Does anybody know why I cant push back the piston (caliper) using C-clamp? I did use a lot of force but it wont move. Is there a way to make this work? hit me up

 

front or rear?

 

the right front caliper wont move. Do I need to rebuild it?

 

what type of c-clamp are you using? try borrowing the caliper tool from a local auto parts store.. autozone, kragen...

 

all you need to do it just get a nice grip on it, and pull it against the rotor, it will push the piston back in, i have done it many times, just have someone watch the brake fluid reservoir because when you push the piston back in it will probally overflow

 

Are you doing it with the caliper on or off the hub/rotor ? Be sure the pressure is applied straight onto the piston. That is .......if the C clamp is crooked you can jam/bitchup the piston.

 

I just disconnected the brake line from caliper ( so I could press it in w/ full force) but no help. It seems that the piston is rusted, the rubber cover tend to stretched out. Anything else that I should try? In Haynes manual, it says that "If there is any scoring, rust, pitting or bright areas, replace complete caliper unit with a new one". Does this mean that I need to get a new set of calipers or should I get a rebuild kit? Hit me up


Btw, this is on accord 00 LX



Modified by ForceXVII at 8:46 PM 12/31/2004

 

Lets start over........what year / model civic ?
Your Haynes manual (mine does) has actual photos of how to place the C clamp without pulling the the brake assembly correct ?
You should not have to disconnect any brake lines !
Trying to force it in by hand may not work...
If you have the caliper assembly mounted you need a REAL LARGE c clamp. Puul the assembly and an 8-10 in. clamp will work. Be careful with the of the piston boot. Clean it (the boot) and put a silicon lube on it before you compress it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alotawatts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lets start over........what year / model civic ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you honestly that stupid.... Check what forum your in and then see what you've done wrong here

 

instead on disconnecting the brake line you should of loosened the bleeder valve to release pressure

 

I did loosen the the bleeder valve but the piston is jammed. I went to pepboys and they suggested to change the caliper (rebuilt for 50$) since the piston is corroded. HOnda dealer charges 100$ for each (brand new I assumed). Now should I get rebuilt or brand new? is there a performance/differences between those 2? thx

 

HONDA price is also for re-built one. They will not tell you rightaway, until when you place an order and then they will require a $70.00 as core deposit. Get is from Pep oys and you sould be fine. They only charge $18.00 as core deposit. At that low core deposit, just don't take it back, repair it and then, you will have extra pair for the future.

 

Since only my right caliper has problem, should I replace the left caliper? Thanks all

 

i had that problem i think mine was rusted.. but to make sure are you talking about the piston right ... the part that applies pressure to the break pads? if so i applied sum wd-40 and you have to rotate the piston with something flat counter clockwiseu can use whatever will fit in the big + in the center of the piston.. i used a flat piece of metal i found in my garage let me knwo if this helps sorry if im to late..

 

It is a good idea to replace both at the same time.

 

its a must to replace both side at the same time.. usually when you buy the pads they come with both left and right side sets

 

The seal piston boot is worn out along w/ rusted piston, so its a must to replace a new caliper. I'll get a pair of calipers for safetywise tomorrow morning. Thx all

 

I just installed the left caliper and now the car wont stop when brake. What should I do?

 

Re-do it blead breaks add new fluid..?

 

Does the brake function instantly after bleed/refill the dot3 or it takes awhile inorder to stop properly?

 

you should push the brake pedle down until you feel pressure again befor going out on the street if theres no pressure after several pumps.. i think theres sumthing wrong... make shure you bleeder screw is back on tight and check all your work.. are you using a manual?

 

You mean you installed the right caliper. Make sure your brake fluid level is good and bled a good amount to make sure all the air bubbles are out of the lines. Have a buddy stand guard at the brake fluid reservoir and refill as necessary. Have another buddy press and hold the gas pedal while you loosen and tighten the bleed valve to get the air bubbles out.

Also, you may need to bed the pads, but you should still be able to get some friction out of them from the get-go. Unless of course, you slabbered brake grease on the rotors and/or the pads!

 

Are you sure you arnt supposed to use a special tool to twist the piston in?
I know on a lot of newer cars you are but I have seen them be pushed in with a clamp even though they were supposed to be twisted. Does it have grooves where it looks like a tool coulod slide into the grooves?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hometheaterman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure you arnt supposed to use a special tool to twist the piston in?
I know on a lot of newer cars you are but I have seen them be pushed in with a clamp even though they were supposed to be twisted. Does it have grooves where it looks like a tool coulod slide into the grooves?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea thats what i thought.. or was trying to explain.. thats what was on my car.. they had tools to twist it but i just used a big flat piece of metal like a screwdriver to twist it .. it worked for me..