typeeg

I just tried switched from regular motor oil to synthetic this week and I tell you it is definitely worth it.
I believe if you buy motorcycle specific synthetics, it will run you around 8-10 dollars a quart. You can get mobile 1 15w-50 for around 4 bucks a quart. After switching over my tranny shifts effortlessly and the bike runs smoother than it ever has
Go try this oil if you haven't yet... definitely some good stuff

busa1300

Yes mobil one is good stuff. I have been running it in my bikes since 93.

knuttsachel

Even better, try Repsol Sintetico. I like it a little better than Mobil 1. Colemans carries it.

typeeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tlaskin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even better, try Repsol Sintetico. I like it a little better than Mobil 1. Colemans carries it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

$?

Home Skillet

I believe it's $9 per quart.

ScareyH22A

Motul

Mag00n

15w-50 seems a little thick

knuttsachel

I get Repsol for about $4.35 a quart from Coleman. But then I know most of the poeple there too!

Mike Panic

does everyone here know that running full synth in wet clutch motorcycles is a BAD idea?

wet clutch motorcycles use the engines oil to lubricate the clutch, and using a full synth or even semi-synth motor oil tends to be too slippery and can promote clutch wear and failure at a much faster pase then regular oil changes with motorcycle specific oil (recomend motul 3000)

having worked for a custom bike shop all summer, i saw several bikes w/ competant riders burn clutches in under 5k miles w/out any out of normal every day riding on them because they used full synth oil - and dealing w/ dealerships and parts/service centers on a daily basis, i got friendly w/ all the area ones fast and have discussed this problem w/ them and they run into the same problems.

the only time you should be using a full synth oil in a bike would be for a dry clutch, like a harely or ducati

CBRF4i

You gotta buy the Mobil 1 specifically made for bike engines they kept the wet clutch in mind when making the oil. Its on the mobil1 website they said they take out the additives that hurt wet clutches.

Son

Not another oil thread. Oil discusions are like religous discousions, it will never end.

I currently use MOBILE 1 15W-50. Best oil for street bikes. Never had a clutch slip ever. Runs cooler. Not one problem with it. Know lots of track junkies that use it with no problem also.

My second choice would be Motul 5100 semi-syn(not motul 3000)

You can even be cheap and buy Shell Rotella T 15W40 from Walmart and you will be fine. Just dont use Oils with the energy energy conserving mark on the API stamp.

And no you dont have to use Motorcycle specific oils

Other oils to look at: motorex, elf, amsoil


Modified by Son at 6:58 PM 12/31/2004


Modified by Son at 7:20 PM 12/31/2004

85

AHHHHH!!!!!! Another motor oil thread.

About 2 months ago i contacted 4 major high end petro company with the question.
Q: With money as no issue, what is the best Oil i can run in my motorcycle???
the replies were all the same.
"Most important, make sure the oil you use is designed specifically for motorcycles. As for what grade, Synthetic is almost always better because every molecule is of a certain size and shape. with regular oil, its just a bunch of crap thrown together, sort of." of course all that was said wasn't worded exactly like i wrote it but that was the gist of it. Running full synthetic allows better oil life, better engine protection, even better cooling. the mistake often made with synthetic is that some synthetic have anti ware additives made for cars which make the clutch slip. I don't want to argue with anyone on this subject so please you you are unsure of what im saying and don't believe me, Email or call a petro company who makes the stuff.
Cliff Notes:
1) Synthetic is Better
2) Lasts longer
3) It doesn't make clutch slip
4) Talk to the people who make the oil the get the accurate info

Son

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hks85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the mistake often made with synthetic is that some synthetic have anti ware additives made for cars which make the clutch slip. </TD></TR></TABLE>Its called molybdenum disulfide.
I agree with you except for the---&gt; "Most important, make sure the oil you use is designed specifically for motorcycles"

Etylorcen

Not just motorcycle specific but motorcycle specific for wet clutches. Some bike oils have moly. Mobil mx4t

UNforgivABLE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mag00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15w-50 seems a little thick </TD></TR></TABLE>

busa1300

Boy after reading the responses after my first one I can tell there are a lot of people that just repeat what they have heard (rumors and such). I have logged over 75K miles on bikes running Mobil 1 car oil not their over priced motorcycle oil and have never had a clutch slip. Most of the people at the local road race course also use it. If your clutch slips most likely there was something wrong with it to start with (too many clutch wheelies, burn outs, ECT). I have tried motul (over priced and didn't see any benefit from it) Red line (over priced). The clutch currently in my bike has over 25K miles on it all since the turbo was installed (so it has been transferring up to of 310Hp to the rear wheel)

How come so many people believe the rumors about oil but they still insist on putting fuel in their bike with way more octane than required (100+ octane race gas) think it will give them more HP?


hsk85: Did you honestly think the company’s selling the oil is going to tell you there isn't much difference between there normal oil and the motorcycle oil. When they can make an extra $4 a quart off you. For oil that’s in your bike for maybe 3K miles then changed.

