bass response, making your system sound anemic and unfocused. It's important to check all your speakers, even if your system was professionally installed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is just plain wrong. Your speakers should be wired as they sound best!!! Not according to how someone labeled some terminals. Start with it wired up in phase, then experiment as necessary. I'd virtually guarentee that most (if not all) of the top sq cars out there are wired out of mechanical phase in some way....
sigh....don't use crutchfield as a reference for SQ audio...exhibit A:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dumbass from Crutchfield »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Check speaker phase! The speakers in your system should all be firing in phase — simply put, all the cones should be moving out and in at the same time. If they're not, you lose bass response, making your system sound anemic and unfocused. It's important to check all your speakers, even if your system was professionally installed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is just plain wrong. Your speakers should be wired as they sound best!!! Not according to how someone labeled some terminals. Start with it wired up in phase, then experiment as necessary. I'd virtually guarentee that most (if not all) of the top sq cars out there are wired out of mechanical phase in some way....
Wow, yeah i learn something new everyday. i actually thought that wiring them wrong would mess something up. ill play with it. If i reverse it, should i do it to both sides? Also... should i even have to mess with the jumpers in the cross over? they are set to factory specs. What could i make it sound like by changing them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, yeah i learn something new everyday. i actually thought that wiring them wrong would mess something up. ill play with it. If i reverse it, should i do it to both sides? Also... should i even have to mess with the jumpers in the cross over? they are set to factory specs. What could i make it sound like by changing them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, you can't hurt anything - audio signal just oscillates - like a sine wave - so flipping phase essentially makes the cone move "in" instead of "out" The negative wire is not a "ground" like it is in an electrical circut.
You should start with every driver in phase - then flip one at a time and see what happens. When you do this, use music that is VERY well recorded for the best effects - no rap, no mp3's. Depending on your musical taste - something like pink floyd will stage well, anything from the dave matthews band would help....you gett my drift...
It's been a long time since I've seen those crossovers - IIRC the only jumpers there are for tweeter attenuation and for the RAF option? I'd set the tweeters identical and whereever they seem to blend best. IF you need the manual, you can download it at http://www.diamondaudio.com
Also, swap the polarity (phase) at the crossover, not at the amplifier
IF the crossover is difficult to reach (depends on where it's installed - and this is why I recommend that you NEVER install crossovers in doors) you can swap it at the drivers as well.
no, you can't hurt anything - audio signal just oscillates - like a sine wave - so flipping phase essentially makes the cone move "in" instead of "out" The negative wire is not a "ground" like it is in an electrical circut.
You should start with every driver in phase - then flip one at a time and see what happens. When you do this, use music that is VERY well recorded for the best effects - no rap, no mp3's. Depending on your musical taste - something like pink floyd will stage well, anything from the dave matthews band would help....you gett my drift...
It's been a long time since I've seen those crossovers - IIRC the only jumpers there are for tweeter attenuation and for the RAF option? I'd set the tweeters identical and whereever they seem to blend best. IF you need the manual, you can download it at http://www.diamondaudio.com
Also, swap the polarity (phase) at the crossover, not at the amplifier
IF the crossover is difficult to reach (depends on where it's installed - and this is why I recommend that you NEVER install crossovers in doors) you can swap it at the drivers as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, yeah i learn something new everyday. i actually thought that wiring them wrong would mess something up. ill play with it. If i reverse it, should i do it to both sides? Also... should i even have to mess with the jumpers in the cross over? they are set to factory specs. What could i make it sound like by changing them?</TD></TR></TABLE> I agree with rcurley55, output from any amp is AC, [ if your getting DC its a bad thing] so there is no right or wrong way to wire a speaker, other then, what sounds the best to you, will be the right way, that said, I disagree, or maybe I misunderstand the left and right speakers have to be in phase with each other, [wired the same] this is very important at lower frequency, wiring the left and right woofer of a comp. set out of phase with each other will affect bass responce, but wiring the tweets out of phase with each other is less noticeable, [ no bass] it will have an affect and I have evan had customers that want it that way, [ sound the way you like it] but wiring your tweets "out of phase" with the woofers can have a possitive affect on SQ and can give you imaging that you can't get if everything is wired + to + and - to - .
As for the jumpers, they are put there so you can "tune" the speakers for the sound you want.
So like rcurley55 suggests get some music with good wide frequency range, [also needs to be something you like] and play around with phasing and the jumpers till you get the sound that you like
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As for the jumpers, they are put there so you can "tune" the speakers for the sound you want.
So like rcurley55 suggests get some music with good wide frequency range, [also needs to be something you like] and play around with phasing and the jumpers till you get the sound that you like
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Wow, thats a little much for me to take in right now. Well first off, im not going to touch the rear 6x9's.. they sound freakin awesome! Do most people even touch the rears? Just curious. yeah the fronts. I will read your posts a few times to understand it, but i do have one question. Do i switch the leads at the line in or the line out for the woofer? Line in would throw the whole thing off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SlowSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, thats a little much for me to take in right now. Well first off, im not going to touch the rear 6x9's.. they sound freakin awesome! Do most people even touch the rears? Just curious. yeah the fronts. I will read your posts a few times to understand it, but i do have one question. Do i switch the leads at the line in or the line out for the woofer? Line in would throw the whole thing off.</TD></TR></TABLE>Switching the line in, will rev. the phaseof everything "downstream" so the x-over, tweet and woofer, the same would happen if you switch it at the amps output, and is something I would try, [ remember the same for both the left and right ch.] Try this, switch one side, take a listen, [it will be out of phase] now switch the other side, [back in phase] listen again, now switch both left and right back to the way you started, [ still in phase] you can do this at the amp if its easier, also remember that before you start "phase checking" make sure everythind is wired in phase, + out of amp to the + line in on the x-over, - out of amp to - line in on the x-over, [both sides] then the + lines out of the X-over to the + on the tweet and the woofer, same for the - . You need a starting point, there are more then a few ways to wire them . The reason I asked you to try the above is because when a left and right ch. are out of phase, [same if you wire 2, of the same, speakers out of phase, off one ch.] it makes a big differance in sound, but it will make it easy for you to hear what happens, [ it will also be one of the ways you will not want to wire them]. But wiring tha tweets out of phase with the woofers, may be something that you like the sound of, just by mounting the tweeter farther away or at a diff. angle, then the woofer, among other things, will change the phase .
You say you don't want to mess with the rear 6x9s but I bet if you play around with the fronts and you find the sound you want, you will at least want to switch the rears just to see what it does, I have run into more then one system that a customer thought it sounded great, but was looking to do some upgrading, the first thing we do is check out what they have, and see how it sounds and how its installed, so we know what to do to improve on it, and sometime we can surprise them, by just rewiring the rear or front speakers, [ to put them in phase with each other] Try it you may like it
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You say you don't want to mess with the rear 6x9s but I bet if you play around with the fronts and you find the sound you want, you will at least want to switch the rears just to see what it does, I have run into more then one system that a customer thought it sounded great, but was looking to do some upgrading, the first thing we do is check out what they have, and see how it sounds and how its installed, so we know what to do to improve on it, and sometime we can surprise them, by just rewiring the rear or front speakers, [ to put them in phase with each other] Try it you may like it
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