85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Son &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its called molybdenum disulfide.
I agree with you except for the---&gt; "Most important, make sure the oil you use is designed specifically for motorcycles"</TD></TR></TABLE>


i like when people do that, its nice to see people who just know, or go out of their way to find out nice. And i guess the most important thing is that you have the correct level of oil and not 5qts too much lol. na jk...

-P.S.
And isn't it spelled "disulphide"? hahaha no for real is it?

85

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by busa1300 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boy after reading the responses after my first one I can tell there are a lot of people that just repeat what they have heard (rumors and such). I have logged over 75K miles on bikes running Mobil 1 car oil not their over priced motorcycle oil and have never had a clutch slip. Most of the people at the local road race course also use it. If your clutch slips most likely there was something wrong with it to start with (too many clutch wheelies, burn outs, ECT). I have tried motul (over priced and didn't see any benefit from it) Red line (over priced). The clutch currently in my bike has over 25K miles on it all since the turbo was installed (so it has been transferring up to of 310Hp to the rear wheel)

How come so many people believe the rumors about oil but they still insist on putting fuel in their bike with way more octane than required (100+ octane race gas) think it will give them more HP?


hsk85: Did you honestly think the company’s selling the oil is going to tell you there isn't much difference between there normal oil and the motorcycle oil. When they can make an extra $4 a quart off you. For oil that’s in your bike for maybe 3K miles then changed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, well FIRST OF ALL!!!, i didn't say anything about me buying motorcycle oil $3.75 to$14.00 a qt. in fact only 2 times since I've been riding i have changed my oil with moto oil. i have just about always used 10w40 car oil with the same results as you. but i got to say i would never run that "Tech2000" walmart oil lol. i was just saying when i contacted the companies that's what THEY said.

Back about 2 years ago i use to build race motors (B16s, 18s and 20s). On the Dyno i have seen increased as much as 7hp on the top on when using Royal Purple over a generic brand. but that was at the 500+ level so what is that 1.4% haha. i would worry about running the good stuff unless i was racing and needed a little edge. im sure in Moto GP they use Walmart Oil.

Now what was that about the bike you got? 310RWHP? Lets see some dyno print outs

Mike Panic

for the record - im not simply repeating what ive heard - im telling you what ive seen first hand working in a bike shop. im not talking about street bikes w/ kids who clutch wheelies all day long - im talking about bikes ive seen w/ middle aged men on them, cruising across the states and logging 30-50k miles per year on their jap cruiser bikes that are seeing the clutch problems.

they are also not old bikes, they are all late models, no older then 4 years in most cases. again, not what ive heard - clutches ive actually seen taken apart, and from speaking w/ the service techs (mmi grads and yamaha/suzuki/honda/kawasaki/bmw certified) and who have been working in the industry a dozen+ years now.

we have a ton of royal purple at the shop too... know who uses it? big twin's w/ dry clutches... thats it. bottle for bottle we would easily sell 50:1 ratio of motul 3000 to 5100

don't assume that im simply repeating... having worked in the industry i can tell you what ive sold, ordered and seen in the shop...

busa1300

Hmm dyno charts how about this one it an old one but it is in the ball park, actual peak depends on the temp and humidity as you should know being an engine builder. My motor just a baby, I have been thinking about bumping it up to 400+. And the builder has made several that make 500+


PS runs on pump 93 Oct.

I know you can get a couple of Hp more out of a engine up on the top end with Red line and a couple other expensive oils the point is on the street you will never notice it. We ( the company I worked for) have test a few on engine (car) Dynos. There is also a difference in break down rates between the different oils in running motor.

Don’t get me started on MMI I know a few people who when there. I trust individuals not by where they went to school. Like I said I know a few people who went to MMI and I wouldn’t trust them to change the oil on a beater bike. It just like engineering degrees almost all engineers have them but that doesn’t make them anything other than someone who paid their money to the college.

I bet they don't use Royal purple in Moto GP.




Modified by busa1300 at 8:38 PM 1/1/2005

getnasty

please dont sya that dyno is from a bike! but if you ride a busa its very easy to do it.

busa1300

Yes it is my bike and it has over 30K mile on it, and still makes 300+ HP.

Gotcha

Busa1300, Do they clink together when you walk?

Son

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hks85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And isn't it spelled "disulphide"? hahaha no for real is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL you might be right, I just spelled it the way it sounded.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mag00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15w-50 seems a little thick </TD></TR></TABLE>Ever try 20w50 on a bike? Good stuff

Mike Panic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by busa1300 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don’t get me started on MMI I know a few people who when there. I trust individuals not by where they went to school. Like I said I know a few people who went to MMI and I wouldn’t trust them to change the oil on a beater bike. Modified by busa1300 at 8:38 PM 1/1/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

plz re-read what i typed: speaking w/ the service techs (mmi grads and yamaha/suzuki/honda/kawasaki/bmw certified)

mmi AND people who have been certified by major manufactors, that is to say, they never went to MMI, they just started turning wrenches like most of us and ended up at dealerships who sent them out for more training - one in particular that i worked w/ drag races very competitivly and has been working as a tech in the motorcycle industry for more then a dozen years primarly on sport bikes. i trust his knowledge that he has gained over the years, not what was read on a message board